3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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When I opened my driver side door today after getting home, the dome light did not go on right away. I shut it, and tried again, it looks like it flashes really quickly, then goes off, then comes back on again shortly.
I tried my other doors and they worked fine, and the line works fine when I use the keyless entry.
Bad sensor? Is it worth fixing it? It doesn't seem too bad...just one of those annoying little things lol.
My 96 does the exact same thing, sometimes it lights, sometimes it doesn't. I found it easier to not worry about it. I'll check my 96 and see if it's cleanable. It may just be corrosion on the contacts preventing them from fully closing.
Dome light? who needs a dome light when you've got... TRACK LIGHTING!
There has been a thread on this awhileeeee back. I can't find it now but simply what you have to do is remove the black rubber thing that's been talked about, spray some wd-40 under it.. and it will work well again. The black rubber piece is getting harder over years of use, so that's why it does that. If you can either get the black rubber piece (a new one so it isn't already hard) or if you can wiggle it out and somehow make it less hard, it will work just fine
^+1. Most of the time that works. Dust builds up in the switch and it starts working/failing intermittently. Remove the switch, hose it down with WetDog40 while pushing the switch in 'n' out a bunch. That usually brings 'em back to life.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
open your door up, and underneath where the U shaped Locking mechanism is (Chrome) there will be a Black Looking Oval.
When the door closes it pushes that switch closed, which in-turn turns the dome light off.
I read this with interest because I had the same problem, kinda. The problem I had was when I'd pull into the garage and didn't close the door all the way I'd end up with a dead battery the next day because the stupid dome light would be on all night. So fortunately there is a switch to turn off the dome light and I did that and forgot about it. If I needed the dome light on, I turned it on manually. I hate that automatic crap.
So after reading your post I have to admit that I didn't know that that rubber thingie was a switch, but I just thought it was a rubber bumper to cushion the door when you slammed it. What a lame place to put a switch, getting banged every time you slammed the door. Who came up with that dumb idea. As I remember them they used to be by the hinge, so when you closed the door, the arm that held the door gently closed the switch.
Anyway I took out the switch by on the driver front door, and was going to swap it to the driver rear door, so I took out the driver rear door switch, and then thought to myself, why not swap it with the passenger rear door, so I took that one out. I noticed as I took out the rear passenger side door switch the dome light started to flicker, and when I removed the switch it went out. Uh oh, maybe a wiring problem in the trunk, I thought.
Scratching my head, I went over to the driver front door, connected the switch, and went to screw in the bolt, and the chime came on, and so did the dome light. Hmmmm, so I unscrewed the bolt, and the chime stopped, and the dome light went out. I went over to the rear passenger side, and screwed in that bolt, sure enough the dome light came on, but no chime. So I connect all the switches except the driver front and just the dome light comes on, no chime. But when I finally connected the driver front switch and screwed in the bolt the dome light came on, as well as the chime.
Looks like I discoverd a secret way to disable the chime racket when you put the key in, and have the door open by just disconnecting the driver side front door "slam the door switch".
After having so much fun, I just put everything back together, and put the dome light back in manual mode and went and had lunch.
Anyway I took out the switch by on the driver front door, and was going to swap it to the driver rear door, so I took out the driver rear door switch, and then thought to myself, why not swap it with the passenger rear door, so I took that one out. I noticed as I took out the rear passenger side door switch the dome light started to flicker, and when I removed the switch it went out. Uh oh, maybe a wiring problem in the trunk, I thought.
Scratching my head, I went over to the driver front door, connected the switch, and went to screw in the bolt, and the chime came on, and so did the dome light. Hmmmm, so I unscrewed the bolt, and the chime stopped, and the dome light went out. I went over to the rear passenger side, and screwed in that bolt, sure enough the dome light came on, but no chime. So I connect all the switches except the driver front and just the dome light comes on, no chime. But when I finally connected the driver front switch and screwed in the bolt the dome light came on, as well as the chime.
Looks like I discoverd a secret way to disable the chime racket when you put the key in, and have the door open by just disconnecting the driver side front door "slam the door switch".
The door switches have one wire going to them, and ground to the car body via the bolt. So when the bolt is removed, it's an open circuit regardless of the switch's open/closed status; no light, no chime.
With the keys in the ignition, only the front door opening activates the chime. And I'm pretty sure it's just the driver's door that does.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
yeah, and the drivers side door is connected to the integration relay thats where the chiming comes from. The other doors are connected to the dummy light for the Door is ajar light
The rubber cover is a separate part from the switch. If you remove the switch you can avoid getting any WD40 on it, which I think would be good to do. And REALLY hose it down, getting the WD40 into the switch's innards as much as possible. Might wanna do it over some old rags or newspapers or something, it's messy. If you don't have WD40 dripping off your elbows, you didn't use enough.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
But I thought the problem would insist with the switch...but it's the rubber part?
Oh well, I'll give it a shot if the lighting issue persists, it's been fine today. That saying always bugs me...if it ain't broke don't fix it...rofl I always fix things not broken and I break them.
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Ah the PITA dome light!
95 Camry
AUTO to MANUAL Swap Guide (3rd Gen) - 
Scamry
So fortunately there is a switch to turn off the dome light and I did that and forgot about it. If I needed the dome light on, I turned it on manually. I hate that automatic crap. 
What a lame place to put a switch, getting banged every time you slammed the door. Who came up with that dumb idea. As I remember them they used to be by the hinge, so when you closed the door, the arm that held the door gently closed the switch. 
Linear Mode
