Top Strut Mount Bolt Thread Stripped

[Safari Wagon]

Over the last couple of months, the wagon has developed an almost clunking noise from the front left when going over certain bumps (such as the reflectors on the freeway between lanes). After looking all around underneath, I did not discover anything that may be causing the noise. When I looked under the hood and tried to tighten the strut top mount, I realized that the recently replaced strut had a stripped bolt. It is the bolt that is closest to the engine. I think that this may be causing the clunk and is probably not a good thing in general.
So before I replace the strut, I wanted to try some quick fix solutions. I am thinking of cutting the bolt some and forcing a smaller nut on it. What do you think? Is there a tool that will re-thread the bolt?
As always, thanks for the input!

[jtex2717]

Its called a Tap and Die Set....it will rethread the stud and allow you to put the nut back on....

you determine the proper size by using a good nut and placing it on a tap....

then you match the tap w/ the proper die and use the die to rethread the stud...

viola....you have a good stud...

Here is a link which will show you what they look like and you can find a set cheaper than this....just do your research.... good luck bro!

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...=1290200302210

[uibalnme]

You could just replace the strut mount. It is a separate piece. If you don't want to go that route you'll need a thread chaser kit. A tap and die set is used to make new threads. A thread chaser kit is used to repair damaged threads.

[Chris Crash]

If you're making a clunking noise, you probably need a new strut mount anyway. I would just replace it.

[Safari Wagon]

Great input!
I'll try to re-thread it and put a different nut on. Is that a 14mm bolt?
If that doesn't help the clunk, I will replace the top mount.

Will I have to remove the strut/spring assembly and compress the spring to take the top mount off?

Also, thread chaser looks like something to re-thread holes for bolts... tap and die looks more like it....

[Chris Crash]

Yeah, you need to compress the spring to replace the mount. Just look at the DIY for replacing struts, you pretty much have to do all the work as if you're replacing the whole strut with a new one. Kind of a bitch, but not too bad.

Shouldn't take more than an hour to just do one mount.

[Safari Wagon]

Can I re-thread the 14mm bolt to a 1/2 inch thread?

[jtex2717]

I am sure you could but I would try to stick w/ the 14mm...also the tap and die kit acts as a thread chaser when used on a stud/bolt already threaded.....

[Safari Wagon]

So I need to re-thread it with the same size? I thought because the threads are ruined I need to re-thread to a smaller size...?

[N/A Camry Sleeper]

Only if it's totally screwed (no pun intended) would you need to rethread to a smaller size. Try the correct size and see what you get - 99% of the time you should be OK

[Chris Crash]

Yeah you can probably use the same nut. Usually the threads just need cleaning/straightening, so you're not really cutting new ones...

[Safari Wagon]

The nut is spinning freely at the "bottom" of the bolt, so I think I may need to size down. Either way, I'll see if I can buy the set from Sears and return it....

[JohnGD]

That's a common problem with cheap mounts. Some of those bolts on cheap mounts are definitely not Grade 10. But a torque wrench should help. You should be able to get one from Harbor Freight for about $12 on sale.

See if you can use a washer or two under the nut. Then you don't need to cut new threads on a case-hardened bolt.

Originally Posted by Safari Wagon

The nut is spinning freely at the "bottom" of the bolt, so I think I may need to size down. Either way, I'll see if I can buy the set from Sears and return it....

[fenixus]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

That's a common problem with cheap mounts. Some of those bolts on cheap mounts are definitely not Grade 10. But a torque wrench should help. You should be able to get one from Harbor Freight for about $12 on sale.

See if you can use a washer or two under the nut. Then you don't need to cut new threads on a case-hardened bolt.

hmm, I have same problem as OP on one of strut mount studs on front passenger side. my struts are going bad anyways, so will be replacing those mounts and struts after Winter anyways ... but would like to patch it up for the time being if possible.

do you know what size the washer(s) should be (M10?) for that 14mm nut? I may go to local autozone and pickup a pack of proper size washer and attempt to quick-fix it for time being before I touch struts & mounts in Spring...

by the way, the torque (gen4) for those nuts is 59ft-lbs, for comparison center strut bolt/nut torque is 36ft-lbs (numbers per FSM, Suspension, front shock absorbers).

[JohnGD]

Should be M10. I think the -4 rule works down to 10mm socket and M6 bolts. I'm surprised they spec'ed 59 on such a small bolt however.

Originally Posted by fenixus

hmm, I have same problem as OP on one of strut mount studs on front passenger side. my struts are going bad anyways, so will be replacing those mounts and struts after Winter anyways ... but would like to patch it up for the time being if possible.

do you know what size the washer(s) should be (M10?) for that 14mm nut? I may go to local autozone and pickup a pack of proper size washer and attempt to quick-fix it for time being before I touch struts & mounts in Spring...

by the way, the torque (gen4) for those nuts is 59ft-lbs, for comparison center strut bolt/nut torque is 36ft-lbs (numbers per FSM, Suspension, front shock absorbers).