What do you think about this method? - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

twodoorcamry · 12-22-2010, 06:16 PM

You Tube

for removing stuck rotors? I'm reffering to the technique with the bolts and nuts through the mounting bracket attachment holes (never mind everything else that the guy does). Seems clever, but for a camry I'm wondering if the plate that normally holds the bracket is strong enough to take the pressure... It looks alot beefier on the ford in this video... don't want to bend it.

Also wondering, Is it really advisable to bang like that on the rotors if you're not planning to replace them? seems like they might get deformed.

Here's another video on the same theme

You Tube

***LynchburgCSI*** · 12-22-2010, 06:32 PM

I'm not watching a 8 minute video on something this simple. But here's my 2 cents. Camry brake rotors have two bolt holes in the hat. Drive in the right size bolt, and the rotor is forced right off. Easy easy. Same for the drums. It was designed to be removed that way, and it can take it.

edit: If you're into how to videos... I agree with 99.99999% of EVERYTHING that comes out of this guy's mouth. he has some stuff on brakes too. Primarily a Honda tech... but he gets Toyotas in too. http://www.youtube.com/user/EricTheCarGuy

ajkalian · 12-22-2010, 06:46 PM

I'm not at all sure how a rotor hat can get stuck on so hard you have to use bolts to remove it. Every one I've ever worked on has come right off.

But if it's really, really, really stuck on there, try this ghetto method.

With the wheels on the car, loosen all the lug nuts on the stuck wheel two or three turns. No need to jack up the car, but you can if you want. Once the lug nuts are loose, lower the car if you jacked it up. Slowly roll 25 feet backward, then 25 feet forward, and any stuck rotor should become un-stuck.

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***LynchburgCSI*** · 12-22-2010, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ajkalian

I'm not at all sure how a rotor hat can get stuck on so hard you have to use bolts to remove it. Every one I've ever worked on has come right off.

But if it's really, really, really stuck on there, try this ghetto method.

Loosen all the lug nuts on the stuck wheel two or three turns. No need to jack up the car, but you can if you want. Once the lug nuts are loose, lower the car if you jacked it up. Slowly roll 25 feet backward, then 25 feet forward, and any stuck rotor should become un-stuck.

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It's not that they necessarily get stuck on that hard.... it's just the easiest way to get them off! For some reason camry rotors like to stick to the hub.

That is INCREDIBLY DANGEROUS... plus you might damage the rotor.

edit: Wait... leave the wheel on.

Okay. That might not be as dangerous as I thought.

twodoorcamry · 12-22-2010, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LynchburgCSI

I'm not watching a 8 minute video on something this simple. But here's my 2 cents. Camry brake rotors have two bolt holes in the hat. Drive in the right size bolt, and the rotor is forced right off. Easy easy. Same for the drums. It was designed to be removed that way, and it can take it.

There aren't any holes on the front of the rotors... Talking about rear rotors here if that makes a difference. Maybe they have been replaced with some other brand? There is the parking brake adjuster hole with the rubber seal... that's all.

It's really stuck... On the other side it came right of. This side is really rusty, even had a hard time getting the wheel of to beginn with.

***LynchburgCSI*** · 12-22-2010, 07:02 PM

Interesting. Yes, I know this picture is of a drum rear brake... but there's NO holes in the rotor hat?

ajkalian · 12-22-2010, 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twodoorcamry

There aren't any holes on the front of the rotors... Talking about rear rotors here if that makes a difference. Maybe they have been replaced with some other brand? There is the parking brake adjuster hole with the rubber seal... that's all.

It's really stuck... On the other side it came right of. This side is really rusty, even had a hard time getting the wheel of to beginn with.

If it's the rear rotors it makes a big difference. The emergency shoes can bind up and make getting the rotors off very difficult. It's not a rust problem, but a lip problem. The interior drums in the emergency brakes, or regular brake drums for that matter, can get a lip on them and that will prevent the rotors or drums from coming off.

In the rear rotor/drum combo you should see a rubber plug. Remove it, and rotate the drum so the hole is at 6:00. If you can't rotate the rotor, be sure the emergency brake is off.

Look inside the hole and you should see a star wheel. Stick a screwdriver in the hole, and engage the star wheel. You want to rotate it clockwise to loosen it. If you do the wrong way, the rotor will become harder to turn. Then just go the other way.

As you loosen the star wheel the wheel should become easier to turn. Keep doing it, until you can slide the rotor off.

Piece of cake.

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ajkalian · 12-22-2010, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LynchburgCSI

Interesting. Yes, I know this picture is of a drum rear brake... but there's NO holes in the rotor hat?

See that black thing at about 10:00. That's the rubber plug that you are supposed to remove. And when you remove the rubber plug you will see a hole.

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rusty9 · 12-22-2010, 07:56 PM

Just smash it with the 4lb sledge. if its been on for so long that it welded itself to the hub, spend the $20 for a new one.

twodoorcamry · 12-22-2010, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LynchburgCSI

Interesting. Yes, I know this picture is of a drum rear brake... but there's NO holes in the rotor hat?

No such holes...

twodoorcamry · 12-22-2010, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ajkalian

If it's the rear rotors it makes a big difference. The emergency shoes can bind up and make getting the rotors off very difficult. It's not a rust problem, but a lip problem. The interior drums in the emergency brakes, or regular brake drums for that matter, can get a lip on them and that will prevent the rotors or drums from coming off.

In the rear rotor/drum combo you should see a rubber plug. Remove it, and rotate the drum so the hole is at 6:00. If you can't rotate the rotor, be sure the emergency brake is off.

Look inside the hole and you should see a star wheel. Stick a screwdriver in the hole, and engage the star wheel. You want to rotate it clockwise to loosen it. If you do the wrong way, the rotor will become harder to turn. Then just go the other way.

As you loosen the star wheel the wheel should become easier to turn. Keep doing it, until you can slide the rotor off.

Piece of cake.

.

Yes I did that too. Turned the wheel in both directions (the adjuster wheel) but didn't help either way.

***LynchburgCSI*** · 12-22-2010, 09:06 PM

The holes are a lie.

Odd. I vote to knock it with a sledge hammer. It's steel. You're not going to royally screw anything up.

ajkalian · 12-22-2010, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twodoorcamry

Yes I did that too. Turned the wheel in both directions (the adjuster wheel) but didn't help either way.

OK, somethings not right. Let's start from the beginning. Here's a DIY I did on Brakes and Bearings. It's kinda long, but you might want to read it.

DIY - 2000 Camry LE, Rear rotors, pads, shoes, caliper re-build, many pics. Part 1

What you want to look at is this:

and this

If you loosen the star wheel enough the rotor/drum assembly will come off.

You have my word on it.

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