3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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2000 Camry LE and a Plethora of Problems - HELP =[
Hello all. My Camry LE has been nothing but trouble since last May. Tonight I have had it up to here, and need any advice I can get, because neither Toyota or my local mechanic have been able to target the problem. I'll give a time line of sorts:
Background: Ever since I took ownership of the car in 2008, I noticed that it had a few quirks. One of them was if I left it sitting for awhile and the weather got hotter or more humid, the car would crank for maybe a second and jump to 500RPM and when I released my hand from the key it would fire up normally. I swear it was like a jackrabbit wanting to take off. You could barely hear it crank before it fired. I actually thought it was kind of cool until I started having real problems.
The other quirk it has is a loud ticking noise it sometimes makes when idling if it's really cold outside. It only happens when the engine's all warm and it's idling at 500 where it's supposed to. The noise sounds like it's coming from somewhere on the passenger side of the engine bay. It never really bothered me until now, so more on this later.
May 2010 - Started experiencing cold starting problems if the car was left for more than 8 hrs. Car would crank, fire up to about 300-400RPM, but not hold idle. Usually took 2 or 3 tries a piece. The cranking sounds pretty nasty when this happens kind of like a baby screaming for its mother. Comical, but that's how I can describe it. I knew it was probably the IAC, so I went ahead and got it replaced. No luck. This problem happens when the car sits through varying temperatures. I did further reading and suspected moisture on the distributor cap but nothing has been done with that.
June through August 2010 - Took it back a number of times. Work done included cleaning the throttle body and IAC a few more times, replacing the PCV valve, and inspecting the valve cover to inconclusive results. Toyota insisted that they started it as directed and did not encounter any problems, yet when I started it in the parking lot of the service center, it went ballistic again.
With the hot weather, more symptoms developed. On top of the cold starting issue, other times it would just sputter for 5 or 6 seconds then the idle would smooth out. When cranked, it would fire but you could see the needle fluctuate then eventually go up to around 1100 where it's supposed to be.
When it started to get cooler around September, symptoms diminished, occurring only sporadically.
Now that we've had a few frigid nights, the ticking has come back but louder than ever. Also when starting in the morning it sounds like the engine is straining for the first 20 seconds of idling. Mechanic adjusted the timing belt to hopefully resolve the ticking but this was unsuccessful. I didn't even bother asking about the straining noise.
Thanksgiving break has passed, and my cold starting symptoms have resurfaced and now they are even worse. I haven't been as active so the car has been sitting for longer periods for the past few days but tonight was the worst. I knew I was going to have problems so I got it started eventually and drove it in order to give it a kick in the behind. Hopefully I'll be able to leave for school no problem in the morning...
So that's my overly long description of what is going on. If more history helps, yes the car has been maintained properly according to the sludge recall. It has not been through anything crazy, just a lot of commuting before I took ownership (father drove it 100miles a day before passing it down to me with 140,000. it now has 160,000)
If I need to clarify anything, I will gladly do so. I need advice ASAP on the starting problem and the ticking noise, but most importantly the starting problem! Thanks.
Check the starter, battery, fuses, relays, alternator, wiring. All that COULD potentially have little problems causing occasional starting problems. Also, what engine?
Check the starter, battery, fuses, relays, alternator, wiring. All that COULD potentially have little problems causing occasional starting problems. Also, what engine?
I am bringing it in tomorrow. I was going to have him replace the ignition wire set, plugs, and distributor cap and see if symptoms improve. Sorry about that. It's the 2.2L 4cyl. 5S-FE is the number I believe.
Quote:
Originally Posted by carsrus
Check the main air hose form the filter to the throttle body for cracks.
After starting does it run and drive fine?
For the most part yes. Sometimes it will idle low around 400RPM once warmed up but it only lasts for 2 or so stops at traffic lights. I read that it's just the ECU recalibrating so I didn't really worry too much. I guess I should also note that the tranny clunks into overdrive 75% of the time especially between 45 and 50mph. I have to brace myself for the shift, it's pretty bad. My first gear shift can be rough sometimes, but I have become so in tune with the car that I can apply certain pressure to the accelerator to make it shift smoother. On rainier days it shifts horribly rough on all 3 gears though. I figure this had nothing to do with my starting problems so I omitted it.
