Aligning cam and crank pulleys???

[pmesfun]

Ok, so I am about to put the new timing belt back on, but I can't get the rear pulley aligned. Right as I am about to align it will move back slightly and make a bang noise. Is this normal?

Also, I missed the alignment mark on the crank, can I rotate it another 180 degrees without doing damage?

[bronzemaxell]

Originally Posted by pmesfun

Ok, so I am about to put the new timing belt back on, but I can't get the rear pulley aligned. Right as I am about to align it will move back slightly and make a bang noise. Is this normal?

Also, I missed the alignment mark on the crank, can I rotate it another 180 degrees without doing damage?

here are my tips, assume you are working on a V6 1mz

use two small long noise locking pliers,
if you bought geninue toyota oem timing belt, the belt will have two solid green line, and one dotted line,

the two solid green line will need to line up with both cam pulley dot and timing belt backcover notch, clamp down the timing belt using the locking plier, doesn't have to be super tight, just enough to clamp down the belt from jumping a tooth.

i would use short 17mm socket and breaker bar with zipties to hold the each cam from rotating if i am doing it alone.

the crank pulley also has dot, i normally intially line up the crank with belt purposely 1 tooth off(at least that is what it looks like to me), and then turn the crank pulley clockwise slighly to adjust the slack on the new timing belt, by the time i turn the crank pulley just a little bit, my timing belt will perfectly line up with cams and crank.

i wasted many hours to find out how easy it can be if it is done the smarter way.

[JohnGD]

That's the valve spring action at work. That's why always be careful when working around these gears and sprockets so you fingers don't get caught. Yes, it's normal. however, when right on marks they should stay there.

The lines on the timing belt are there to help with these alignments. With everything on the mark you can just pull the pin on tensioner and be done.

Since we typically start from the crank and work counterclockwise, I usually leave the crank and front cam on the mark, and use the box-end of the combo wrench to adjust the rear sprocket. You turn the rear cam mark towards the front, seat the belt, and the turn it back so the mark aligns with the back cover.

Double check everything again, and pull pin. Done.

Originally Posted by pmesfun

Ok, so I am about to put the new timing belt back on, but I can't get the rear pulley aligned. Right as I am about to align it will move back slightly and make a bang noise. Is this normal?

Also, I missed the alignment mark on the crank, can I rotate it another 180 degrees without doing damage?

[pmesfun]

Just for clarification, I have a 99 avalon 1mz-fe without vvti.

Originally Posted by bronzemaxell

here are my tips, assume you are working on a V6 1mz

use two small long noise locking pliers,
if you bought geninue toyota oem timing belt, the belt will have two solid green line, and one dotted line,

the two solid green line will need to line up with both cam pulley dot and timing belt backcover notch, clamp down the timing belt using the locking plier, doesn't have to be super tight, just enough to clamp down the belt from jumping a tooth.

i would use short 17mm socket and breaker bar with zipties to hold the each cam from rotating if i am doing it alone.

the crank pulley also has dot, i normally intially line up the crank with belt purposely 1 tooth off(at least that is what it looks like to me), and then turn the crank pulley clockwise slighly to adjust the slack on the new timing belt, by the time i turn the crank pulley just a little bit, my timing belt will perfectly line up with cams and crank.

i wasted many hours to find out how easy it can be if it is done the smarter way.

Yes, I have the Mitsuboshi timing belt, and it has the alignment marks on it. I will give your idea a try. Thanks

Originally Posted by JohnGD

That's the valve spring action at work. That's why always be careful when working around these gears and sprockets so you fingers don't get caught. Yes, it's normal. however, when right on marks they should stay there.

The lines on the timing belt are there to help with these alignments. With everything on the mark you can just pull the pin on tensioner and be done.

Since we typically start from the crank and work counterclockwise, I usually leave the crank and front cam on the mark, and use the box-end of the combo wrench to adjust the rear sprocket. You turn the rear cam mark towards the front, seat the belt, and the turn it back so the mark aligns with the back cover.

Double check everything again, and pull pin. Done.

I just remembered this, but since I have the valve covers off I can use the dots on the cam gears to make sure the pulley is aligned. Correct?

[JohnGD]

Right, the driving and driven gears on the driver side can be. But that primarily for installing the cylinder head. The standard method for checking the timing is still with the front marks. So after everything is done at least double check using the front marks and you should be fine.

This video may help.

You Tube

You Tube

Originally Posted by pmesfun

I just remembered this, but since I have the valve covers off I can use the dots on the cam gears to make sure the pulley is aligned. Correct?

[ajkalian]

Originally Posted by pmesfun

Just for clarification, I have a 99 avalon 1mz-fe without vvti.

Yes, I have the Mitsuboshi timing belt, and it has the alignment marks on it. I will give your idea a try. Thanks


I just remembered this, but since I have the valve covers off I can use the dots on the cam gears to make sure the pulley is aligned. Correct?

Well, I just got back from New Years festivities and thought I'd check in to see what's happening.

I'm not sure if the marks on the gears inside the valve covers correspond to the marks on the cam gears. But it doesn't matter. Just follow the diagram that I posted earlier, aligning the hash marks of the cam gears, with the hash marks on the cam cover, with the timing belt.

On thing that will cause you grief is if you get the belt backward. There is a dot on the CRANK that lines up with the one line near the label on the timing belt. Usually there is a line, and then the label markings. The label markings should be on top of the line, not underneath. These face to the right. I hope that makes sense.

Then the other lines should line up with the Cam markings. The belt is not symmetrical. So if you get it backwards it won't fit. This isn't a very good shot, but it shows the crank snout, and the dot on the crank, and the line. There should be label information right near that line. That part of the belt faces to the right.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...MakeaMark2.jpg

Then line up the marks on the belt with the cam pulleys and you should be good to go. The OP's idea of using zip ties to hold the belt in place is a good one. The more the better.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j169/marc780/V6TBdisaster046-1.jpg


.

[bronzemaxell]

i just watched the video, very smart way to use the ziptie to hold the cam pulley

also, i saw the mechanic who took out the two studs from waterpump, i found if i put a 2x4 wood stud on oil pan, jackup the engine a little bit by oil pan, the water pump can slide out with out removing those two long stud.
i thought the back timing cover need to come off in order to remove waterpump, now i also learn something new.

[pmesfun]

Originally Posted by ajkalian

Well, I just got back from New Years festivities and thought I'd check in to see what's happening.

I'm not sure if the marks on the gears inside the valve covers correspond to the marks on the cam gears. But it doesn't matter. Just follow the diagram that I posted earlier, aligning the hash marks of the cam gears, with the hash marks on the cam cover, with the timing belt.

On thing that will cause you grief is if you get the belt backward. There is a dot on the CRANK that lines up with the one line near the label on the timing belt. Usually there is a line, and then the label markings. The label markings should be on top of the line, not underneath. These face to the right. I hope that makes sense.

Then the other lines should line up with the Cam markings. The belt is not symmetrical. So if you get it backwards it won't fit. This isn't a very good shot, but it shows the crank snout, and the dot on the crank, and the line. There should be label information right near that line. That part of the belt faces to the right.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...MakeaMark2.jpg

Then line up the marks on the belt with the cam pulleys and you should be good to go. The OP's idea of using zip ties to hold the belt in place is a good one. The more the better.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j169/marc780/V6TBdisaster046-1.jpg


.

I think I got it down now. I'll see how it goes tomorrow. Funny thing, my dad's old neighbor came by to pick up some equipment we borrowed. He was surprised that a 17-year old could be capable of doing a job of this magnitude.