3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Hi, I have a 1997 Camry LE 2.2L 4cyl, with 86,000 mileage. I have a few questions about what steps to take regarding fixing an oil leak.
About eight months ago, I went into my shop for an oil change and my mechanic told me that I had an oil leak, but it wasn't major or a priority. The priority that day was replacing my radiator, which I did. I've just been monitoring the leak and I find that my oil is low if I wait 4-5 months for an oil change. I've decided to get the leak fixed now and pulled out my repair invoice. The notes on the repair invoice said "needs valve cover gasket and oil pump". Oil pump? WUWT? Again, I didn't speak with the mechanic about the leak at the time. Now I'm stressing. I figured the leak would just be a gasket or O-ring, like I've had on other cars. After reading some of the threads I'm thinking this might be a major repair.
Given that my car is a 4cyl, could this just be the oil pump seal and not the whole pump that needs to be replaced? If I do need to replace the oil pump, I'm assuming that it's one of those repairs that when you're in there, you replace the timing belt and water pump too. Am I correct? If I get one of those kits with the belt, water pump, gasket and seals, does that correct an oil pump problem or are they completely different parts?
I'm stressing b/c I wasn't sure if I was going to hold onto the car. I inherited it from my mom about a year ago and it seems like every 6 months I'm dropping $500-700 in addition to regular maintenance. I was also told that my AC compressor is going, so an additional $800 repair bill is looming in my future.
Top pan gasket is no big deal. Probably an hour or two labour. You are right about the oil pump and the timing belt, while you're in there you may as well do both. The oil pump is driven by the timing belt via a pulley. The timing belt kit only covers the timing belt and water pump service. The oil pump is a separate component, though it is right next to the water pump. If the oil pump shaft seal is the source of the leak, or the oil pump body-to-the-oil pump case O-ring, you can replace the oil pump body as a unit which will be ready to bolt on. It will have new bearings and seals and will come with a new O-ring. If it is the O-ring that is leaking, a new one can be bought, instead of the whole oil pump kit. You should go back to your mechanic and have the situation re-assessed. If it is a good garage, they should have no problem showing you where your leaks are while the car is on the lift.
__________________
1993 Toyota Camry V6 LE (200 HP, 195 ft/lbs tweaked) , 430,000 km's.
2002 Lexus GS 430 V8 VVT-i (300 HP, 325 ft/lbs) Luxury with Mark Levinson , 156,000 km's
2006 Lexus ES 330 V6 VVT-i (225 HP, 250 ft/lbs) Premium Luxury, Sport, Navigation with Mark Levinson , 140,000 km's
The Following User Says Thank You to camry6 For This Useful Post:
It always helps to get a second opinion. Maybe pay for an oil change at the dealer and ask about the oil leak. I'm not sure the particular service writer will charge extra however so call first.
If the symptom was oil leak, then asking to change the oil pump doesn't sound reasonable, unless he knew for sure the pump shaft was worn, and I'm not sure how he would without taking off the timing cover. The I4 pump has an o-ring for the pump body and an oil seal for the rotor shaft.
Now for the AC work you should find a reputable AC specialty shop. Maybe it's just low on freon after all those years.
Maybe you need a different mechanic?
Quote:
Originally Posted by cleogrl
Hi, I have a 1997 Camry LE 2.2L 4cyl, with 86,000 mileage. I have a few questions about what steps to take regarding fixing an oil leak.
About eight months ago, I went into my shop for an oil change and my mechanic told me that I had an oil leak, but it wasn't major or a priority. The priority that day was replacing my radiator, which I did. I've just been monitoring the leak and I find that my oil is low if I wait 4-5 months for an oil change. I've decided to get the leak fixed now and pulled out my repair invoice. The notes on the repair invoice said "needs valve cover gasket and oil pump". Oil pump? WUWT? Again, I didn't speak with the mechanic about the leak at the time. Now I'm stressing. I figured the leak would just be a gasket or O-ring, like I've had on other cars. After reading some of the threads I'm thinking this might be a major repair.
Given that my car is a 4cyl, could this just be the oil pump seal and not the whole pump that needs to be replaced? If I do need to replace the oil pump, I'm assuming that it's one of those repairs that when you're in there, you replace the timing belt and water pump too. Am I correct? If I get one of those kits with the belt, water pump, gasket and seals, does that correct an oil pump problem or are they completely different parts?
I'm stressing b/c I wasn't sure if I was going to hold onto the car. I inherited it from my mom about a year ago and it seems like every 6 months I'm dropping $500-700 in addition to regular maintenance. I was also told that my AC compressor is going, so an additional $800 repair bill is looming in my future.
Thank you.
Last edited by JohnGD; 01-05-2011 at 09:54 PM.
The Following User Says Thank You to JohnGD For This Useful Post:
Thank you so much for your comments. The mechanic has a good reputation. He's known as being a bit pricey, but good. I first used him 10 years ago, then moved away. The AC compressor I have known about for over a year. They told us the bearings are going. I've just been trying to baby it and hoping that it holds out until I decided whether to keep the car. When they mentioned the oil leak, I was only getting an oil change and the big repair that day was the radiator, so I'm sure no one took off a timing cover.
If it's only the clutch bearing it's a ~$40 part (plus labor of course). The clearance is tight but a mechanic should be able to remove it without discharging the system. So $800 IMO is out of line.
