Problem with crankshaft rotation

[TCGOwner]

I'm working on a 99 Solara with the 4-cylinder 2.2 liter engine/
I replaced my water pump and decided to replace the timing belt at the same time. I removed the spark plugs and aligned the camshaft to TDC for #1. But I'm having a problem turning the crankshaft pulley to align the #1 cylinder to TDC. It rotates clockwise smoothly for about 140 degrees with just a socket wrench but then hits a hard stop. I broke the head off one of my cheap 3/8ths sockets trying to force it to rotate. I was able to force the crankshaft to turn using a 1/2" breaker bar but it hit another hard stop after about another 140 degrees. I hesitate to force it again. The mark on the crankshaft pulley is currently sitting at the 15 mark

Side notes;
When the water pump broke, I noticed it in time so the temp never went into the red.
I did rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise trying to align it at the 0 mark.
I don't know if that messed something up but at this point i can't change what i did.


My question is what is the crankshaft getting hung up on?
I know the valves and pistons couldn't have hit because of the engine design but I'm out of ideas as to the problem.
One of my friends suggested it might be the oil pump but i don't know the internals of the engine well enough to say.

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by TCGOwner

When the water pump broke,

First, you should never have forced the engine to turn. You may be in very serious trouble now. Please explain, "when the water pump broke"?

[ross1]

Originally Posted by TCGOwner

I'm working on a 99 Solara with the 4-cylinder 2.2 liter engine/
I replaced my water pump and decided to replace the timing belt at the same time. I removed the spark plugs and aligned the camshaft to TDC for #1. But I'm having a problem turning the crankshaft pulley to align the #1 cylinder to TDC. It rotates clockwise smoothly for about 140 degrees with just a socket wrench but then hits a hard stop. I broke the head off one of my cheap 3/8ths sockets trying to force it to rotate. I was able to force the crankshaft to turn using a 1/2" breaker bar but it hit another hard stop after about another 140 degrees. I hesitate to force it again. The mark on the crankshaft pulley is currently sitting at the 15 mark

Side notes;
When the water pump broke, I noticed it in time so the temp never went into the red.
I did rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise trying to align it at the 0 mark.
I don't know if that messed something up but at this point i can't change what i did.


My question is what is the crankshaft getting hung up on?
I know the valves and pistons couldn't have hit because of the engine design but I'm out of ideas as to the problem.
One of my friends suggested it might be the oil pump but i don't know the internals of the engine well enough to say.

If the engine was running nothing should be preventing it from turning over now, you are probably just encountering compression. Remove the spark plugs and ditch the cheap tools.

[manyyotaman]

"If the engine was running nothing should be preventing it from turning over now, you are probably just encountering compression. Remove the spark plugs and ditch the cheap tools."

I'll 2nd that!

[Mister_Perkins]

I third this ^^

Originally Posted by Stillrunning

First, you should never have forced the engine to turn. You may be in very serious trouble now.

You are incorrect sir

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by TCGOwner

I removed the spark plugs

Originally Posted by ross1

you are probably just encountering compression. Remove the spark plugs and ditch the cheap tools.

Originally Posted by manyyotaman

I'll 2nd that!

If a he can't rotate the engine with a breaker bar, plugs in or out there is something else wrong. It's not compression, especially on a 4 cyl'd.

"You are incorrect sir"

So it's advisable to force an engine without knowing why it's hung up? Maybe you would tell him to get a bigger breaker bar?

[Mister_Perkins]

wow your a douche bag





====


If you really think theres a problem, Pull the oil pan off and inspect the rods / mains

[TCGOwner]

Stillrunning:
The water pump began leaking from the weep hole. felt like a bearing was broken when i pulled it.
I am able to turn the crank with my breaker bar but it takes more force then I want to use again.


ross1 and manyyotaman: As i said in my first post,

Originally Posted by TCGOwner

I removed the spark plugs

So the issue is not compression.
I had also removed the cam cover to see if a piston was hitting a valve before I found out it was a non-interference engine.

Mister_Perkins:
One of my friends suggested pulling the oil pan as well so that will probably be my next step

[Mister_Perkins]

I missed that in my first post, so I am sorry for that.

Like I said, you may want to pull the oil pan off and inspect the pan / connecting rods / main bearings for metal particles. If you are having that much trouble, something may have broke internally.

[TCGOwner]

Originally Posted by Mister_Perkins

something may have broke internally.

Yeah that's what I figured. At this point I was just trying to figure out where to start that would be the least painful for me and my wallet.

[Stillrunning]

Nothing mechanically to restrict rotation unless you dropped/broke a valve, the car is in gear and not in neutral, the starter gear is engaged and binding, or something in the bottom end is binding. Your choice what to do next. I'm guessing the timing belt is not installed yet? Dropping the pan may be easier start than pulling the head?

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by Mister_Perkins

wow your a douche bag

How old are you?

[TCGOwner]

Stillrunning: I have not installed the new belt yet.
The car is in neutral and the battery is disconnected.
I'm not sure if the starter is engaged but i do not think so.
The crank turns very smoothly and I can turn it by hand but only for the ~140 degrees between where it gets hung up.

[Stillrunning]

I'm not sure what you'd see from the bottom if the Solara has the balance shaft. Maybe someone else can help here. It doesn't sound like you had a catastrophic heat failure and that you can rotate freely 140* does not sound like bearing failure. Are you sure you didn't drop something down the plug hole accidentally? Can you rotate the cam shafts easily? I'd rotate to the binding point then try to turn the cams, then back off the crank 45* or more and try the cams again.

[fenixus]

'99 5s-fe solara is EXACTLY same as '99 5s-fe camry (calif specs). there should be nothing holding the crank from normal rotation.

OP, make sure you put the tranmission gear selector in Neutral (use override button under plastic cover).

if car was standing for a long time you MIGHT be fighting with lack of oil lubrication inside engine, but there should be nothing seized at this point ... unless rust buildup froze the valves.
with the spark plugs out, you are really only fighting with valve springs tension, nothing else... really...

you may want to try squirting some starter fluid down the spark plug holes and trying to rotate the crank clock wise again. mine was a little clicking when oil had dripped back down to pan after I returned to disassembled car next day. it went away after 2 full revolutions of the crank, but I did not have any "hung" crank problem at all.

if you didn't drop anything down the spark plug hole then I would say there is NOTHING holding it mechanically as stated above.