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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 11-22-2010, 05:23 PM   #1 (permalink)
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suggestions for getting bolts off fuel filter?

trying to get the fuel filter off but the bolts are completely locked on there. hosed em down with pb blaster a couple times and waited an hour but still no luck. and yes, im turning them in the right direction

try torquing any harder and im afraid ill rip the harness off. any other ideas?
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Old 11-22-2010, 05:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You have to use flare nut wrenches with a backup wrench holding the filter portion still. I think it is 14mm on the bottom nut and 17mm on the top (banjo bolt). I believe I actually had to use a 17mm 6pt 1/2" drive socket to break the top loose. I believe the backup wrench was a 19mm.
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Old 11-22-2010, 05:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Procedures should be in the FSM. If not, a haynes/chiltons manual is always a good investment to have too!
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Old 11-22-2010, 07:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Maybe let the dealer try it? Be careful of a twisted fuel pipe. Some say Toyota used a thread locker on the flare nut. Some say it's just corrosion or years of not removing it.

IMO a flare connection here is a stupid idea. A banjo bolt would be much better, but that would cost a few pennies more for Toyota. So a flare nut goes on there.

If you wrap some tape around the pipe near the flare and make a cup, maybe you can fill it with PB Blaster and let it soak. Otherwise PB just drains down.

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trying to get the fuel filter off but the bolts are completely locked on there. hosed em down with pb blaster a couple times and waited an hour but still no luck. and yes, im turning them in the right direction

try torquing any harder and im afraid ill rip the harness off. any other ideas?
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:34 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Soak in good penetrating oil - for at least a week.

It will come off.
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
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19mm (3/4'' will do as well) regular supporting wrench on filter body and 14mm flare nut wrench on the nut position them so you can grab them with one hand (or both whichever seems easier, clearance might be an issue) and "close them" (like scissors). make sure you positioned them right, remember that you are looking at the nut upside down, so counter clock wise will be actually clock wise when looking from the top.
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Old 11-23-2010, 12:34 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Like this $9.99 set:

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...set-99993.html

And a crowfoot with a torque wrench to tighten:

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piec...set-97952.html
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Old 11-23-2010, 05:53 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Yes to all of the above, but you'll not do this if you have to use one hand on the turning wrench and the other on the backup wrench. You'll have to block the backup wrench against the engine with a piece or two of 2x4, then use both hands on the turning wrench.
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Old 11-23-2010, 07:47 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fenixus View Post
19mm (3/4'' will do as well) regular supporting wrench on filter body and 14mm flare nut wrench on the nut position them so you can grab them with one hand (or both whichever seems easier, clearance might be an issue) and "close them" (like scissors). make sure you positioned them right, remember that you are looking at the nut upside down, so counter clock wise will be actually clock wise when looking from the top.
I used this exact method fenixus described to break the bottom free. For the top, I secured the backup wrench against the fenderwell and used a 6 point 1/2" drive socket to break the banjo bolt loose (17mm I believe). But the bottom was the hardest I will readily admit.
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