94 Camry cranks, won't start

[NewToCamry]

1994 Camry LE 2.2L automatic with 158K miles on the odometer. A couple days ago, I ran an errand two miles away, returned to the house for two minutes, and the car died 200' from the driveway. It was pushed back into the driveway so I've spent a frustrating weekend trying to learn about Camrys and no spark causes.

What I've done:
- found and read parts of the factory service manual (it's huge)
- tested for spark (none)
- tested the spark plug wires for resistance (less than 25K)
- tested the ignition coil for voltage (12V to + terminal)
- tested the ignition coil for resistance (.7, higher than specs)
- tested the secondary coil for resistance (200 for G/GE, 400 for NE/NE)
- tested the EFI relay (no continuity between 1 & 2, replaced)
- tested the EFI fuse (removed, continuity good)
- tested the ECM (E1 to ground--good, B/B1 = 12V)
- watched the rotor turn (which means the timing belt is okay)
- checked distributor/rotor (no cracks, sanded contact points anyway)

I've searched these forums and, given that I have multiple sources (the FSM, various threads, various gurus, etc) and few seem to match on how to proceed, I'm frustrated at myself for so many paths to failure. I'm familiar with my 88 Honda Civic but this 94 Camry (which I've driven for three months) is beyond my skillset (probably not but I'm frustrated).

I know I have no spark, I know that the coil is slightly out of spec (.7 vs .36-.55) but, when I tested a new one, I also got .7 resistance. I know that the mantra is "spark, fuel, and air" so, until I do get spark, it's not going anywhere.

Suggestions?

Thanks.

Mike
P.S. I've got a mechanic lined up tomorrow but, jeez, this HAS to be solvable, right?

[Mister_Perkins]

your ignition coil is .7 higher than Spec. I would replace it

Also, did you check the Air gap on the distributor?

Also, have you checked the IGT Signal from the ECM? If you dont have a signal to the igniter try another igniter and re-test

If all else fails, Try a known good ECM and re-test.

You've done everything I would have done so far, the couple things I listed is some more things I would do

[NewToCamry]

Thanks for the quick reply. Saturday I took the coil to a parts store along with my multimeter. The new part also gave me .7 between the terminals. Since I can't return electrical parts and I wasn't sure how close the resistance had to be, I didn't buy the new one.

The air gap on the distributor is about .024 (.6mm), also within specs. I tried the IGT signal from the ECM (probing the fifth hole in the harness and ground) but got nothing but 0V during cranking. I'm not sure about my ground, though. I found the ground by testing continuity between the - post of the battery to the right-side shock absorber bolt and, from there, to a screw on the glove box. Since I have continuity between these three different points, I'm figuring the interior ground is good. But...I'm also lying on my side, turning the key with one hand and holding the probe to the screw/ground. If the test fails, it could be my fault as well.

Thanks.

Mike

[NewToCamry]

Also, is there a way to see a spark with the distributor cap off? I think I read that somewhere this weekend but I've chased so many leads and read so many threads I can't be sure what I remember.

Mike

[Mister_Perkins]

Since you werent getting a signal on IGT, Check wiring between ECM, distributor
and igniter, If that all checks out .. try another ECU (Check each wire for continuity from one end to the other). If it still wont start, replace the igniter and try to start.


I haven't heard of having the cap removed to test for spark, because the rotor is going to be spinning spreading your voltage in a circle. It would be virtually impossible to confirm your getting voltage to the rotor.

[NewToCamry]

...Check wiring between ECM, distributor and igniter... Okay, this is near my limit of knowledge. How do I check wiring? Do I trace them back from the ECM harness to the distributor/igniter? Do I test continuity from the ECM harness to the other end? I know the FSM has schematics of where they run but, given that it ran fine beforehand, what is the likelihood of wiring failing 200' from the driveway versus the ignition coil? If the coil failed, does it usually fail immediately or does it exhibit early signs?

As for testing with a known good ECM or igniter, the only chance of that is buying new (meaning not likely since it would be ~$600). I don't know anyone with a Camry or a parts car. I could visit a junkyard but I'd be taking chances.

As for watching spark on the distributor cap, I think it was having one wire removed from the cap and having a probe from a test light approach the open hole. Kind of hard to do with only two hands.

Thanks again. I may take a chance on a $30 coil and see what happens.

Mike

[Mister_Perkins]

Originally Posted by NewToCamry

...Check wiring between ECM, distributor and igniter... Okay, this is near my limit of knowledge. How do I check wiring? Do I trace them back from the ECM harness to the distributor/igniter? Do I test continuity from the ECM harness to the other end? I know the FSM has schematics of where they run but, given that it ran fine beforehand, what is the likelihood of wiring failing 200' from the driveway versus the ignition coil? If the coil failed, does it usually fail immediately or does it exhibit early signs?

As for testing with a known good ECM or igniter, the only chance of that is buying new (meaning not likely since it would be ~$600). I don't know anyone with a Camry or a parts car. I could visit a junkyard but I'd be taking chances.

As for watching spark on the distributor cap, I think it was having one wire removed from the cap and having a probe from a test light approach the open hole. Kind of hard to do with only two hands.

Thanks again. I may take a chance on a $30 coil and see what happens.

Mike

Yeah, if it were a wiring issue it would more than likely be to doing an engine swap, or messing with the wiring.

A Way to check for spark out the distributor is to hook 1 spark plug into an unplugged wire (still connected to dizzy). Place the plug onto something metal and look for an arc while cranking.

If something were to fail such as the coil, it would more than likely just go all of a sudden. Either that, or you would start having a random misfire or weird feeling electronics.

As far as the ECM and Igniter, I have both of them. Since your car is Pre-OBDII The parts I have off a 92 will fit no problem and came off of a running vehicle. PM Me if your interested

[NewToCamry]

Okay, before I go and buy a coil, can you ease my mind a bit? My coil showed .7 ohms resistance between the two terminals and when I tested a new one at the store, it showed the same thing. If a new one isn't within specs, why should I buy it if my existing one shows the same results? The conclusion of every coil test says "replace it" but my overly logical mind can't accept that answer if a new part gives me the same reading.

Am I overthinking this or should this convince me to buy Toyota OEM instead of some aftermarket brand?

Thanks again.

Mike

[Mister_Perkins]

Originally Posted by NewToCamry

Okay, before I go and buy a coil, can you ease my mind a bit? My coil showed .7 ohms resistance between the two terminals and when I tested a new one at the store, it showed the same thing. If a new one isn't within specs, why should I buy it if my existing one shows the same results? The conclusion of every coil test says "replace it" but my overly logical mind can't accept that answer if a new part gives me the same reading.

Am I overthinking this or should this convince me to buy Toyota OEM instead of some aftermarket brand?

Thanks again.

Mike

This is a rundown on the resistances and voltages for our motors. If anything is above or below the Specs, the manual indicates to Replace.

[NewToCamry]

As most of you expected, it was the coil. I tested it at the store and it, too, gave me .7 ohms resistance. The parts guy said he'd take it back if it didn't work so I bought it. It sort of fired right up (kind of rough), I put the breather hose back on, and it ran better. I may have to adjust the timing a hair (I lined the distributor up with my two scratches) but will give it a few miles to work through the gunk it's collected.

Thanks for the forum, thanks for the replies, and thanks for saving me several hundred dollars in shop fees.

Mike

[Mister_Perkins]

Great to hear that you figured it out.

When checking items, even if its new but not within Factory Spec... return it

Glad you saved some money by DIY