3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
This is more detailed than the front strut install, as I took more pictures.
Tools:
12, 14, 19 mm deep sockets
Hammer
14 mm wrench
19 mm wrench
Allen keys
Pry bar
Jack up the car, block the front wheels, and put on jack stands. Remove the wheels.
Remove the brake line 12 mm bolt and set it out of the way.
Spray some PB blaster on the two 19 mm bolts/nuts. you'll need it. Remove the two 19 mm bolts/nuts. You might need to hold the nut with the wrench as you hit the bolt with the socket. If it gets stuck, hammer it out. I had to pull the torch out because my 2 gallon compressor and air gun just weren't cutting it...it had to refill the compressor at LEAST 6 times, then I got the torch and then it came off just fine.
Remove the stabilizer bar/end link (?). This is a bitch. You gotta put a 14 mm wrench on the nut, then the allen key in the middle to keep it from spinning. Hint: Hold the wrench and turn the allen key (turn the key as if you were tightening it)
Remove the rear deck from inside the car. There's a DIY on here how to do that, so I won't explain it. Then remove the 3 12 mm nuts up top. The strut should fall out, not too far though so don't worry about catching it.
Now compress the spring and take it all apart. You can reuse the mounts/rubbers if you really want. I did. No big deal.
Compress your new spring, and then set the insulator on the strut, then set the new spring on the insulator. The shoulder will fit the end of the coil.
Now, pay close attention to this part. On the strut rod, there's a key. Notice the shoulders. On the strut mount, there's a groove for the key. Make SURE these are splined together. You'll know it's together when you spin the mount and the strut rod spins with it.
Make sure the one single bolt by itself is in line with the front of the strut. You can see the straight line here.
Put the 19mm nut on the strut rod, and decompress the spring. Do it a little bit each side, switching until it's off. Now that you have a projectile-looking thing, get a quick action shot.
Put the strut back in the car, getting the top 3 12 mm nuts on first. Then get the 2 19mm nuts on.
Then the brake line. Then the stabilizer bar. You might need to jack the hub assembly UP to get the bar in place.
Torque everything. 12 mm nuts are 39. Middle 19 mm nut is 26. Bottom 19 mm nuts are 188.
Put the wheels back on and torque to 76.
Bam. You're lowered. Sexy. Give it a week or two to settle out, you'll notice it's uneven. My passenger front side is like 3 fingers, drivers front is 1.5 fingers, and rears are still 3 fingers. It just needs to settle in.
Thanks dude. I can't wait for it to all settle out. Should be a little lower.
But hoooooly crap did the new struts help so much. The car is so much tighter and doesn't wander, and takes corners like a pro. Still need new wheel bearings though...
Craaaazy stuff. I loved both your DIY's.. though they made the job seem like it only takes an hour or two. This is definitely the DIY I'll be referring to when I do my struts/springs.
So as you can see, Eibachs aren't the LOWEST drop, but they're still pretty low. You will still scrape with Eibachs and new struts. But the H&R's are a bit lower.
Sometimes I scrape my taurus lip. Sometimes my muffler (it hangs down lower than stock). The setup is pretty stiff so I doubt I'll run into issues rubbing the fenders... though maybe taking a sharp corner at high speeds you could?
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