How many miles on the car? Which motor? how old is the timing belt? Sounds like my 5-sfe did just before I changed it. The noise I was hearing was the belt slack hitting the plastic cover. How did your mechanic adjust the timing belt, as most timing belt tensioners are not an adjustment item they simply have a set position for "engaged" and act as a way to release tension for service... I say timing belt stretch is your culprit. I had more than a tooth of stretch between the crank and cam pulleys on the belt I just replaced.
How many miles on the car? Which motor? how old is the timing belt? Sounds like my 5-sfe did just before I changed it. The noise I was hearing was the belt slack hitting the plastic cover. How did your mechanic adjust the timing belt, as most timing belt tensioners are not an adjustment item they simply have a set position for "engaged" and act as a way to release tension for service... I say timing belt stretch is your culprit. I had more than a tooth of stretch between the crank and cam pulleys on the belt I just replaced.
160,000. 2.2L 4cyl 5s-fe. Timing belt is 3.5yrs old and was replaced @ 100K. I'm not sure of his methodology but will check up on that. I just find it weird that it only ticks when it's cold out. My main concern is the starting problem.
On rainier days it shifts horribly rough on all 3 gears though. I figure this had nothing to do with my starting problems so I omitted it.
Thats a tell tale sign of an electrical short.
Plugs and wires might be a good start but it the car runs fine there not gonna solve much more than likely.
Open up the hood at night and see if you have any blue electrical arcing going on. Take a spray bottle and mist the plug wires and the coil pack to see if you can get some blue arcs.
Plugs and wires might be a good start but it the car runs fine there not gonna solve much more than likely.
Open up the hood at night and see if you have any blue electrical arcing going on. Take a spray bottle and mist the plug wires and the coil pack to see if you can get some blue arcs.
Never heard of that before. Will check this out. I may also have my mechanic do this tomorrow. What I don't understand is the plugs and wires were replaced at 100K.. thought I'd get a lot of life out of them.
Seeing as you've got 60k on your timing belt, water pump, idlers, plugs and wires, I would replace them.
I'm going to start with plugs, wires, a new coil pack and the distributor cap this week. I'm a student and don't exactly have the money for a new timing belt or water pump yet. I'll keep everyone updated though. If anyone has any further opinions I'd be glad to hear them, but thank you to everyone who has given advice so far!
Oh yes, I forgot to mention that I can produce video footage of all of this stuff happening.
One of them was if I left it sitting for awhile and the weather got hotter or more humid, the car would crank for maybe a second and jump to 500RPM and when I released my hand from the key it would fire up normally. I swear it was like a jackrabbit wanting to take off. You could barely hear it crank before it fired. I actually thought it was kind of cool until I started having real problems.
BTW, you can find the instruction to check the resistance vs temperature on Autozone's free repair guide (w/ registration). A voltmeter is cheap from Harbor Freight.
2. If you already replaced the IAC then skip this step. Otherwise the known IAC problem is also the one to check: 5sfe IAC Removal (lots of pictures)
Quote:
Originally Posted by ergo17
The other quirk it has is a loud ticking noise it sometimes makes when idling if it's really cold outside. It only happens when the engine's all warm and it's idling at 500 where it's supposed to. The noise sounds like it's coming from somewhere on the passenger side of the engine bay. It never really bothered me until now, so more on this later.
Use a mechanic's stethoscope and listen on the cylinder head just below the valve cover. Or is the ticking coming from lower engine block.
Be careful of hot and moving engine parts. See if the ticking is coming from there. You may need a valve adjustment.
May 2010 - Started experiencing cold starting problems if the car was left for more than 8 hrs. Car would crank, fire up to about 300-400RPM, but not hold idle. Usually took 2 or 3 tries a piece. The cranking sounds pretty nasty when this happens kind of like a baby screaming for its mother. Comical, but that's how I can describe it. I knew it was probably the IAC, so I went ahead and got it replaced. No luck. This problem happens when the car sits through varying temperatures. I did further reading and suspected moisture on the distributor cap but my mechanic seemed to ignore my concern for it and this has not been replaced to date.
Do check the ECT sensor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ergo17
June through August 2010 - Took it back a number of times. Work done included cleaning the throttle body and IAC a few more times, replacing the PCV valve, and inspecting the valve cover to inconclusive results. Toyota insisted that they started it as directed and did not encounter any problems, yet when I started it in the parking lot of the service center, it went ballistic again.
The dealer always tells you that when they're completely lost. "It's normal" = they're clueless.
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