99 Solara SE Engine Shake

[SteveSolara]

Hey guys i had this problem about a week now and somethime when i start the car, for about 1min it starts to shake really bad like you can feel the whole car shaking, but after i drive and hit the gas a little hard for about 4-5 min it stops and then its fine after that. I changed my spark plugs, and my EGR Valve. So i have no idea whats going on. Here are some codes that came up.

P0125 ( Closed Loop Fuel Control, Insufficient coolant temp.)

- I always start my car and let it warm up until it goes down to 1,000rpm

P1135 ( Manufacture Control Fuel Air Metering.)

- Not sure what that means but i think it has to do something with the Ram intake maybe? On my OBD II it also has 2 of this code but one of it says (Pending)

Any help would be great thanks

[fenixus]

Steve you have 2 possibly bad sensors that can cause it easily.

1) Engine Coolant Temperature sensor for E.F.I. (causes P0125), most likely it cheats the computer about engine temperature at warm up so ECU cannot set the proper Air-Fuel mixture

you can test leads on this sensor with a multimeter after unplugging the connector. do it on very cold car to see what ohms it reports. It might be reporting wrong resistance to ECU.

2) P1135 is Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response. (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
get a new Denso AFR sensor and replace it first, this is a crucial sensor for ECU to set correct fuel trims (and air-fuel mixture).

get new one online off ebay cheapest, they are quite easy to replace with a borrowed (from autozone) o2 sensor socket and a ratchet (may need a long one for rear bank on V6).

check out:
http://www.densoaftermarket.com/catalog/catalog.php

for correct part number and look for it on ebay, make sure you are getting OEM one (with plug) instead of Universal one (requires soldering/re-using plug from old one).

it seems the V6 bank 1 (rear by firewall) is 234-9007 Denso, e.g. this @ $100 shipped free:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DENSO...Q5fAccessories


Reset the ECU after AFR sensor has been replaced by pulling out the 15A blue fuse marked EFI from Main Engine Fuse box (driver side) for 1-2 minutes and let the ECU re-learn the patterns by driving it normally for a few days.

good luck!

[SteveSolara]

Holy crap you know your stuff Thanks man i'll try to order them or actually ill try to find them first and try to clean it and see if that help if not ill buy new ones. Thanks again

[fenixus]

Originally Posted by SteveSolara

Holy crap you know your stuff Thanks man i'll try to order them or actually ill try to find them first and try to clean it and see if that help if not ill buy new ones. Thanks again

glad I was able to help

I wouldn't bother cleaning the AFR sensor though. They do not last much longer than 100k miles without problems, most tends to die at ~ 150k miles on average. just get a new one for rear to get rid off the AFR HTR error code.
you should also consider replacing the front one (same p/n should fit no problems, needed wire length is pretty much same, not sure why they distinguish them in catalogs) to keep things in sound.

if you ever start getting catalytic converter errors, replace the rear oxygen sensor (under car in exhaust pipe) first too. those tend not to last above 100k miles. they are like $50 off ebay new OEM Denso.

ECT for EFI sensor is something that doesn't usually go bad, however sometimes it does (might be very dirty). cleaning this one might pay off, but first simply test its resistance readings at cold (shut off) car and see if it falls into proper temperature range (replace if it doesn't).

general graph for temperature/resistance relation on toyota ECT sensors:

[SteveSolara]

Originally Posted by fenixus

glad I was able to help

I wouldn't bother cleaning the AFR sensor though. They do not last much longer than 100k miles without problems, most tends to die at ~ 150k miles on average. just get a new one for rear to get rid off the AFR HTR error code.
you should also consider replacing the front one (same p/n should fit no problems, needed wire length is pretty much same, not sure why they distinguish them in catalogs) to keep things in sound.

if you ever start getting catalytic converter errors, replace the rear oxygen sensor (under car in exhaust pipe) first too. those tend not to last above 100k miles. they are like $50 off ebay new OEM Denso.

ECT for EFI sensor is something that doesn't usually go bad, however sometimes it does (might be very dirty). cleaning this one might pay off, but first simply test its resistance readings at cold (shut off) car and see if it falls into proper temperature range (replace if it doesn't).

general graph for temperature/resistance relation on toyota ECT sensors:

Thanks again