3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I am going to be in the market for a new radiator soon. I have checked online and I have found the price range to be anywhere from $70 to over $200. Anyone have any advice on where I can find the best radiator for the price?
But, you should check your local autopart stores. If they come with a good warranty, less of a hassle than trying to ship back a damaged or defective radiator.
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Preventive maintenance prevents mechanical problems. Ripe out your owners manual's maintenance schedule and start some common sense intervals for ALL fluids in your vehicle.
Recently there is the talk about TYC radiators on rockauto. You'll get a Koyo radiator supposedly (no guarantee). It's a good aftermarket brand. Or you can check online toyota dealers. They're like $70 more and you probably get an OEM Denso or maybe Harrison??
I'm not a big fan of overpriced dealer antifreeze.
Zerex Asian and Peak Global are excellent coolants usually found at your local 'marts or auto part stores.
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Preventive maintenance prevents mechanical problems. Ripe out your owners manual's maintenance schedule and start some common sense intervals for ALL fluids in your vehicle.
I appreciate the advice. I will call some of the local radiator shops to see what they charge. Another thing that occured to me is trying a sealing additive to get me by until I change my timing belt and water pump since that will require draining the coolant anyways. The alternative may be doing the timing belt early and taking care of the radiator at the same time. I may end up going this direction because the thought of adding a liquid sealant to the cooling system kind of bugs me. Who knows what else it might plug up?
Radiator/block sealent are products from days gone by when your radiator tubes were larger, and you coolant passages had greater volume. I would not recommendon it for newer cars as a fix. If you are broken down and need it to get back to town then maybe, as a last resort. Followed by a complete flush.
Ask what aradiator shop would sell you the core for and you do the work; don't get stuck paying for the shop labor if you have the resources to do the work youself.
I just did one of my 99 Camry's radiator about 2 weeks ago. It was the typical hairline crack in the plastic side on top. I ended up buying one from Autozone for around $95 or so, it allegedly has a lifetime warranty and Autozone is good about returns here. Put in the new one w/Toyota Red coolant and distilled water. Pretty easy job taking my time, around 1-2 hours. The hardest part was the simple thing, getting the rusted bolts on the bottom flash guard off. Two broke off and I just went down to Ace Hardware and got new metric bolts. Ace Hardware in my neck of the woods carries a ton of metric bolts. Have fun!
TYC Part # 1746 {#1640020050, 1640020060, TO3010120} 1 Row; 27MM CORE; Plastic-Aluminum - Stocked in outlying warehouse--shipping delayed up to 1 business day $87.79
PRO Part # 8011746 Plastic Tank / Aluminum Core $89.79
SPECTRA, TYC, VISTA-PRO, PRO
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Edit: just called local Autozone - $133 USD life time warranty for the Spectra, I'm guessing shipping will ding me at least $20 + so . . . .
Thanks!
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
SUCK!!!!!!!
So you all remember when the MZ spit out the front engine mount? Ya, so the engine pulled up in the front a pretty sizable amount (perhaps inches???).
The front mount is good, as are all the rest but it cracked at the top hose on the top tank where the neck attaches!!!! Granted the whole top tank is looking white and has checks all over it just let go as its too brittle - My thinking is the HOT water from the block dried the neck even more and the added stress of the bad front engine mount fatigued it. Time took its tool and it cracked at the top hose. . . .
Anyway, $130 for the Rad from napa, hoses, and fluid and she on the road again. At least it wasn't a complete failure snapping the top off the radiator! I'm sure the MZ would hate that!
Like said earlier - the biggest pain was those rusty ground up bolts under the car holding the plastic shield in place. . . .
Oh - I drove the right side of the car up on two 2" X 4", so the MZ would fill easily! It was still slow but 2 gallons went in. . .
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
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