3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I working on removing the rear struts on a 1999 Camry V6. I have a Haynes manual and have consulted several online resources and have had the same directions for removal....take out the back seat to access the top of the strut. Only when I take out the back seat I see a metal panel covering the area where the strut is.
Am I suppose to cut out this sheet metal panel to access the top of the strut? Or is there another way. This seems like poor planing on Toyota's part if I am to cut out this panel.
There is a plate on mine. I'm trying to figure out how to get to the area in the image you attached. I have a plate in truck area and beneath the rear seat that seems to be tap welded in place covering the top of the rear strut. I'm about to tear into it with something but wanted to figure out if there was another way first.
If you are removing the struts you will need to access the mounting nuts to remove the strut. What's the reason for removing the cover, particularly if it is tack welded in place.
I plan to do the ones on my Camry next month, I did not have a problem with my Corolla.
I can't seem to gain access to the top strut mounting nuts to remove them. I can access the lower strut mounting bolts that attach to the knuckle behind the wheel.
If you know how to get to the top of the strut mounting bolts please do tell.
I did my 99 about a month ago and no problem. Followed the Haynes manual and advice from here and it came off after taking the nuts off. Like the previous poster, you have to take the side plastic panels off, and loosen several trim pieces but once off, it is pretty straightforward. The only problem I had was a ratchet fit on two of the nuts but not the third. I had to just use the wrench the old fashioned way to tighten it down. Just takes longer but definitely doable. I did the Monroe Quick Struts all the way around. The hardest/most frustating part was taking off the stupid nuts from the end links which were rusted on. Had to soak them good with PB Blaster first. Can you post the picture where it shows here. Will give us a better idea what the problem might be.
Thanks all, I finally found the top of the rear struts...small cavity near the seat belt housing. I'll be taking out the side seat pieces and the read package deck. Also, FYI - the Stabilizer Links cost 13.99 each at O'Reilly's....might save you all some frusteration. The stabilizer links are the god forsaken nuts that require an allen wrench to remove. Mine were rusted out and the allen wrench broke free inside the bolt. So in the rear only, I decided (after they both stripped out) to call the local parts store, for $25 and a whole lot less hard ache, I took the plunge.
As for breaking the main nuts free on the strut assembly down at the knuckle, that was really difficult, even with a breaker bar and an iron pipe (encouragement bar) I had a really tough time getting a good angle to break the nuts free. I found my self under the car lifting myself off the ground trying to break it free - finally resorting to using an open ended 3/4 wrench and my foot to move the darn things.
Right now, I just need to get to the tops of the struts and take them off. If anyone has any suggestions on how to do this with the minimal amount of dissesembly of my rear section of my car, I would sure appreciate it.
Right now, I just need to get to the tops of the struts and take them off. If anyone has any suggestions on how to do this with the minimal amount of dissesembly of my rear section of my car, I would sure appreciate it.
Are you talking about getting the strut mounts disassembled from the top of the strut? If so, that's covered in my DIY; scroll about halfway down. Your '99 should be very similar if not identical.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
I removed just the side bolsters and used a wrench to remove some of the three nuts holding the top of the strut. I never removed the package shelf at all. The clearance was tight but certainly doable.
I removed just the side bolsters and used a wrench to remove some of the three nuts holding the top of the strut. I never removed the package shelf at all. The clearance was tight but certainly doable.
As preventing maintenance I recently did all front and rear struts, shocks, springs, etc, and I agree with you. I do not know why the Haynes manual says that you should remove the back seat and rear panel, actually opening the side corners is more than enough to get carefully into de nuts.
I did it! Its all finished...Just removing the side seat section was enough. It was very tight but I was able to do it. A 13mm open ended ratchet wrench was very helpful once the nuts were broken free. With so little space anything would help...so I would recommend the ratchet wrench since the socket could not fit.
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