3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I had problems taking out the filler plug. So, I took it to the local Toyota dealer who agreed to loosen the filelr plug. After I go there, they took it inside and came out saying that differential is shared with transmission. Here I am, tried taking out the filler plug for 3 hours on Saturday and Toyota guy tetlling me that his 8 year old mechanic says that it is a transaxle type or whatever. I asked the service guy then why is there a separate drain plug next to the transmission drain plug.
So, is there any truth to what the Toyota service guy is claiming? Mine is a 2001 4 cylinder (5S-FE) Camry. Do I have a separate differential ATF which needs to be drained separately from the transmission?
I had problems taking out the filler plug. So, I took it to the local Toyota dealer who agreed to loosen the filelr plug. After I go there, they took it inside and came out saying that differential is shared with transmission. Here I am, tried taking out the filler plug for 3 hours on Saturday and Toyota guy tetlling me that his 8 year old mechanic says that it is a transaxle type or whatever. I asked the service guy then why is there a separate drain plug next to the transmission drain plug.
So, is there any truth to what the Toyota service guy is claiming? Mine is a 2001 4 cylinder (5S-FE) Camry. Do I have a separate differential ATF which needs to be drained separately from the transmission?
Thanks.
I'm 99.9% sure the nice young folks at Toyota got it wrong. Your diff fluid and your trans fluid are separate...they share no common passage, and your diff fluid will almost always be much cleaner than your trans fluid...
Yep, it is separate on the 5S-FE's. Every last one of them, all the way to the end of their production run. So, the mechanic was full of **it. He just didn't want to mess with having to remove the fill plug and fill it...Lazy a**! I did it on a lift with a 5 foot cheater pipe. A steady turn, pop, and all was good. Look in the stickies, the procedure is there in all it's glory.
The V6 shares the sump with the transmission/differential...2.2's don't. Moral of the story, do it yourself.
the capacity is about 2 3/4 quarts. I use the Dexron IV ATF, once a year, on both the trans and diff. Easy Peasy. Reach up behind the exhaust to find the fill plug, and use some clear hose. When it dribbles out of the opening, you're done. Close her up. Drink a cold beer. Make sure you use a 10 MM hex socket on the drain. SAE will be too loose, you risk rounding the drain plug if you use that.
The thing that really, really bugs me about this is, the technician could have done some serious damage by being so un-informed. If he thought the diff and trans shared the same fluid, then he could have thought that by filling the diff, it would overflow into the trans - or, he might have drained the diff and trans, and only filled the trans fluid, thinking that would take care of the diff - basically destroying the car.
When the dealership makes HUGE mistakes like this, they don't fess up. Instead, they would claim the diff failed not due to lack of fluid, but because it was going bad anyway. Next thing you know, they're asking 3000 to install a new trans for you.
Most of us here know better, but alot of people who drive these cars are like my 65 year old mother - who not only doesn't know, but totally would trust whatever they said.
Granted, not every dealer is like this, but I get a call nearly every week from a friend of relative with stories like this...totally unprofessional, boarderline thievery.
Most of us don't have a lift but an extension pipe will be necessary. I used one that would fit between the garage floor and the engine, about a foot. I'd recommend a six point wrench to avoid rounding the bolt head. I had to use a 17mm line wrench. Don't use the pipe to re-tighten.
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
Most of us don't have a lift but an extension pipe will be necessary. I used one that would fit between the garage floor and the engine, about a foot. I'd recommend a six point wrench to avoid rounding the bolt head. I had to use a 17mm line wrench. Don't use the pipe to re-tighten.
I did a 2000 and a 2001 I4 diff fluid change without ever lifting the car up or driving on ramps. I removed the filler plug, which was never removed before so it was very tight, from the top. I used an old 3/8 in ratchet with a 17mm socket on the plug and positioned the ratchet handle in a slightly upward angle near the master cylinder. I then used a 2 foot long pipe resting one end on the end of the ratchet handle so that the pipe was vertical. I then gave the top of the pipe a good whack with a hammer and the plug broke right loose. Then I removed the drain plug with an allen wrench using the same pipe for mechanical advantage.
You never remove the drain plug without first loosening the fill plug. You could be in deep trouble if the fill plug gets rounded off and you are stuck without diff fluid!
The Following User Says Thank You to hzt30 For This Useful Post:
I think the mechanic was worried that he is going to round off or shear the filler plug. I have been spraying this plug with penetrating oil for about 3 hours off and on on Saturday. I am going to try what hzt30 suggested and get it from the top. I may try a local shop too...
I think the mechanic was worried that he is going to round off or shear the filler plug. I have been spraying this plug with penetrating oil for about 3 hours off and on on Saturday. I am going to try what hzt30 suggested and get it from the top. I may try a local shop too...
a fellow board member (thanks ajkalian) posted this, and after he did, I bought some
I haven't had the chance to use any yet, but when I do, I'll report back.
I had been using a much more crude version of the above (heating the surrounding area, then putting a piece of ice on the bolt) for years with great results - I think the loctite will work much better.
I've learned not to question any mechanic about the advice and DIY given on T/N. I had my favorite mechanic tell me: "your car DOESN'T HAVE a differential, those are for trucks".
As for removing the filler plug, chances are differential on most cars has never been changed. You have to use WD-40/SEA FOAM/etc. and then use a hammer to loosen it up by hitting on the top of the plug. Same with the drain plug. They are VERY hard to remove the 1st go, but I've done it twice so far and its not as hard.
I dont know why people think it shares the same with the transmission. There is a diagram on turbo-ninjas...and matter of fact, the transmission dipstick even SAYS to check the level of the DIFFERENTIAL on from the filler plug hole.
and matter of fact, the transmission dipstick even SAYS to check the level of the DIFFERENTIAL on from the filler plug hole
----believe it or not, that's exactly what i told the service guy....these guys treat us like we know nothing (of course i don't, but all you guys know better for sure).
i really like htis loctite idea. hope that freezing won't break the nut itself!?!
I asked the service guy then why is there a separate drain plug next to the transmission drain plug.
.
what did he say?
Sometimes, the techs will walk you out to the garage and let you look at the car back there.
The hard part too about filling, is you have to use a fuel hose and slowly wait for the differential to fill up. Its one the hardest fluids to change, simply because there's no normal fill thing at the top of the engine. You have to climb under, get dirty, and risk having some of the fluid spill out while you're doing it. Too much for the average maintenance schedule LOL.
again, i am at 90K and i want to change this fluid somehow so that i can take my car for another 100K. don't know how long or how many miles this ATF will last. any ideas?
Not sure why people are having so many problems with the diff drain plug? I've done 5 or 6 of them and didn't strip any of them or have trouble removing them. Yes they can be very tight, but if you remove the air box and a few other small things in the way, you can get a ratchet or a wrench from the top, and use a cheater bar. With a 2 foot or longer bar, the amount of leverage easily removes the bolt. It helps of course to have a quality wrench or socket.
As for the dealer not knowing about the diff being a separate unit, a while back I got into an argument with a transmission shop about it. The tech there insisted up and down and sideways the unit did not have need to be drained and filled separately. It took a lot of convincing! Makes you wonder how many cars they should have changed out the diff fluid in, and didn't.
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