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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 01-17-2011, 10:04 AM   #1 (permalink)
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2000 Camry won't start.

Howdy guys.
Here is my problem. 2000 camry 4 cyl, 135K on it.
Pretty new spark plugs and wires, maybe 5-7K miles on them, battery is good too, terminals are clean of oxidation.
Time to time, happened twice within 4 days, car doesn’t want to start in the morning. First time I was around and hood was opened, when my wife started the car, I’ve heard one pretty loud click and then nothing, no engine started, no more clicking.
I told my wife to pull key out of lock and looked under the hood. Didn’t see nothing suspicious. When I tried to start a minute later, it started right away, with no problems. After 2-3 min. I turned it off and started again.All good.
I’ve checked main fuses, all good.
This morning same story happened again. No start at first try, but after 3-rd try it started.
I’ve looked couple treads, didn’t see anything close to my case.
What it could be? Starter? But why it started after 2nd-3rd try?
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Old 01-17-2011, 10:28 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Sounds like the starter contacts are worn out. You can get a starter repair kit at your local dealer.

Here is a DIY:
Starter Solenoid Contacts Replacement DIY (2000 I4)

Part Numbers:
28226-74070 Toyota Of Dallas->$10.50
28226-64370 Toyota Of Dallas->$5.63
You might want to get the Switch Cover gasket as it might be brittle and old.
28175-55050 Toyota Of Dallas->$1.28
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Old 01-17-2011, 10:50 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks alot. this will help alot.
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Old 01-17-2011, 11:19 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Check your ground wires too. If in the past, the battery hasn't been maintained for checked regularly, the battery acid leaking out could actually eat through the wires even after you cleaned and replaced the battery. The ground wires are connected to your terminals and they're easy to fix by just cutting off the bad area and then placing the wire back to the terminals. I've had that problem couple days back and found out about it. I might need to buy some new wires though as it seems risky to keep.
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Old 01-17-2011, 12:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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hey guys,I not really want to rebuilt my starter, looked on ebay and parts stores, for $60-70 I can get Remanufactured Starter and 1 year warranty.
But some of them listed as a 1.2KW, others 1.4KW -all listed for my 2000 2.2 camry. Called couple ebay stores: both said 1.2 and 1.4KW will work fine on my car.How do I find out which one do I need, or they all the same and it just sellers mistake?
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Old 01-17-2011, 12:36 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Personally I'd get one from a local auto parts store before I got one from anybody on ebay. Even with a warranty it isn't going to be easy to get it replaced by them if it goes bad.
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Old 01-17-2011, 12:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Personally I'd get one from a local auto parts store before I got one from anybody on ebay. Even with a warranty it isn't going to be easy to get it replaced by them if it goes bad.
I agree, but difference in price at least $100 even after core charge.
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Old 01-17-2011, 04:30 PM   #8 (permalink)
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well,it happened again. And this time no lights turned on, car was dead completely.
I tapped starter couple times-nothing.
But after couple minutes and tries it started fine.
I looked on TN couple more treads, looks like bad ignition lock.
Never disassembled them before, but I read that there is two parts in it: lock and electrical switch on the back of the lock, part which goes bad more often then lock.
Lock works fine, key never been stock, cilinder rotates fine too.
Anybody knows anything about that part? Much easier to replace this switch than all locks in the car.
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Old 01-17-2011, 05:51 PM   #9 (permalink)
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"And this time no lights turned on, car was dead completely."

Although the 1 click and no start usually indicates bad contacts inside the starter's solenoid, what you are descrbing now sounds more like a battery with a dead cell or corroded contacts at the battery posts/terminals. I would first have the battery tested. Places like Autozone will come out to your car and test the battery and charging system for free. If that checks out fine, I would purchase one of those cheap battery posts/terminal cleaners for a few dollars and clean both up. If that doesn't solve the problem, I would look again at the starter contacts.

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Old 01-17-2011, 08:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
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terminals were looking good, but I still cleaned them after work with plumber brush and covered them with protective grease after.
start it couple times, all good. Ignition lock feels loose, there is play in all directions, but it hard to locate problem if it dissipated...
well, hope for good.

if not, next would be starter check up and lock. hope it's a starter, ignition lock would be more expensive and harder to fix problem.
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Old 01-17-2011, 08:35 PM   #11 (permalink)
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on top of what Mike mentioned ( I had that issue too, it was a loose positive wire going to starter from positive battery post in my case), it might be also your ignition cylinder contacts worn out (or worn key mismatch) or the car's immobilizer/anti-theft system (if any) doesn't recognize the key (transponder in it).
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Old 01-17-2011, 10:59 PM   #12 (permalink)
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4th Generation

I have the same suspect as the battery. On the lovely GM side terminal battery, I had a battery for around a year or more and apparently, I overtightened the bolt on the side mount and broke the terminal inside the battery. It just spun freely. Not saying that is your problem obviously since it is a top mount but you never know. Just another thing to check on......

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Old 01-18-2011, 09:36 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
on top of what Mike mentioned ( I had that issue too, it was a loose positive wire going to starter from positive battery post in my case), it might be also your ignition cylinder contacts worn out (or worn key mismatch) or the car's immobilizer/anti-theft system (if any) doesn't recognize the key (transponder in it).
like I said, ignition cylinder got play in all directions, on my 2007 it tight, no play at all,
so very possible that cylinder is bad.
all wires on starter tight too,I checked them.
Car has no immobilizer/anti-theft, it is LE with VIP toyota system, but no immobilazer.
And becouse last time all power went off, I got only one suspect-ignition lock.
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Old 01-18-2011, 09:44 AM   #14 (permalink)
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have the same suspect as the battery. On the lovely GM side terminal battery, I had
Quote:
a battery for around a year or more and apparently, I overtightened the bolt on the side mount and broke the terminal inside the battery. It just spun freely. Not saying that is your problem obviously since it is a top mount but you never know. Just another thing to check on......
no, my posts a good.I cleaned them yesterday , just in case. no oxidation anywhere, it not a problem in TX.
I 've seen broken post, even top mounted, on Interstate batteries, no bad feelings please, but I'm started using Everystart long time ago, and even on old batteries never seen broken posts.
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Old 01-19-2011, 08:06 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I had a problem with my ignition a while back, I took the key out one day and everything stopped working, dome lights, headlights, power locks, everything. Then I moved the tilt wheel up and down and everything started working again. It did this to me I think twice, but I haven't had any problems since then and that was about 3 months ago. Next time it stops working, try moving the tilt wheel, maybe its just a pinched or broken wire that can't make good contact.
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