Gen IV Timing Belt Replacement - You Can Do It! - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

cybrslider · 01-17-2011, 09:57 AM

Well, just did my first timing belt replacement. I have to say, it was much easier than I thought. Much, much easier.

Now, it does take some time because you have to remove the alternator, etc. Some of the bolts are difficult to get to. Those that are difficult to get to are sometimes very long bolts as well. That's where all the time comes in - getting the covers off and back on. The actual timing belt replacement is very simple.

I regard myself as an average DIYer. Maybe slightly above average because I worked in an automotive machine shop for years, which gives me a slight advantage. I did not want to do this job myself though. After reading all the DIY posts, etc. I thought I would just have a dealer/local garage to the job. But, I did it myself. It cost about $125 bucks.

I did not replace the crank or cam seals, nor did I remove and replace the oil pump gasket o-ring. Engine only has 79K miles on it. The belt and tensioner were actually still good - it was the water pump that was making all the noise. I replaced the belt and pulleys anyway.

Getting the belt on exactly is about the only difficulty. I got the belt on a "tooth" off 3 times. First time I buttoned everything back up before I tried it. Had to take everything back apart. Take my advice - secure the alternator so it won't fall and button up the bottom cover only, then fire the engine up - if it's a tooth off, you don't have to remove anything to get the belt off the cam and re-align.

Time? I spent about 8 hours to complete the job the first time. The belt was a tooth off and I had to start all over again. I think I could do this job (as I did it, not replacing seals if they don't need it, etc.) in 3 to 4 hours now. Replacing the cam/crank seals and doing oil pump work would increase the time.

Honestly, if I can do it, I suspect most anyone that is handy can!

Mr.Nutcase · 01-17-2011, 10:53 AM

You should have replaced crank or camshaft seals, oil pump gasket o-ring, and the oil pump seal.....
Why? Its a good time....

cybrslider · 01-17-2011, 11:05 AM

Didn't need them.

Mr.Nutcase · 01-17-2011, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cybrslider

Didn't need them.

I know dont need them, but since you have engine ripped open, why not replace them....... You want to do it again, plus the parts are not expensive, Felpro has set that comes with oil pump oring, oil pump seal, crankshaft seal, and the oil pump body gasket....
Cam seal is not expensive..........

doozergreengrass · 01-17-2011, 07:17 PM

Quote:

I know dont need them, but since you have engine ripped open, why not replace them....... You want to do it again, plus the parts are not expensive, Felpro has set that comes with oil pump oring, oil pump seal, crankshaft seal, and the oil pump body gasket....
Cam seal is not expensive..........

Maybe OP couldn't be bothered if everything was ok. And with his newly acquired skills, as he said he can do all that easily next time now he knows the procedure. We don't all have unlimited time to work on our vehicles!

Chris Crash · 01-17-2011, 09:19 PM

If a seal is not leaking, I leave it alone. I'd rather not put one of those seals in incorrectly and then have to do it again because I couldn't just leave it alone.

dave1811 · 01-17-2011, 10:44 PM

I am with Chris about not messing with the seals if they aren't leaking. I did this TB/WP job myself this weekend on mine. Took me about the same time. Getting the lower support bolts off was one of the harder parts and also getting the new timing belt back on was the hardest part. Mine was tighter then the old one and was one tooth off and I couldn't get it to stretch much more. I finally solved this problem by getting my son to help me and we took the tensioner pulley off and then ran the belt, put the tensioner pulley back on as we pressed up on the belt. Went on pretty easy then. I tried the trick this time also of using some plastic ties on the cam pulley I saw on a Lexus forum to keep the belt from slipping, which worked great! After I got the belt on and lined up, cut off the plastic ties, spun it around around at least two full revolutions and the cam and crank marks were spot on. Then started it up and purred like a kitten. My oil was leaking from the oil pump seal so I took that one off and put in a new oil seal and oil pump o ring gasket. My larger oil leak I found though was from the valve cover, which I wanted to take off anyway and inspect for sludge, which wasn't that bad. The cam and crank weren't leaking so I left them as is. Will see if I regret it later but at 166k miles, I figure I can cut the time in half next time. My old belt had about 3-4 inches you could push down between the cam pulley and water pulley. It was also missing one tooth it. Got to drink a beer when it was done though!

Dave

cybrslider · 01-18-2011, 07:54 AM

Yeah, those lower bolts on the mount that the "dog bone" bolts too were tough to get to. I had read about using the plastic ties for holding the belt in place. I didn't have to do that though - didn't have a problem getting the belt on.

I was off a tooth in timing though because the non-tensioner side of the belt, after I got it on, had slack. When I turned the crank, that slack got taken up first - then the assembly began to turn. I'm pretty sure that's what through it off. But, as long as the engine was at TDC correctly, all that is required is to turn the crank over twice back to TDC, then align the hole in the cam gear with the mark on the head and viola, you are back in business.

As for the oil seals - they weren't leaking and were still in good shape. Even though this job can be a real PTIA, to me it really isn't an "engine ripped open" type of job. If the seals start leaking, I'll deal with it. Other than that, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

David