Power windows don't work after door replacement - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Maim Menu · 12-16-2010, 03:44 PM

'98 Camry

Got plowed by a 18 wheeler this morning so got a day off work to get myself a rear driver side door.

Found a salvage yard door with everything including the glass and inside trim, luckily it was even the same color inside and out so I replaced it and everything is fine the door lines up, opens and closes, power locks work but power windows stopped working in the entire car

I know for a fact they were working right after the accident, but somehow with the new door, power windows went out altogether, none work on any door.

- No switch will get them up or down.
- Every single accessory in the car works
- The 25amp "door" fuse isn't blown, I even got a new one just to be sure.

I had trouble getting to the connector so I cut the wires from the old door to remove it then I could free up the connector and proceed with the rest of the work.

Now I'm thinking I might have shorted something out doing so, or else the door might've wiggled shut during replacement and the wire from the new door got cut or something.

My main questions are :

- What in the world could've been shorted out cutting the wires that would control every window in the car if the fuse isn't blown!?!?

- I know that a problem with the driver door might affect every window in the car, but I only worked on the rear door so wtf is going on?

I have read the thread about fixing up the wire harness and might try to test it out but in the meantime I'm stuck with an open window in the freezing cold

04yfz · 12-16-2010, 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maim Menu

Got plowed by a 18 wheeler this morning so got a day off work to get myself a rear driver side door.

Found a salvage yard door with everything including the glass and inside trim, luckily it was even the same color inside and out so I replaced it and everything is fine the door lines up, opens and closes, power locks work but power windows stopped working in the entire car

I know for a fact they were working right after the accident, but somehow with the new door they don't work.

- No switch will get them up or down.
- Every single accessory in the car works
- The 25amp "door" fuse isn't blown, I even got a new one just to be sure.

I had trouble getting to the connector so I cut the wires from the old door to remove it then I could free up the connector and proceed with the rest of the work.

Now I'm thinking I might have shorted something out doing so, or else the door might've wiggled shut during replacement and the wire from the new door got cut or something.

My main questions are :

- What in the world could've been shorted out cutting the wires that would control every window in the car if the fuse isn't blown!?!?

- I know that a problem with the driver door might affect every window in the car, but I only worked on the rear door so wtf is going on?

I have read the thread about fixing up the wire harness and might try to test it out but in the meantime I'm stuck with an open window in the freezing cold

Did you check all the fuses? A "Door" fuse might just be for power locks. I know on the GEN 4 the window fuses and relays are behind the coin holder, is there another fuse box on the GEN 3 you can check? Most likely it's somewhere in or under the dash on the drivers side.

Maim Menu · 12-16-2010, 06:55 PM

I only checked that one because I was in a pinch after the new door was installed. There are other fuses in the engine compartment but none were labeled for windows or doors...

My car is a Gen4, '98. Sorry I didn't mention it

Chris Crash · 12-16-2010, 07:37 PM

I would pull the door panel off, pull the motor out and bench test it.

If it works, then start tracking wires!

hzt30 · 12-16-2010, 07:40 PM

With a meter check with the ignition SW turned on and with the power window master SW (Driver’s) in UP position, check for voltage at TERMINALS 10 and 11 of the power window master switch. If no voltage on terminals 10 & 11, then check your power source. This goes through a 30A fuse to the power relay. If there is voltage on terminals 10 & 11, then check for voltage on TERMINAL 1 of the master switch which then goes to TERMINAL 1 of the power window motor. The other side of the motor is the ground side.

Maim Menu · 12-16-2010, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hzt30

If no voltage on terminals 10 & 11, then check your power source. This goes through a 30A fuse to the power relay.

Wich fuse is this?

Is this fuse located in the car or in the engine compartment?

hzt30 · 12-17-2010, 09:06 AM

The power fuse is located on left side of steering column by the coin tray. It controls the following:

Door Lock Control
Moon Roof
Power Seat
Power Window
================================================== =============
Power window does not operate (ALL)---- Power Door Lock does not operate:
1. POWER M–Fuse (I/P J/B No.1)
2. Power Main Relay (I/P J/B No.1)
3. Wire Harness
–
–
Power window does not operate (ALL)---- Power Door Lock is normal:
1. Ignition Switch
2. Power Window Master Switch
3. Wire Harness

Maim Menu · 12-17-2010, 10:12 AM

Judging by this information, it seems that my master switch is fried.

Every single electric equipment is functionning perfectly except power windows...

I'm going to check fuses and relays again, then start testing the master switch.

96ToyoCam164K · 12-17-2010, 12:52 PM

Just curious, was your door stuck shut? And plower by an 18 wheeler? I got hit by a Cougar and I cant even get the thing to budge! Someone here did send me an email with help using a come-along...is that what you had to do?

Maim Menu · 12-17-2010, 01:08 PM

Not at all.

Friggin miracle if you ask me. The front door is just slightly scratched and the quarter panel has scratched paint. He was just coming out of a stop so the speed wasn't too high but still, I got dragged a good 15 feet and that's all that happenned...

The door was destroyed but I could still open it and slam it shut, the new door fits perfect.

I got pretty lucky.

04yfz · 12-17-2010, 10:00 PM

That sucks about the switch, hopefully you can pick one up cheap.

Btw, while you try to sort this thing out, I would recommend a piece of wood to keep your window propped up if you need to drive the car or it's kept outside.

Maim Menu · 12-18-2010, 12:58 PM

Problem solved, it was a fuse.

The fuse is a big, 30 amps pink fuse wich is located at the bottom right of the interior fuse panel, it is not documented on the fuse chart at the back of the little coin tray door.

This fuse is only for the power windows apparently, since the power locks and everything else worked perfect.

Chris Crash · 12-18-2010, 01:07 PM

Nice! How'd you find the fuse?

Maim Menu · 12-18-2010, 01:17 PM

Well since I didn't have my Haynes manual, I wanted to pull every fuse out of the panel and inspect it just to be sure.

There are bigger fuses on that panel that aren't listed on the chart and I pulled them out as well.

I noticed that one looked fried so I swapped it with the one from my father's camry and the windows worked.

I took this picture from another TN thread, I don't think it's from a Gen4 Camry but the fuse is the same, you can see it at the top right. You just pull it straight out with a pair of pliers.