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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 11-27-2010, 10:09 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Different types of rotors for rear disc brakes?

Alright so I'm wanting to change out my rear disc brake rotors.. they're so thin, especially compared to my front disc brakes. What options are there? I know I can get slotted and drilled, but I'm thinking more along the lines of making it thicker, like how the front ones are. What are my options? Thanks!
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Old 11-27-2010, 10:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The only thing really is to go back to stock thickness. If they were any thicker, the pads wouldn't fit.
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Old 11-27-2010, 11:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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There's no way to build thickness so only building diameter?
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Old 11-28-2010, 12:30 AM   #4 (permalink)
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There's no way to build thickness so only building diameter?

It's in the works - I have candidate rotors for front and rear but have not found suitable hats yet. Will try to use Lexus or Camry V6 OEM rear calipers for these. ALso recently found out that these rotors CAN be turned down on a regular brake lathe with the right bits (less diameter but same thickness). The penny in the photo is 19mm in diameter for a reference



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Old 11-28-2010, 06:10 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Alright so I'm wanting to change out my rear disc brake rotors.. they're so thin, especially compared to my front disc brakes... but I'm thinking more along the lines of making it thicker, like how the front ones are.
Why?
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Old 11-28-2010, 06:57 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by iovaykind View Post
Alright so I'm wanting to change out my rear disc brake rotors.. they're so thin, especially compared to my front disc brakes. What options are there? I know I can get slotted and drilled, but I'm thinking more along the lines of making it thicker, like how the front ones are. What are my options? Thanks!
I'd second the 'why' question.

Brake rotors are heat engines; they convert energy of motion into heat by applying friction. On most every car, the front rotors do bulk of the work, and with weight transfer and our cars' nose-heaviness, they have to; if the rears 'get too good' you'll have rear lock-up or frantic ABS pulsing.

Now, if your rear rotors are showing signs of overheating, you've uprated the fronts, or have other front/rear balance and capacity issues, then upgrade of the rears may be in order. But for anything short of track work (and the Camry is quite ill-suited to that), upgrade to the front rotors is by far the more appropriate enhancement.
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Old 11-28-2010, 09:49 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I'd second the 'why' question.

Brake rotors are heat engines; they convert energy of motion into heat by applying friction. On most every car, the front rotors do bulk of the work, and with weight transfer and our cars' nose-heaviness, they have to; if the rears 'get too good' you'll have rear lock-up or frantic ABS pulsing.

Now, if your rear rotors are showing signs of overheating, you've uprated the fronts, or have other front/rear balance and capacity issues, then upgrade of the rears may be in order. But for anything short of track work (and the Camry is quite ill-suited to that), upgrade to the front rotors is by far the more appropriate enhancement.
The Camry is an excellent track car - it's just that most people use it for its intended purpose - the mild mannered family sedan. Same class of car as the Impala and Fusion on the American side, but with much more trust from the American and worldwide public in terms of longevity and reliability

I agree with what you stated about the brakes' performance front vs rear, maybe the OP was wondering why the rotor thickness was different between the two. Cost of production is likely the biggest factor - it probably doesn't need to be any thicker for the rear since the front is the workhorse in most cases. The brakes I'm working on are for ultra-longevity and higher performance with a weight savings as well - not suited for everyone I know but at least the option will be there once it's completed
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Old 11-28-2010, 09:50 AM   #8 (permalink)
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that penny looks like its floating lol
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Old 11-28-2010, 11:00 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by N/A Camry Sleeper View Post
The Camry is an excellent track car - it's just that most people use it for its intended purpose - the mild mannered family sedan. Same class of car as the Impala and Fusion on the American side, but with much more trust from the American and worldwide public in terms of longevity and reliability

I agree with what you stated about the brakes' performance front vs rear, maybe the OP was wondering why the rotor thickness was different between the two. Cost of production is likely the biggest factor - it probably doesn't need to be any thicker for the rear since the front is the workhorse in most cases. The brakes I'm working on are for ultra-longevity and higher performance with a weight savings as well - not suited for everyone I know but at least the option will be there once it's completed
Sorry - just don't buy ANY FWD vehicle as 'an excellent track car'. Lots depends on the class you're running in, but all the things that make a Camry a pleasant daily driver conspire to make it so-so (at best) at the track. Like trying Steeplechase with a Paso Fino - possible, and some people might do it, but there are far better choices.

Maybe prejudice on my part - but for track use where the carrying the last .2 MPH into a corner is the difference between winning and losing, a FWD car just isn't a good tool for the job. Even weight distribution, ability to power out of corners, and 'nerve-endings-connected' response are far more important than good isolation and comfort.
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Old 11-28-2010, 11:38 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Frodo65, even though I agree with you on the Camry's inability to perform as a track car, I would tend to disagree with your negative view of FWD cars for use on track. It really depends on what type of racing it is. It is not uncommon for FWD cars (like Miatas and CRXes) to win autocross races, even when competing against much faster and sportier cars (like Boxters and Corvettes).
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Old 11-28-2010, 02:02 PM   #11 (permalink)
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...It is not uncommon for FWD cars (like Miatas and CRXes) to win autocross races, even when competing against much faster and sportier cars (like Boxters and Corvettes).
The Miata is actually rear wheel drive, and depending on setup, can be a capable track car. Some owners have even swapped Ford 5.0 Mustang drive trains into Miatas.
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Old 11-28-2010, 02:07 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Woops... You are right.
Civics, crxes, integras
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Old 11-28-2010, 04:34 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Getting back on topic, rear rotors are "thin" because they are not vented like the fronts, which do the majority of the work. The easiest and cheapest upgrade is using the slightly(1/2 inch) larger wagon or es300 rotors. To be honest, the stock discs are more than adequate. If you want to improve performance and longevity, buy quality(brembo or similar) blanks and pads(such as hawk or EBC).

P.S. If you live in a rust belt, look for ones that are powder coated. Mine are and haven't rusted in over 3 years of salty new york winters.

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Old 11-28-2010, 07:12 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I wanted to make the rears vented like the front basically to match it so it would look aesthetically pleasing to the eye. I didn't have any intentions on increased performance though if there were an option to have lightweight rotors I would so go for it just cause it would help MPG that much, if at all.

A BBK for the rear would be great, as I already have materials for BBK in the front. I'd only do the fronts though if I could match the rears, don't really like that the front rotors are so much bigger than the rears.
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Old 11-28-2010, 07:35 PM   #15 (permalink)
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The rear discs are smaller and thinner to begin with. The fronts are always heavier because the extra work they do. Therefore the thickness needs to be compared to the new spec, not to the front discs.

If you're happy with the braking power, I'd say no need to modify. Just get new Centric rotors (with Akebono ceramic brake pads) when needed. C-Tek should be fine, or get the Premium if you want powder coated paint on the hub area.


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Alright so I'm wanting to change out my rear disc brake rotors.. they're so thin, especially compared to my front disc brakes. What options are there? I know I can get slotted and drilled, but I'm thinking more along the lines of making it thicker, like how the front ones are. What are my options? Thanks!
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