3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I was going to take of the caliper to remove the brake disc (rear). So it's not only the caliper, but also the thing that holds the brake pads. That thing is mounted with two bolts, severely rusted, got one of but the other bolthead lost its shape and got rounded of. it was so reshaped by rust.
so it won't come of
i was thinking, go to the yunk yard, pick up a new one + bolts, and then once i have an extra i can drill the old bolt out and just put the "new" one in afterwards.
Wondering if anyone knows if the "thing" (brake plate holder) is the same on a front brake disc as on a rear. If so, that would make it easier to track one down at the local yunk yard, since most camrys have drums rear.
Also, wondering if i have a regular caliper model... It only has one mounting bolt (mounting on to the "plate holder"), that's at the lower side. The upper part is a "slide on" thing... a pin on the plate holder, that you slide the caliper on to. I thought that I had seen in a manual that the caliper actually has two mounting bolts...
That "plate" you're talking about is the caliper bracket. Each rear caliper mounts with a bolt on one side, and a slide pin on the other, that's how they all are for these cars. As for removing the caliper bracket bolt, soak the rusted bolts with penetrating oil, and let them sit over night. The next day use a breaker bar, and an impact socket to remove the bolt.
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As uibalnme said, it's called the "caliper mounting bracket". Toyota refers to it as the "torque plate" in their manuals. The fronts and rears are different, so you would need to get one form a car with rear disc brakes. I would see if I could get the part number off the old bracket first (even without removing it) and then go to the salvage yard to match the part number with one you can find. As far as penetrating oil, do not use WD-40. It's good for many things, but is not a good penetrating oil. Use a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster.
i second the PB blaster. use the next size smaller socket and hammer it on. if that fails, try using the largest pair of vicegrips and heat the bracket with a torch to expand the metal while wrenching on the bolt.
blue wrench if all above fails to heat the bolts up. Just make sure you let it cool completely before trying to break it loose or you could snap the softened metal
Yup, this should do it. Try it before cutting or drilling anything.
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I usually use pd blaster, but was out of it so i was using a less agressive one. Vise grips wont work because the metall is folded up around the bolt, so you really can't get it on propperly. As for breaker bars, the bolt is just to rounded so it will just slilp in any case. the dammage is allready done. Tried to hammer on a one size smaller socket, but that didn't really work for me, wasn't sure if that was the right way to go or if that would just mess it up more.
yea, but the bolt is surounded by metal. That is the edge of the plate is folded up going around the larger part of the bolthead. the only way vise grips would fit would be facing the bolthead with the tips, grabing it with the tips and that's not going to do much...
don't know iff you get the picture, but they wont go on snug, with the side facing the bolthead.
Okay well since you've destroyed the bolt and cannot get vise grips on it.. The only other option you have is to go to the parts store and rent an Easy Out kit and take it out
Well technically your not supposed to hammer it on. Its designed to fit on it and once you start to loosen it, the fins grip onto the stripped bolt and spin it out.
Make sure to inspect the kit before renting it. Most people thing of the Easy-outs as the ones you drill a hole first and use a drill bit looking bit to spin it out
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