Wiring Power Ports

[97ToyCar]

Since I occasionally take a trip in the Cammy on long drives, I was thinking I would run 2 additional power ports for use with my thermoelectric coolers. One is very small (holds a 6 pack) and is used for sodas and small sandwiches, and the other is my larger cooler (40 quart) for milk and bigger items.

The bigger cooler will be in the trunk. What I want to do is to have a master switch to control both. I would install the switch for that in one of the empty switch blanks on the driver's side, next to the rheostat for the dimmer. The existing power port under the radio will be used for my sat radio and GPS.

The one for the smaller cooler will be inside the car, I was thinking I could install that in the rear of the center console box above the cup holder for the rear passengers. I don't know if I should drill through that or not, but I want everything to look nice.

I want to completely isolate the power for this away from the car's wiring altogether. I had a very bad experience with that on my 85 Corolla, and ended up having to put a replacement dash harness in.

I figure that 15A of power should suffice. I will install an inline fuse at or near the battery.

Does anybody have any ideas of what size wire to use, and a possible schematic as to how this will wire up? I don't need to have a nuclear meltdown should something go wrong. Everything will be soldered and shrink wrapped for security. What type of switch can be used? I would prefer to have an illuminated switch to verify if the circuit is on or off.

Thanks for any suggestions.

[Mister_Perkins]

Originally Posted by 97ToyCar

Since I occasionally take a trip in the Cammy on long drives, I was thinking I would run 2 additional power ports for use with my thermoelectric coolers. One is very small (holds a 6 pack) and is used for sodas and small sandwiches, and the other is my larger cooler (40 quart) for milk and bigger items.

The bigger cooler will be in the trunk. What I want to do is to have a master switch to control both. I would install the switch for that in one of the empty switch blanks on the driver's side, next to the rheostat for the dimmer. The existing power port under the radio will be used for my sat radio and GPS.

The one for the smaller cooler will be inside the car, I was thinking I could install that in the rear of the center console box above the cup holder for the rear passengers. I don't know if I should drill through that or not, but I want everything to look nice.

I want to completely isolate the power for this away from the car's wiring altogether. I had a very bad experience with that on my 85 Corolla, and ended up having to put a replacement dash harness in.

I figure that 15A of power should suffice. I will install an inline fuse at or near the battery.

Does anybody have any ideas of what size wire to use, and a possible schematic as to how this will wire up? I don't need to have a nuclear meltdown should something go wrong. Everything will be soldered and shrink wrapped for security. What type of switch can be used? I would prefer to have an illuminated switch to verify if the circuit is on or off.

Thanks for any suggestions.

You are going to need a DC to AC converter if you want to run differently from the harness plug.


heres a diagram for you that I made:

[97ToyCar]

Mr. Perkins,

Thank you so very much for your assistance. I would like to point out that both of my coolers are 12VDC, and do not require the use of a converter. I have wall warts for AC power in hotel rooms should I need to use them that way.

Can you re-do your document? The second interior power port will need to branch off of the main circuit, so both will be actuated by the dash switch. For clarity, I want to run a single separate power line directly from the battery, and by pass the vehicle's harness. I should be able to run both power ports from that single feed, and have them controlled by the switch.

Thank you very kindly!

Dave

[Mister_Perkins]

Sure , no problem

heres the updated diagram for you:


Really easy. Run a wire from the battery to a fuse block, then run two wires out of the fuse block going to one pin on the switch. The center pin will be the power switch that goes to each cooler. The outside pin will be your illumination side of the switch


Some switches you buy will actually have the diagram on the side like the following :

Click the picture for a link to buy it

[LynchburgCSI]

And i'm supposed to be the wiring expert. Lynch approved. You could also just wire in two female cig outlets.

[mspringer]

Not to be a jerk, but the way the wiring diagram is drawn, you will eventially melt the switch, as all the amperage runs through it. I know from experience.
You need a relay. Use the switch you want to install to trigger the relay, and then the power will run through the relay to the port. It will work better.

Also, as an alternative, you could use an accessory switched wire (something that is only on when the key is on) to trigger the relay, and eliminate the switches altogether - its simpler that way, and the ports will be on when the key is on.

Oh, as to the gauge wire needed - I'd use 10 gauge, it would be overkill, and its pretty inexpensive and easy to work with. You could get away with a lot thinner, but I prefer to err on the side of caution...

[LynchburgCSI]

Those switches are rated for higher amperage. I do prefer to use relays and smaller switches that can't handle high amperage, though. Just two different ways of doing things. BOTH are fine.

10 gauge is overkill too, IMHO. 12 gauge is fine for normal in car wiring. I'm pretty sure that the OEM in car wiring is actually 14 gauge for most sub-30 amp circuits, too.

[Pvt-Public]

Not to be a jerk, but the way the wiring diagram is drawn, you will eventially melt the switch, as all the amperage runs through it.

Just use a rocker switch rated at 30 amps or more. i got a couple lighted rockers (30 amp) at wal-mart for about $3 ea.

[Mister_Perkins]

Originally Posted by mspringer

Not to be a jerk, but the way the wiring diagram is drawn, you will eventially melt the switch, as all the amperage runs through it. I know from experience.
You need a relay. Use the switch you want to install to trigger the relay, and then the power will run through the relay to the port. It will work better.

Also, as an alternative, you could use an accessory switched wire (something that is only on when the key is on) to trigger the relay, and eliminate the switches altogether - its simpler that way, and the ports will be on when the key is on.

Oh, as to the gauge wire needed - I'd use 10 gauge, it would be overkill, and its pretty inexpensive and easy to work with. You could get away with a lot thinner, but I prefer to err on the side of caution...

There are many ways to wire switches.

Relays work
Fuseable links work
Switched powers (ignition switch) work

I've never had problems with melting switches. just make sure the amperage is correct for the wire / switch. You probably melted the switch because you were running too high of an amperage wire to a switch that wasn't rated for it.

Here is a diagram for switched power with relays

[mspringer]

NICE Diagram with relays!!!