3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I replaced the head gasket in my 97 camry 5sfe at about 173,000mi. About two months later, I sprung a nasty oil leak, I am about to pull the oil pump off to replace that seal and o-ring. Am also going to replace camshaft oil seal. I really don't see any leakage around the crankshaft. My question is this : Should I just go ahead and replace the crankshaft seal anyways, while I'm in there replacing these other ones. I feel like if I don't, it'll go out and start leaking in another month or two after I do this job here. What do I do here ???
Well the FSM indicates if its removed ; (Replace).
I always like to change the seals when replacing something like that. Just because it's all apart, and if you change it now.. you wont have to worry about it later
I replaced the head gasket in my 97 camry 5sfe at about 173,000mi. About two months later, I sprung a nasty oil leak, I am about to pull the oil pump off to replace that seal and o-ring. Am also going to replace camshaft oil seal. I really don't see any leakage around the crankshaft. My question is this : Should I just go ahead and replace the crankshaft seal anyways, while I'm in there replacing these other ones. I feel like if I don't, it'll go out and start leaking in another month or two after I do this job here. What do I do here ???
Replace the seals, since they've probably all been there at the same time.
The Following User Says Thank You to zythr For This Useful Post:
+1. Change out all oil seals. Be careful not to scratch the shafts. Old seals don't have to hard to leak. They can leak and when removed still feel soft.
The Following User Says Thank You to JohnGD For This Useful Post:
Im trying to find the oil pump housing o ring and its a mofo. The dealer wants 18$ and no where else has it in stock. If you have time I would just order it all from rockauto and save some cash.
So far autozone has the cam seal for 6$, dealer has crank seal for only 10$ (autozone wanted 25...) and napa is supposed to deliver the oil shaft o ring to me for a whopping 2.79$.
Fel-Pro is the name for gaskets and seals. Autozone has the front crank seal set (including the oil pump o-ring) for $6.99. Were they trying to sell the *rear* main seal for $25? Because Autozone sells the rear main seal for $25.99 (National 716102). But Fel-Pro BS40427 is $10 online.
Yeah I just got back from advance and they had the Felpro front crank kit for 7$. Saved me a buncha money.
The seals are supposedly made in Mexico and Taiwan but the oil shaft seal is a national and my cam seal made by national is japanese (came in a fel pro box). But its fel pro so I know it isnt crapola.
The Felpro crank seal is ALOT wider then the jap seal I got from napa. We'll see which one fits.
I really like Fel-Pro because they are also a re-boxer for parts they don't make. They, like Timkin, seem to care what goes into their boxes.
So for many of the parts they're actually giving you OEM made in Japan! I also don't have problems with parts sourced elsewhere.
National is a part of Federal Mogul, the parent of Fel-Pro, so we often see National seals in Fel-Pro boxes as well.
IMO Fel-Pro =
Quote:
Originally Posted by carsrus
Yeah I just got back from advance and they had the Felpro front crank kit for 7$. Saved me a buncha money.
The seals are supposedly made in Mexico and Taiwan but the oil shaft seal is a national and my cam seal made by national is japanese (came in a fel pro box). But its fel pro so I know it isnt crapola.
The Felpro crank seal is ALOT wider then the jap seal I got from napa. We'll see which one fits.
Is it because the inner seal area? Probably the spring tension. I'd apply some assembly lube to the area so the seals don't start up dry, as the Fel-Pro instruction sheet says.
Quote:
Originally Posted by carsrus
The Felpro crank seal is ALOT wider then the jap seal I got from napa. We'll see which one fits.
Is it because the inner seal area? Probably the spring tension. I'd apply some assembly lube to the area so the seals don't start up dry, as the Fel-Pro instruction sheet says.
Yeah I meant as in the seal is the same diameter , but the fel pro seal is maybe 2.5 times the thickness the other seal I have. Ill see how much depth there is for it and lube it up with some bearing grease.
Do you think it would make anysense to replace the huge paper oil pump to block seal? Ive never seen anyone replace it, then again im crazy enough to replace the rotor since every single one ive done has a slight groove in it.
That can get involved as you need to remove the exhaust to get to the oil pan. But if the oil pan gasket and the pump-block paper gasket aren't leaking, then I don't think there's a need, even for preventative maintenance.
I'd spend the time to check valve clearances and change out the valve stem seals instead (special tools needed), and not trying to loosen rusted exhaust bolts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by carsrus
Do you think it would make anysense to replace the huge paper oil pump to block seal? Ive never seen anyone replace it, then again im crazy enough to replace the rotor since every single one ive done has a slight groove in it.
These seals have a metal flange on the outer diameter and most of its front. It's hard to get them out sometimes. Haynes manual suggested wrapping tape around the tip of a flat blade screwdriver. Others suggested drilling a hole on the seal and screwing in a machine screw. Then pry on the screw to get the seal out. Another is to grind a notch on the side (near the tip) of a common $1.5 3/16" flat blade screwdriver, so you can insert the wrapped tip, turn it slightly, and pull the seal out. Basically make your own seal puller, because the Mountain one is too big:
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Seal replacements
95 Camry
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