Help replacing gen 4 camry egr vsv - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 01-17-2011, 06:54 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Help replacing gen 4 camry egr vsv

Howdy guys, recently began to get the p0401 code on my 1999 toyota camry (4 cylinder standard), and I'm already over inspection so I need to get this fixed quickly. Anyway I went through the diagnostics set out in Haynes manual and my egr valve holds vacuum, modulator seems to be fine. So I pinpointed it down to the vsv, got the car on blocks and for the life of me can barely see it, never mind unbolt it and get it out. Is there a special trick? There seems to be one bolt I could get off but I don't see any others. This is my first in depth repair like this so any help would be greatly appreciated! Theres not much for 4 cylinder tutorials on the web. Also my brake light has been on for the past 3 months even though brake fluid level is almost at max and emergency brake is down, any ideas?
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Old 01-17-2011, 01:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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On my 5SFE it is attached to a small bracket which is held onto the back of the block by a single bolt. I found that the easiest way to access it was from the passenger side wheel well. You'll probably have to remove the plastic guard to gain access. The space is pretty limited so you probably won't be able to get your hand up there and look at the same time. Use a flashlight to locate the VSV and make a mental note of where it is before diving in and feeling around with your socket wrench - I'm pretty sure it's a 12mm bolt. Getting it bolted back on is even more enjoyable

Make sure to test the VSV to be sure it is faulty before replacing it. You should be testing for vacuum leakage, resistance of the coil, and proper functioning of the valve (should make a clicking sound signifying that the valve is opening when you apply 12 volts to the coil).
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Old 01-17-2011, 01:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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you need to have the car on jack stands and remove the passenger wheel and fender apron (piece of thick flat plastic) and get the access through there. there is no way to easily access it neither from bottom nor from top.
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Old 01-17-2011, 02:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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And once removed maybe mount it back onto the firewall like a member did.
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Old 01-17-2011, 03:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by JohnGD View Post
And once removed maybe mount it back onto the firewall like a member did.
+1 that's kind of what i did except i had an extra bolt so I was able to mount it along side the old one and plug in the connector. No need to spend a lot of time trying to get the old one off.
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Old 01-17-2011, 03:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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And once removed maybe mount it back onto the firewall like a member did.
Yea I thought about doing this. What in the hell were they thinking when they decided to throw the VSV down on the block? Perhaps they had a surplus of vacuum line? Or maybe they outsourced that part of the design to GM . . .
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Old 01-17-2011, 04:05 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Wow, thanks a lot guys! Studying for midterms this week so I'm going to have to wait till the weekend (and make sure no cop sees my 3 month overdue sticker ) This is my first big car fix so lets hope it goes well, anyone have ideas why my brake light would be on? (even though my reservoir is full and emergency brake is down)
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Old 02-15-2011, 02:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
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anyone have ideas why my brake light would be on? (even though my reservoir is full and emergency brake is down)
Probably because you have a brake light that is burnt out...

Don't forget to check for burnt out brake lights while the brake pedal is depressed too.
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