Rear Main Seal leak

[CLIFF]

I am new to the Camry world and this may have been covered here before. But here goes, I have a 1994 Camry with 232,000 miles and in excellent condition except for the rear main sela leaking. Yes i checked everything else. I have a lot of time and common sense, but not a lot of money. Would it be worth my time and trouble to put the engine and transmission out of the car, replace the rear main seal and re-install the same engine? Thanks

[JohnGD]

First check all the engine gaskets you can and make sure the crankcase doesn't have a vacuum leak. A lack of vacuum means the oil can leak out more easily. For example, how's the PCV valve and grommet? Hardened by now? Then try the easy solution first, like using the Lucas Engine Oil Stop Leak:

http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...tid=7&loc=show

You can find it at your local parts stores. The leak should dry up after a while if the real main seal was just hardened and not worn beyond the Lucas fix.

If you want to pull the engine later be prepared to do a complete timing job, replace all gaskets that you can reach and maybe even check the valve clearances and do the valve stem seals while at it.

I don't know what assortment of tools you have. Sears is running a sale now so it's a good time to pick some up. For other owners who are starting, it's a good time to pick up a 106 or 154 pc mechanic's tool set and add from there instead of buying small sets at a time.

Originally Posted by CLIFF

I am new to the Camry world and this may have been covered here before. But here goes, I have a 1994 Camry with 232,000 miles and in excellent condition except for the rear main sela leaking. Yes i checked everything else. I have a lot of time and common sense, but not a lot of money. Would it be worth my time and trouble to put the engine and transmission out of the car, replace the rear main seal and re-install the same engine? Thanks

[Chris Crash]

If you've got more time than money, which most of us do, then I would pull the engine out and do some heavy work. Seals, gaskets, timing belt, check your valves, etc. Pulling the engine really isn't hard. I can get the engine and trans out in under an hour now. And back in and running in another hour.

Everything else should also be relatively easy, just time consuming.

[George.]

Well as JohnGD states, you can go with a stop leak additive as an interim solution assuming you're not past the wear point where the goop just won't work but, with this many miles on it you're just delaying the enevitable. Expanding on what Chris says, the engine comes out fairly easy even if you've never done it before. So, if you have more time than money, I personally would pull the engine and replace the following at a minimum:

1) Rear Main Seal and associated horseshoe gasket
2) Front Crank Seal and associated gasket
3) Oil Pump Seal and associated o-ring gasket
4) Water Pump Gasket
5) Oil Pan gasket and oil pickup tube gasket
6) Valve cover Gasket

Assuming these have never been replaced before you are definately up for them to go out on you. The rear main seal is the prime indicator and once that goes the front will be there too with the oil pump seal.

As for the valves and other hardware toyota made a great engine and it's rare that you ever need to shim the valves or do much other major work that you'd need to do on a traditional (US) engine.

I just replaced items 1-5 as well as the two idler pullys in the timing belt this week and it cost me about $130. I didn't go cheap either, I used Felpro and Beck Arnley, not that they're top of the line but, there are some very cheap imitations out there.

My '93 4 cyl had just passed the 251,000 mark and the front Oil Seal was the first to go. I replaced all with the engine still in the car...VERY difficult but possible. If you have a lift, space and time I'd definately pull it to do this unless you like pain.

[Jimbello]

Is the rear main seal a 2 part seal? Or does it fit over the crankshaft flange?
I'm gradually finding and fixing the small oil leaks in my 94 2.2 ltr. Camry. I fixed the oil leak in the distributor by spacing the seal out with a copper washer. This meant that the seal then ran on a unworn part of the distributor shaft. The seal is in a hot zone and quickly turns hard then wears the shaft. I've been recommended to change my distributor seal and "O" ring every 30,000 klms or so to avoid this.
I hope I don't have to pull my engine and do the rear main!

Jim.

[1996camry]

Don't buy the product because you waste your money. It doesn't do the trick for you... It will do more harm than good...can clog up and mess your car up... If leaks, all you need to remove the transmission and leave the engine in the car.... You have to be careful...

Don't buy the product ...

[SilverSoarer]

^+1 The above poster is right.

Most Lucas products/stop-leak products are temporary - the problem goes away - but will come back eventually.

There is a polymer based no leak product that is better for the synthetic/rubber/elastomer seals - and it's proven effective.

It is called AT-205 Re-Seal and costs under $10 online - if the leak is minor - just top off.

The engineering standard for manufacturers is 1L (a little over 1 quart) per month of an oil leak is deemed acceptable.

As an aside -- on a leased 2012 Audi S5 with oil leaking 1L per month -- it is considered normal by Audi/VW.