DIY : HELP 92-96 5sfe CAMRY WONT START

[Mister_Perkins]

So your vehicle wont turn over and was working fine before...

Lets try to get it working.

First thing first, your going to need a digital Multimeter with continuity a Test light, and a Feeler Gauge set

Start by checking the easy stuff fuses and relays. Fuses are easy.. Visually inspect them. The relay you will need a multimeter to check it. You should have continuity on one side and no continuity on the other side. If that checks out, move onto next step. If not, replace the starter relay and try to start the car.



When the ignition switch is turned to START position, current flows from terminal 50 to the coil of the solenoid and the plunger is pulled by the magnetic force of the coil. When the plunger is pulled to the left, the contact plate of the plunger allows current from the battery to flow directly from terminal 30 to the motor, and the starter rotates. When the engine is running and the ignition switch is returned to ON, the magnetic force of the coil disappears and the contact plate of the plunger is returned to its original position by the return spring. Battery voltage no longer flows from terminal 30, so the motor stops

We will start by confirming we are getting a start signal. Disconnect the Large black harness plug on the drivers side wheel well (Yellow arrow). Pull the plug apart and probe the Black/White wire with the test light and ground it to a good ground on the body. Have a helper turn the key to the start position and confirm your Test Light lights up.



If you have voltage, move onto the next step. If not, repair the harness or replace the ignition switch and try to start it up

Next, we will go ahead and check the Neutral Safety Switch to make sure its working properly. Using the table below probe each pin listed making sure the gear selector is in the position you are testing.


If that checks out, move onto next step. If not, clean or replace the Neutral Safety Switch with a known good NSS and try to start the car.

Next, we will check the wiring between the ECU and the Neutral Safety Switch.

The park/neutral position switch detects the shift lever position and sends signals to the ECM. The ECM receives signals (NSW, 2 and L) from the park/neutral position switch. When the signal is not sent to the ECM from the park/neutral position switch, the ECM judges that the shift lever is in the D position.

So check NSW 2 and the body and NSW L and the body. If they do not have continuity there is a break in one of those wires. Trace it and replace it. Try to start the car.



all of these tests above are for the actual CRANKING aspect of the starting system. If your car cranks over, but just wont throw a spark lets move onto the ignition system.
<strong>
If your car still wont crank, try replacing the starter. I will have another write up on checking the starter and rebuilding one but not in this DIY</strong>


The ignition system is fairly simple as far as its setup..

First, check all the fuses make sure the harness connectors are tight before moving onto next step.


Check the spark plugs first.. PLEASE. I've seen this many times when it ends up being fouled or bad spark plugs causing a starting problem.

First, if you the plugs are good and still dont have a spark:

CHECK RESISTANCE OF HIGH–TENSION CORD (Spark Plug Wires)
Maximum resistance: 25 kohm per cord

If thats bad, replace wires .. if good move onto next step

CHECK POWER SUPPLY TO IGNITION COIL AND IGNITER
1. Turn ignition switch to ON.
2. Check that there is battery voltage at
ignition coil positive (+) terminal.

If thats bad Check wiring between ignition switch to ignition coil and igniter. If good move onto next step

CHECK RESISTANCE OF IGNITION COIL
Resistance: Cold-------------------Hot
Primary 0.36–0.55 ------------0.45–0.65ohm
Secondary 9.0–15.4 kohm ---- 11.4–18.1 kohm

If thats bad, replace the ignition coil. if good move to next step

CHECK RESISTANCE OF SIGNAL GENERATOR (PICKUP COIL)
Resistance: Cold Hot G1 and G–125–200ohm 160–235ohm
G 2 and G–125–200ohm 160–235ohm
N E and G–155–250ohm 190–290ohm

Also check the air gap on the distributor:
Air gap: 0.2–0.5 mm (0.008–0.020 in.)




If that checks out, move onto next step.. If bad replace Distributor Housing Assembly

For Reference:



Check the IGT Signal from the ECM




If Every Single thing checks out Try another Igniter.


I will post up more pictures and more information as it comes



ALSO:

If your vehicle is equipped with an aftermarket remote starter with an Ignition Kill, Disconnect the remote starter first and try to start the car before tearing into anything

[LynchburgCSI]

THANK YOU. This should cut down on new threads about this. Stickying.

[Mister_Perkins]

That's what made me want to write this up .. lol. Very common thread that pops up

[Bdub215]

to make this simple: in a crank no start verify: Ignition Fuel, and Spark (cars that have immobilizers add an Ign signal). worst case scenario its an ECM. I think the DMM takes to long and if you know where to look you can usually find the problem quickly then use the DMM to check should you need to.

Ignition: Distributor, Cap, Rotor
Fuel: injectors, lines, pump, connections,
Spark: plugs, Wires, connections
fuses
ECM
EGR (seen it happen)

i threw in the EGR because if it sticks open i believe the car wont start. if i missed something add it.

[Osagecoon]

Thanks for going to all the work to write this up. Really helps pinpoint the trouble. Too bad I didn't know how to find it when I first looked for threads on this subject.

[Mister_Perkins]

No problem! It may have no came up in the "Stickied threads" because its on the (To Sticky) List..

Hope that it helped you out

[chronoti]

tl;dr

but from the little bit, good stuff, this can be applied to most any car with the exception of specific parts like the wiring loom by the booster you can check for voltage,

but alot of the underlying principles are the same

actually if you add the info for the distro less system you can include up to 2001 ..... not much changed

[cintronfamily]

Great post! I have a 96 4cyl. Camry and have trouble with it today. It was running fine and then the engine stalled. I try to start it and after 10 mins. it started but it ran for just a few more miles and died again. I check everything like suggested above and the only thing I found odd is that when I turned the key (before starting the engine) I heard an intermitent clicking noise coming from the distributor. Also the tachometer needle jumps intermittently... I checked and there was a spark coming from the coil (all this with the engine off). I measure resistance for the pick up coil, the Crankshaft sensor and the coil (primary and secondary) and everything is in between specs. I suspect the Igniter is sending voltage to the coil without reason... but why? Is there a way to test the Igniter? Could it be the ECM...?

PS I started the engine and ran the car for 1/2 an hr. without problems... but I'm still concerned it will happen again.