3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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Question for Anyone who's done audio work on a Gen 4
Hey TN!
So for a while now I've wanted to put some subs in my 97 camry. One of my friends from work heard this and was talking with her boyfriend. He had an alpine amp he didnt want and a sub box that fits 2 10" subs laying around from his old car and decided since I'm looking at doing it I can have them for free! As you can imagine i of course took them and for sometime have been looking for subs to put in the box and then start the whole project My friend said her boyfriend is just holding onto the subs that were for that setup and will probably sell them to me if I just hold out. So of course I did . This past month he said he would sell them to me for 60$ and do installation if I would help him. I was soo happy and this past week i went of and paid him for the subs and we started to get to work. We put the subs in the box and when we went to start wiring the amp thats when we hit a wall... literally when he was looking for the "gap" in the firewall under the stearing wheel so that he could wire a power to the amp he couldn't seem to find one . He said that I'd have to drill a hole through it and he came to that conclusion due to the fact that when I got my remote start system installed they had to he can see that they had to drill a hole for them to get to the engine bay.
Long story short I know many of you out there have put subs and an amp in you Camry's specifically the Gen4's. So is drilling a hole the only solution to this problem or is there something the shop that installed my remote start and my friend missed when they were trying to do this?
Thanks for you time!
~Kyle
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Body: Body Kit[X] Spoiler[X] Rims[X] Exhaust[X] Headlights[X] Taillights[] Tint [X] Performance: Supercharger[] Air Intake[] Suspension[] *>DIY Gen4 Cluster LED Swap<* CarDomain
I think it should be the same as the gen 3 in which case you have to remove the driver side inner fender well shroud to access the hole in the firewall. The wires will come thru up under the dash behind the kick panel or in that general area.
Hope this helps,
Greg
How do you run things through the firewall? Remove the driver's side front wheel and fender liner (black plastic.) Look up. Oh joy, a wiring harness boot that runs from the firewall into the engine bay! You can usually tap into that and run wires through the firewall that way. It comes out near the throttle wire. You might need to remove the driver's side kick panel and peel back the carpet.
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'07 Honda Ruckus Big Bore TOTALED: '03 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4x4 5.4L, '96 Camry LE 5S May '10: '11 Sienna V6 XLE FWD 8-pass. July '10: '06 Matrix XR Auto FWD Oct. '09: '05 RAV-4 L 4WD
The Following User Says Thank You to LynchburgCSI For This Useful Post:
On my Gen 4, I have the amp power wire running down the side of the engine bay and then it runs to the door gap (the wire doesn't get pinched). Then I have the wire running through the little rubber grommet where all the power windows, locks, etc. run through.
^ I use to have mine setup that way, but I WOULD NOT recommended that. Heaven forbid something wore out and touched the metal of the car.
That being said... PLEASEEEEE use wire loom to tidy up your wiring. It's only a few bucks and it makes the wiring install look factory. I'm speaking from live and learn experience here.
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'07 Honda Ruckus Big Bore TOTALED: '03 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4x4 5.4L, '96 Camry LE 5S May '10: '11 Sienna V6 XLE FWD 8-pass. July '10: '06 Matrix XR Auto FWD Oct. '09: '05 RAV-4 L 4WD
On my Gen 4, I have the amp power wire running down the side of the engine bay and then it runs to the door gap (the wire doesn't get pinched). Then I have the wire running through the little rubber grommet where all the power windows, locks, etc. run through.
NEVER run the power wire there. like lynchburg said it would NOT be good if that wire wore out and touched metal. mine use to be set up like that and i changed it as soon as i got a hole drilled. and if the wire got pinched it could cause your system to cut out. best bet is to take your car up to an audio shop and get them to drill a hole. i spent hours trying to run it through the hole the other wires were running through. they didnt charge me anything at all and actually gave me some good ideas on how to set my system up. if you need any help feel free to message me ive gone through over a year of trial and error before i finally figured it all out
The Following User Says Thank You to wswanson For This Useful Post:
NEVER run the power wire there. like lynchburg said it would NOT be good if that wire wore out and touched metal. mine use to be set up like that and i changed it as soon as i got a hole drilled. and if the wire got pinched it could cause your system to cut out. best bet is to take your car up to an audio shop and get them to drill a hole. i spent hours trying to run it through the hole the other wires were running through. they didnt charge me anything at all and actually gave me some good ideas on how to set my system up. if you need any help feel free to message me ive gone through over a year of trial and error before i finally figured it all out
Thanks! i Definitly will do that! I'll go too the guy i got my rims from, they do audio as well and said they'd hook me up if i wanted so I hit em up!
~Kyle
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Body: Body Kit[X] Spoiler[X] Rims[X] Exhaust[X] Headlights[X] Taillights[] Tint [X] Performance: Supercharger[] Air Intake[] Suspension[] *>DIY Gen4 Cluster LED Swap<* CarDomain
'07 Honda Ruckus Big Bore TOTALED: '03 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4x4 5.4L, '96 Camry LE 5S May '10: '11 Sienna V6 XLE FWD 8-pass. July '10: '06 Matrix XR Auto FWD Oct. '09: '05 RAV-4 L 4WD
Make sure if you drill a hole, you use a rubber grommet or something to make sure the metal doesn't cut the wire.
very true. the audio place will probably give you a grommet if they drill the hole for you. id also recomend buying an amp kit from an audio store. the ones from walmart are POS
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