3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
1995 Camry 2.2 Automatic Christmas not present (transmission and fuses)
All of a sudden yesterday (Christmas Eve) when leaving the grocery store, my transmission would not change gears. It was like I was stuck in Low, I had to take my foot off the accelerator a number of times before it finally switched gears. I thought that was strange as I had not noticed any signs of trouble before. THEN the kicker, I had no heating fan, no speedometer, or any other gauges, the power windows didn't work or the rear window defrost or A/C.
I changed the 10A fuse (#18 in the instrument panel fuse box) and powered up and all was well again UNTIL I moved the shift from Park, then the fuse blew again.
So my question, as a non-mechanic, is how could using the shift blow a seemingly unrelated fuse, and how does the slipping transmission fit together?
1995 Camry 2.2l 4-cyl Canadian.
It's a real pain because it means that I have missed my family Christmas dinner, because I can't drive with no defrost fan at this time of year in the Ottawa area.
Merry Christmas!
Last edited by NonMechanic; 12-25-2010 at 12:11 PM.
Reason: I'd put 2005 instead of 1995 in the thread subject
Something in your computer may have shorted out. That would cause everything to screw up. Your shifting pattern mess up is related to the Speed sensor not indicating to the computer how fast you were going .. Your fuse blowing when you went from Park to Drive could have been related to the Brake sensor for the shifter
I would test the ECU before replacing parts. Thats a lot of things going bad at once, and the only logical thing could be a malfunctioning computer
Definitely sounds like a computer/wiring problem. I one time had a bad ground, and it threw 5 CEL codes at once. After fixing the ground, all but one disappeared. So I would check the ECU first, then wiring... It's a pain. But it'll get fixed one way or another.
My advice: Take the day off and enjoy the holiday.
Merry Christmas!
It looks like typical electrical (bad connections and/or shortcuts) winter problem (temp. under 0 degrees and salt on roads).
Try to disconnect, spray some solvent (or multi-purpose liquid) and connect back, all electric connectors (plugs) in engine room (on A/T, under battery and cruise unit and around A/T). Move and gently shake ALL wires.
Because of economy (use of less wires), many things are connected to the same circuits (protected by the same fuse). Many times relations are very strange and stupid (example: horn and stop light bulbs in Mazda 6). Then you experience "unrelated fuse" problems...
Try to start car with A/T in Neutral (instead of Parking) and in 3-gear mode (O/D OFF), and don't switch on all high-power devices (fan, rear window defrost, head lights) at one time (wait few minutes, warm up engine, and try to drive).
Last edited by pmx007PL; 12-25-2010 at 01:55 PM.
Reason: Stupid "Mazda 6" example.
Wow I sure appreciate everyone's input on Christmas day!
pmx007PL - I did as you suggested regarding starting in neutral, I was temporarily excited. I started the car in neutral (with yet another 10A fuse installed) let it run a couple of minutes, turned the defog fan on full, and then put it into Drive and drove off up the road. No problems with the transmission changing gears, or overdrive, rear defrost turned on/off ok, windows worked... until I got down the road and had to do a 3 point turn to head back home. As soon as I shifted out of Drive to Reverse the fuse blew, the heater fan, gauges,,, went off and the transmission acted up again when I started to drive back.
In my User Manual on page 218 under Fuses (type B) 18. GAUGE 10A: Gauges and meters, back-up lights, air condition control system, rear window deffoger, service reminder indicators, daytime running light system, tilt steering. doesn't mention power windows...
hmmm .. Well it would seem theres a problem with the reverse circuit. when your vehicles in reverse the Neutral Safety Switch is what sends the signal to the rear taillights. Have you tried (without starting the car) To put the vehicle in reverse and see if the fuse blows? If it does theres either a wiring issue at the NSS or the wiring from the NSS To the taillights. The NSS Shorted out would be more common than a shorted harness wire, but either can happen
I've seen so many ground shorts on older Toyotas and the fix is scrubbing all grounds.... worst case is the switch.
__________________
Preventive maintenance prevents mechanical problems. Ripe out your owners manual's maintenance schedule and start some common sense intervals for ALL fluids in your vehicle.
Well it definitely involves the reverse circuit. I noticed fairly recently that my reverse lights were not working any more and thinking that I should look into that.
Mister_Perkins - I've used up 6 fuses and only have one left, that I'll keep for an emergency. But I did just start my car in Neutral again, with a new fuse and I could shift into L1 L2 or Dr no problem, but from Neutral to Reverse and the fuse blew again.
Would you have any suggestions in plain English for a non-mechanic to tide me over the long weekend? If I never needed to use reverse it would be easier to live with for a couple of days, unfortunately life isn't that way.
Remove the backup light bulbs. Use an ohmmeter to check for conductivity to chassis ground. You can do this in P and engine off.
If you find only one bulb socket's circuit shorted to ground, then you can focus on that side and check for a wire rubbing on the chassis, etc.
Get an ohmmeter if you don't have one, in the US there is the $2.99USD one from Harbor Freight that works well. Put it in ohm mode. I'm not sure the exact bulb it uses, one contact should be a supply and the other return to ground (typically the metal shell if that's the type). Put one probe to a known chassis ground, and the other probe those two bulb contacts. If both show 0 to chassis ground then you know that circuit is bad.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NonMechanic
Well it definitely involves the reverse circuit. I noticed fairly recently that my reverse lights were not working any more and thinking that I should look into that.
Mister_Perkins - I've used up 6 fuses and only have one left, that I'll keep for an emergency. But I did just start my car in Neutral again, with a new fuse and I could shift into L1 L2 or Dr no problem, but from Neutral to Reverse and the fuse blew again.
Would you have any suggestions in plain English for a non-mechanic to tide me over the long weekend? If I never needed to use reverse it would be easier to live with for a couple of days, unfortunately life isn't that way.
"As soon as I shifted out of Drive to Reverse the fuse blew"
"Well it definitely involves the reverse circuit. I noticed fairly recently that my reverse lights were not working any more and thinking that I should look into that."
This may seem a little strange, but check the loom of wires in the trunk by the driver's side trunk hinge. Open up that loom of wires and look for frayed or broken wires in there. Notice the color of the wire(s) going to the reverse lights and check that particular wire very carefully. The wires in that loom have a tendancy to frey and break over the years. Several of the wires, including the wires for the reverse lights could be frayed and touching each other. This could cause the blowing of the fuse that you are experiencing. Fix what you find in there with some electrical tape, if you only find freyed (exposed) wiring. I know this sounds like a long shot, but it only takes a few minutes to check.
"As soon as I shifted out of Drive to Reverse the fuse blew"
"Well it definitely involves the reverse circuit. I noticed fairly recently that my reverse lights were not working any more and thinking that I should look into that."
This may seem a little strange, but check the loom of wires in the trunk by the driver's side trunk hinge. Open up that loom of wires and look for frayed or broken wires in there. Notice the color of the wire(s) going to the reverse lights and check that particular wire very carefully. The wires in that loom have a tendancy to frey and break over the years. Several of the wires, including the wires for the reverse lights could be frayed and touching each other. This could cause the blowing of the fuse that you are experiencing. Fix what you find in there with some electrical tape, if you only find freyed (exposed) wiring. I know this sounds like a long shot, but it only takes a few minutes to check.
Mike
If that is the cause, How would he do a permanent fix?
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1995 Camry 2.2 Automatic Christmas not present (transmission and fuses)
95 Camry
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