1992 Camry Overheating. Replaced everything and still doing it !!!

[fayiz]

Hopefully someone has figured this out...seen alot of people with overheating camrys here but nobody actually posts the final result.

Camry was overheating, diagnosed to be the Headgaskets. Had those replaced, as well as had the heads sent out and overhauled...still overheating. But this time it takes about 20 mins to overheat, and if your revved it, the temp would drop dramatically. Heat works fine.

Waterpump was replaced as well as another OEM thermostat put in (once they overheat once, they should be replaced). Figured the impeller may have rotted inside, and was only building enough pressure when RPMs were high. This time I drove it for about an hour and a half city driving before it started to move up to the red.

Radiator was replaced (new thermostat as well) as it appeared to have some build up inside. System was flushed as well. As long as the heats cranked in the city, temp stays where it's supposed to be when driving (3 hours). Fan looks like it may not be spinning fast enough.

Anyways here's what stumps me. To rule out the fan, I went on the highway. After about 20 mins on the highway, temps start to creep up and eventually almost make it to the red. I turned off the engine, let it cool for about 20 mins. Weird thing is, I turned it back on, and although the temp was still above normal, it cooled at idle. So I drove back to the city. Once back in the city I was able to drive it around for another hour no problem even though it just was overheating on the highway.

So any ideas ? I'm running out of patience.

Vehicle is a 5 spd 1992 Toyota Camry (3vz) w/ hydraulic fan setup.

[BMR]

Could be there's air trapped in the system? Whenever I've drained the coolant on my 3VZ Camry, I do this:

1) With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap at the thermostat. (not the one on the radiator.) This is the highest point in the system, so the air most likely gets trapped there.

2) Start the engine, and have a 50/50 mix of antifreeze/water at the ready.

3) As the coolant warms up and the thermostat opens, air starts burbling up; top it off with coolant as it does so.

4) Keep doing #3 until air quits bubbling up.

If memory serves, it usually takes about a quart doing this.

[fayiz]

Yes I used that fill procedure. I'm certain there isn't any air in the system as I let it idle for about a half hour while watching and filling for bubbles and then making sure there weren't anymore.


Only thing I haven't changed is the rad caps yet, but the system is pressurized, and I don't think my symptoms are related to that. (correct me if I'm wrong).

[Mister_Perkins]

sounds like your radiator is plugged

[fayiz]

Its brand new, and I flushed the system with its installation.

[Mister_Perkins]

well since its new, the only other thing I could think of would be the radiator cap

[carsrus]

Originally Posted by fayiz

Only thing I haven't changed is the rad caps yet, but the system is pressurized, and I don't think my symptoms are related to that. (correct me if I'm wrong).

Yeah the rad cap shoulda been the first thing you replaced. Its only 5$ and its critical.

Have you replaced all hoses? You could have a hose the collapses under higher flow.

If all else fails check the coolant for exhaust gases with a test strip. Who knows maybe you have a hairline crack in the block.

[Mister_Perkins]

Or rent a radiator Pressure Check, and pressurize the entire system at 15psi for 15 - 20 minutes. While its pressurized use a light and look around the entire motor bay for bubbles or leakage. This will confirm the entire system is not leaking

[fayiz]

I'll give the caps a shot and follow up.

[zppeacock]

Does the fan kick on high when it gets hot? You can jump the hydrolic fan from the diag port under the hood to make it run at full rpm. I dont remember what pins to jump though.

[peshwa]

Also did you check that newly installed head gaskets are not already blown? Just throwing out a possibility....