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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 12-27-2010, 10:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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False Tailight burnout Light!

This just started happening on my 93 Camry. My Dashboard tailight burnout warning light, started lighting up everytime I hit the brakes. Yet multiple checks of all of my brake lights show they are all functioning fully. All side lights, High mounted rear window, spoiler, perfect. Not an emergency, but really annoying to have a dash warning light, light up every time you hit the brake pedal. Any ideas on what this could be?
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Old 12-27-2010, 10:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silent Runner View Post
This just started happening on my 93 Camry. My Dashboard tailight burnout warning light, started lighting up everytime I hit the brakes. Yet multiple checks of all of my brake lights show they are all functioning fully. All side lights, High mounted rear window, spoiler, perfect. Not an emergency, but really annoying to have a dash warning light, light up every time you hit the brake pedal. Any ideas on what this could be?
I would check all bulb connectors for loose connections or corrosion.

Make sure the primary and secondary bulb lights up. ie hitting the brakes and not hitting the brakes
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Old 12-27-2010, 10:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silent Runner View Post
This just started happening on my 93 Camry. My Dashboard tailight burnout warning light, started lighting up everytime I hit the brakes. Yet multiple checks of all of my brake lights show they are all functioning fully. All side lights, High mounted rear window, spoiler, perfect. Not an emergency, but really annoying to have a dash warning light, light up every time you hit the brake pedal. Any ideas on what this could be?
I have that too. I cannot figure it out for anything!
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Old 12-28-2010, 09:22 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Its either a wiring problem to the harness connectors, or your Brake light out warning light module is going bad. Have a helper hold the brake, or jam a piece of wood to hold the brake in place and wiggle the wiring to the taillights. If thats all good, then Pull back the drivers side trunk carpeting and pull the Module out and pull the cover off and inspect it for burns.
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Old 12-28-2010, 09:39 AM   #5 (permalink)
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The warning bulb isn't only for broken bulbs, its also a warning that bulbs are ABOUT to break.. so I'd keep checking, see if some bulbs are dimmer than usual. The filament of the bulb may be corroding and needs to be replaced soon, throwing off the resistance and hence the warning light.
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Old 12-28-2010, 10:00 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iovaykind View Post
The warning bulb isn't only for broken bulbs, its also a warning that bulbs are ABOUT to break.. so I'd keep checking, see if some bulbs are dimmer than usual. The filament of the bulb may be corroding and needs to be replaced soon, throwing off the resistance and hence the warning light.
Exactly. The resistance of the filament goes up right before a bulb is about to blow. And corrosion on the metal tabs of the bulb/sockets can also lead to the light coming on. The light works on RESISTANCE. Nothing else.

Question for the OP... does the light go off when the pedal is released? If so, that's not supposed to happen.
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Old 12-28-2010, 12:18 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Ok this is what happen to me, I have the blub in my hand it's a #1157 GE manufactured in hungry. Filaments are good

My dash indicator was signaling intermittingly lamp out, I would go back & thump the right TL, light would come until the next bump came along. After getting tired of this I pulled the blub.

This what I found, the two lead contact points on the base of blub were pounded flat, even maybe a little indented.. I have seen this before, back in the day when blubs were built to last a little longer.

I suspected poor contact in the socket, so I replaced the blub and the problem went away. Now the same problem is beginning with the left side TL, it's only a matter of time until I get tired of whacking it…. and spend the $ for a new blub.

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Old 12-28-2010, 01:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I've swapped out all of my bulbs already and changed the harnesses out, I still have it.
Are you sure that indicator light doesn't have anything to do with the headlights too?
Now I do have a problem with my Scepter headlights for sure.
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Old 12-28-2010, 01:35 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The light indicator is for the rear taillights only.. doesn't do anything for the headlights
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Old 12-28-2010, 01:36 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichieRichJP View Post
I've swapped out all of my bulbs already and changed the harnesses out, I still have it.
Are you sure that indicator light doesn't have anything to do with the headlights too?
Now I do have a problem with my Scepter headlights for sure.

Check the lamp failure box. This might be a dumb question...but are you using the right lights?
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Old 12-28-2010, 05:36 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Mister_Perkins View Post
The light indicator is for the rear taillights only.. doesn't do anything for the headlights
Agreed.
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Originally Posted by Chris Crash View Post
Check the lamp failure box. This might be a dumb question...but are you using the right lights?
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Old 12-28-2010, 05:45 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Does it go off when...

Quote:
Originally Posted by LynchburgCSI View Post
Exactly. The resistance of the filament goes up right before a bulb is about to blow. And corrosion on the metal tabs of the bulb/sockets can also lead to the light coming on. The light works on RESISTANCE. Nothing else.

Question for the OP... does the light go off when the pedal is released? If so, that's not supposed to happen.
Interesting, it does indeed go off when the pedal is released. In responce to several other inquiries, I have checked all the filiments in all the bulbs and the condition of all sockets and bulb contacts.The bulbs all seem to have the same brilliance, and the connections are corrossion and damage free. I was slightly aware of the test circuits use of resistance to active the light, but it was clearly pointed out to me when I tried replacing all of my tailight bulbs with LED replacements some time ago. (They were also to directional for the mounting system and to dim). It sounds as though I'm going to have to look at this "failure module", mounted in the trunk. I'm also going to try a little dialectric grease in all of the bulb sockets. Thanks for the ideas!
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Old 12-28-2010, 05:47 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Check the lamp failure box. This might be a dumb question...but are you using the right lights?
Of course I'm using the right lights lol
Dude, you're going to have to tell me where the lamp failure box is on the Camry. I do all my work on the MR2 lol
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Old 12-28-2010, 06:59 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Yeah i have a similar and weird problem with this as well. My indicator is on. All the rear lights are on, but when i hit the brakes to the two brake lights closest to the license plate go out, and the far side ones and top mount go on. Just think its weird they work until i hit the brakes, and BTW they both went out at the same time.
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Old 12-28-2010, 08:27 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Open the trunk. Pull the carpet off the left hand side near the front of the trunk (if you're standing behind the trunk, it's towards the front of the CAR) and there should be a little blue or black box.
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