Swapping heads, should I rebuild too?

[oscaryu1]

In the middle of swapping a warped cylinder head with a dropped seat (overheated) - wondering if it would be a smart idea to rebuild the bottom end while I'm at it? (Pan and balancer shafts have been removed as of yesterday - YAY )

[rusty9]

thats always a good idea. I would take the block and heads to a machine shop to have them inspected and properly done if you dont have all the right tools.

[Chris Crash]

Mileage? Engine out of the car? How mechanically inclined are you? How much money you got?

[N/A Camry Sleeper]

Are you going to be needing the camshafts out of the warped head? If not I would be interested in them if they are for a 5SFE 4-cyl any year...Just let me know and I would be happy to purchase them...

[JohnGD]

Yes especially if the overheated block was pulled. Did you remove the engine block?

Have a shop go over and magneflux the block for cracks. Check the pistons and bores (for scuffing). Put all new seals/gaskets/bearings/rings and other parts like thermostat, water pump in there too.

Are you using an AERA Engine Rebuilders Assoc member shop in your area? No guarantees of course, some are still duds but better if the shop has racing experience. But with salvaged low miles motors cheap, maybe do a swap and still come out ahead?

http://www.aera.org/member.aspx

Originally Posted by oscaryu1

In the middle of swapping a warped cylinder head with a dropped seat (overheated) - wondering if it would be a smart idea to rebuild the bottom end while I'm at it? (Pan and balancer shafts have been removed as of yesterday - YAY )

[oscaryu1]

15, a bit of engine experience. Hey I pulled everything out of there myself... :P And did an engine swap on an '87 Camry. Although that really doesn't count cause the engine was a dud ._.

Didn't pull the block, just the head. The block is probably a bit warped, but is it really something I should be really worried about? Seemed like quite a lot of work to bring the block out and completely rebuild it. I don't really have a problem with it, but that '87 Camry swap didn't exactly inspire any confidence into me lol.

I COULD bring it to a machine shop and have them facemill it down flat, but for a cheap rebuild (rebuilt heads + new head gasket), would the block check out OK?

170k on the clock.

[JohnGD]

If the block is still in there then maybe not. Just check for (iron block) flatness and the general condition of the cylinders. If there's no scuffing visible and the crosshatch pattern is still there then you should be fine (the pistons didn't get hot enough to weld to the cylinders temporarily as they traveled).

There is a chance of heat related distortions and problems (rod journal turn oval, water pump seal will leak, oil seals harden, cracked engine block, etc) but it depends on the degree of overheating.

Change out as many gaskets/seals you can reach. Use new head bolts and water pump and button everything back up. And if this doesn't work out, there's always the salvage yard low miles engine.

Originally Posted by oscaryu1

15, a bit of engine experience. Hey I pulled everything out of there myself... :P And did an engine swap on an '87 Camry. Although that really doesn't count cause the engine was a dud ._.

Didn't pull the block, just the head. The block is probably a bit warped, but is it really something I should be really worried about? Seemed like quite a lot of work to bring the block out and completely rebuild it. I don't really have a problem with it, but that '87 Camry swap didn't exactly inspire any confidence into me lol.

I COULD bring it to a machine shop and have them facemill it down flat, but for a cheap rebuild (rebuilt heads + new head gasket), would the block check out OK?

170k on the clock.

[SexieWASD]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

And if this doesn't work out, there's always the salvage yard low miles engine.

I could not find any engines, not one. Not from local junkyards, or to be ordered. I think it may be a conspiracy against me.

[oscaryu1]

Actually it was overheated to HELL. You could smell things burning (or so they said)...

But, the crosshatch is still there. Coolant began pouring from the waterpump area right as we pushed it home (stalled and had NO compression)...

That no compression thing is worrying though, at one point when we cranked it after it stalled, it seemed to want to turn over (even though I had yanked the plug wires, just to test the compression really), and then the next there was literally nothing.

Any idea what this was? Blown head gasket? (Couldn't tell, when I pulled it off it came apart in two pieces ), cracked head? (again, I only found signs of one dropped seat, and others looked like they were about to join it), or maybe block? D:

[Mister_Perkins]

If your motor overheated to the point of stalling more than likely your pistons expanded and it probably scratched your cylinder wall. your probably going to have to hone the cylinders and possibly get new pistons.

Since your motor overheated its highly suggested that you magnaflux the block like JohnGD Said. Since it overheated there may be hairline cracks in the cast now.

I would test the head first and see if its cracked or anything. if your head is cracked or the gasket was bad your probably loosing compression through the gasket or crack. It will cost you $30 or $40.00 to get the head pressure checked, dipped, and checked for cracks

Its much more common for a Head to warp on these cars rather than a block because the head is aluminum and warps easily

[JohnGD]

If that's the case maybe swapping in a salvage yard engine you'll still be ahead? But it may be worth a gamble because without an inspection by a competent shop you really won't know. That said costs and time add up quickly.

Check another member's recent experience:
What is your opinion of NTB? Motor swap?

Do change the ATF as well, it's probably cooked.

Originally Posted by oscaryu1

Actually it was overheated to HELL. You could smell things burning (or so they said)...

But, the crosshatch is still there. Coolant began pouring from the waterpump area right as we pushed it home (stalled and had NO compression)...

That no compression thing is worrying though, at one point when we cranked it after it stalled, it seemed to want to turn over (even though I had yanked the plug wires, just to test the compression really), and then the next there was literally nothing.

Any idea what this was? Blown head gasket? (Couldn't tell, when I pulled it off it came apart in two pieces ), cracked head? (again, I only found signs of one dropped seat, and others looked like they were about to join it), or maybe block? D: