Brake line problem

[Lash70]

I have '93 Camry with the V6 and one of the steel lines is leaking under that car in the plastic shield.

I have the shield removed but I am having trouble finding the ends of the line as to how I can remove it to splice it.

Can anyone help with my dilemma?

Thanks in advance.

[Yuko]

Is it the lines that run to the rear brake? I believe it's one steel line that start from the proportioning valve (or ABS unit) and runs all the way to the rear brake hoses, A PITA to replace. The best and safest way is to cut out the bad section, flare the ends of the old and replacement lines, install with new nuts/connectors, and bleed the brakes.

But I had the same problem on my father's 1995 Quest and I took the cheap route than most people will flame of me for. I got new brake lines and compression fittings to patch up the damage section. The van only worth KBB $850 and a shop wanted $700 to replace the two rear brake lines. You do what you got to do and after two years it still held up great. But I heard it's unsafe to use compression fitting on ABS vehicles because of the pulsation so compression fitting are "NOT" recommended for brake systems.

[Lash70]

Yuko,

Yes it is the steel line going to the rear caliper.

I just have one question, how do I go about cutting the line without damaging it since I don't have room to get a tubing cutter in there...

Thanks for the help

[JohnGD]

Check your local dealer first for a pre-bent brake line. By the time you bought the tools, a segment of steel line, and couplers, you might as well buy the plug-and-play brake line from the dealer.

Use flare nut wrenches, like:
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...set-99993.html

Originally Posted by Lash70

Yuko,

Yes it is the steel line going to the rear caliper.

I just have one question, how do I go about cutting the line without damaging it since I don't have room to get a tubing cutter in there...

Thanks for the help

[Yuko]

Originally Posted by Lash70

I just have one question, how do I go about cutting the line without damaging it since I don't have room to get a tubing cutter in there...

Thanks for the help

I just pulled the brake line down a bit and worked a small tube cutter back and forward to cut it; took a while. I know the lines run very close to the body/frame with limited room. That's one reason I gave up trying to flare it (Note: If you plan to flare the lines, don't forget to put the nut on the line first; I forget ) Give a couple extra inches of brake line to work with and room to bend it back. Bleed the lines and finish it with some hi-temp paint. Also, don't let the master run dry as you cut open the lines. Fill it up every 5-10 minute. For me, it's a pain to bleed the master cylinder and ABS unit.

JohnGD's idea of an entire replacement line is good but sometime the factory lines can run through the dumbest places. For example, on the 1995 Quest I worked on, the line that rusted out was between the frame and the lower A-arm subframe mount. I had to remove the entire driver-side lower suspension to fix two lines. Also, the dealership isn't the cheapest place for parts but check first. Either way you go (patch or complete replacement) is better than a leaking brake system.

DO use a flare nut wrench as JohnGD suggested. I tried loosening a brake line nut on a junked Camry with a regular open-end wrench and it tore the nut up, even Vise-grip damage the nut. A flare nut wrench (I call them brake line wrench) holds 5 sides of the nut and save a lot of headaches. I believe you can borrow a loaner set from some auto part stores.

Best of luck on your repair and take your time, nothing is worse than a failed braking system due to a rushed job.