And after all these years you may need a complete evacuate/recharge. It's ~$100 and change the dryer too add ~$50. I use a local AC specialty shop. Their labor rate is $40/hr. Very reasonable. Before I found this shop you wouldn't believe the kind of things chain stores do to you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cleogrl
Thank you so much for your comments. The mechanic has a good reputation. He's known as being a bit pricey, but good. I first used him 10 years ago, then moved away. The AC compressor I have known about for over a year. They told us the bearings are going. I've just been trying to baby it and hoping that it holds out until I decided whether to keep the car. When they mentioned the oil leak, I was only getting an oil change and the big repair that day was the radiator, so I'm sure no one took off a timing cover.
If it's only the clutch bearing it's a ~$40 part (plus labor of course). The clearance is tight but a mechanic should be able to remove it without discharging the system. So $800 IMO is out of line.
And after all these years you may need a complete evacuate/recharge. It's ~$100 and change the dryer too add ~$50. I use a local AC specialty shop. Their labor rate is $40/hr. Very reasonable. Before I found this shop you wouldn't believe the kind of things chain stores do to you.
An A/C system is a hermetically sealed system that contains oil and refrigerant. If the system has had a leak and has been repaired properly or if it has been opened for any reason, the technician would have performed an evacuation, should have installed a new filter/drier and of course re-charged the system. If done properly, no further service to the refrigerant circuit is necessary. Time/mileage makes no difference to a hermetically sealed refrigeration system. If any compressor wear causes filings, then the filter/drier will handle that just fine. The oil will never wear out or sludge-up. The refrigerant gas will never wear out or degrade.....(as long as any repairs are done PROPERLY!) If your A/C is working fine and is not leaking, there is absolutely NO reason to service the refrigerant circuit.
__________________
1993 Toyota Camry V6 LE (200 HP, 195 ft/lbs tweaked) , 430,000 km's.
2002 Lexus GS 430 V8 VVT-i (300 HP, 325 ft/lbs) Luxury with Mark Levinson , 156,000 km's
2006 Lexus ES 330 V6 VVT-i (225 HP, 250 ft/lbs) Premium Luxury, Sport, Navigation with Mark Levinson , 140,000 km's
The major sections for the Camry I4 oil leaks are the VC gasket, Cam Seal, Crank Seal, Oil pump Seal, and/or the Oil Pump O ring. I have rarely in 30 years seen a Camry need an Oil Pump unless there has been tremendous amount of damgae to it. My first instinct is that it is the O ring and seal. As others have stated, if you plan on doing a T/belt it should get done with it.
Now, just as a note for your reference; In the event you need an A/C compressor, Toyota makes a compressor/clutch combo unit. MSRP on it is $544.71. I offer TN members 30% off MSRP and only charge actual shipping costs plus a couple of dollars. Before shipping, that would be $381.30.
Anyway, I threw that out there for you to have. If you have any questions, or need any information, please don't hesitate to ask.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cleogrl
Thank you so much for your comments. The mechanic has a good reputation. He's known as being a bit pricey, but good. I first used him 10 years ago, then moved away. The AC compressor I have known about for over a year. They told us the bearings are going. I've just been trying to baby it and hoping that it holds out until I decided whether to keep the car. When they mentioned the oil leak, I was only getting an oil change and the big repair that day was the radiator, so I'm sure no one took off a timing cover.
If any compressor wear causes filings, then the filter/drier will handle that just fine. The oil will never wear out or sludge-up. The refrigerant gas will never wear out or degrade.....(as long as any repairs are done PROPERLY!) If your A/C is working fine and is not leaking, there is absolutely NO reason to service the refrigerant circuit.
Thank you for the info about the AC system. I'm going to ask what I hope isn't a stupid question. Are you saying that if I get an evacuation/recharge performed on my AC I don't need to fix any else with it? Or do I need to fix whatever problem I currently have (my mech. said bearings) and then get this procedure done?
I have rarely in 30 years seen a Camry need an Oil Pump unless there has been tremendous amount of damgae to it. My first instinct is that it is the O ring and seal. As others have stated, if you plan on doing a T/belt it should get done with it.
Thank you for taking the time out to reply. I'm not stressing as much. Now I guess I have to decide how much money I want to put into it. Thank you also for the price info about the AC part.
Thank you for the info about the AC system. I'm going to ask what I hope isn't a stupid question. Are you saying that if I get an evacuation/recharge performed on my AC I don't need to fix any else with it? Or do I need to fix whatever problem I currently have (my mech. said bearings) and then get this procedure done?
The only stupid question is one that's not asked .
If the bearing in the clutch is the culprit, that is an external part and can hopefully be replaced without having to open the refrigerant circuit, in which case an evacuation/recharge won't be necessary. If there are internal bearing problems (inside the compressor), then it will be necessary to replace the compressor as a whole unit (this would require an evacuation/recharge).
I am willing to bet that your mechanic was referring to the clutch bearing. If you can hear a noise from the A/C compressor when the A/C is off, and it goes away when the A/C cuts in, then the clutch bearing is the culprit (clutch/bearing replacement is necessary, evacuation/recharge NOT necessary IF the clutch can be repaired with the compressor still in the car).
On the flip side, If the compressor is noisy when the A/C is cut in and quiet when the A/C is off, then the problem is internal (meaning complete replacement of the compressor and a evacuation/recharge WILL be necessary)
Good luck!
__________________
1993 Toyota Camry V6 LE (200 HP, 195 ft/lbs tweaked) , 430,000 km's.
2002 Lexus GS 430 V8 VVT-i (300 HP, 325 ft/lbs) Luxury with Mark Levinson , 156,000 km's
2006 Lexus ES 330 V6 VVT-i (225 HP, 250 ft/lbs) Premium Luxury, Sport, Navigation with Mark Levinson , 140,000 km's
The Following User Says Thank You to camry6 For This Useful Post:
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