3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Hi sorry for the length have never posted and don't know how detailed this needs to be.
Just thought I would try and get some answers about my 99 Camry before I take it to get checked out again. Long distance rather not drive it if going to cause more problems.
Since I can remember check engine light has come on then goes off -does not matter if turn car off then restart will just turn off and on. Wife usually drives car and has not had problems. She said it was check before I was in picture and "they" said it was fine.
Last month she was driving and car began to run very rough and engine light started to blink. When I drove it when I got home could not get it to repeat problem. Thinking was bad gas or the like. Used some fuel injector/fuel conditioner (Lucus).
Wanted to check it out with someone so took it down to dealer. Codes that were in computer but not on at the time were P0301 and P1705.
Since could not reproduce any symptoms didn't "fix" anything Speed sensor (P1705) I was going to take care of when I flushed trans fluid next coming up soon.
Until now. Started to act up again --when I drive it. Will only cause engine light to blink when accelerating up a hill on the highway kind of feels like going over a little cattle gaurd. Upon leveling out --light will not flash but will stay on car runs smooth. Could not get to reproduce at park --engine seems to run very smooth at idle and when giving it gas.
I also feel some "roughness" when starting from stop but again once shifts smooth. No engine light blinks at this point.
Any thoughts does this sound similar to any problems. Do I have a transmission problem or engine? I think it is an electrical problem but don't know what.
when was the last time you replaced your spark plugs?
spark plug wires?
also inspect the ignition coil for cracks and get an ohm meter to check the resistance of the coil
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^ and leaving it that way!
^ What chronoti said above. Most missfires are caused by faulty ignition system components. Weak ignition system components will act up when under load, usually when accelerating. This seems to be what you are describing. If the spark plugs have less than 50,000 miles on them (you don't say) I would first suspect the spark plug wire to the number 1 spark plug. If you have access to a digital volt/ohmeter, remove that spark plug wire and inspect it for continuity.
Wires can look fine but have an internal break causing a missfire. There's no way you can tell how they are just by looking at them. You have to used a digital volt/ohmeter to check them for resistance/continuity. As far as the spark plugs, did they actually pull that number 1 plug and inspect it?
What settings should be used on digital multimeter to check if leads are ok? What should the reading be?
In the old days we used to use an approximate spec of 7000 ohms of resistance per foot of length. However, most manuals give an exact spec. Sommtimes you can not get any reading. Then I would also check for continuity using the ohm meter. Chances are you will still not get a reading. This indicates a break internally in the wire. Sometimes the spark going through the wire will jump the gap (break) in the wire and continue on to fire the plug and sometimes not. In the case of not, it's usually under load as when accelerating or going up a hill. Really depends on how big of a gap (break) is inside the wire.
Mike
The Following User Says Thank You to Mike Gerber For This Useful Post:
I checked with ohms setting on multimeter at 20k was not exactly sure if that was correct didn't seem to match with the numbers that have been described above they were as follows
#1 14.93
#3 18.54
#5 16.20
From other things i have read to seems that these numbers don't match. Increased length of wire should have higher reading correct?
Also called the dealer again about problem. They said that they pulled the spark plug, but what should I be looking for if I pull it and check it?
The dealer suggested taking care of the P1705 Code or the transmission speed sensor first as it might be sending a bad "message" to the computer and may be the reason for the misfire or rough running problem.
That sounds like a long shot to me. Is it valid? Just don't want to get in to deep with spending money on the car might be better to move it along but if it is something that can be fixed I'm all for it.
Check this thread about the direct clutch speed sensor. It's on the top of the transmission case. Maybe dirtied up. Remove it and check for metal shavings stuck on it. It's a simple pickup sensor so really shouldn't go bad:
I checked with ohms setting on multimeter at 20k was not exactly sure if that was correct didn't seem to match with the numbers that have been described above they were as follows
#1 14.93
#3 18.54
#5 16.20
From other things i have read to seems that these numbers don't match. Increased length of wire should have higher reading correct?
Also called the dealer again about problem. They said that they pulled the spark plug, but what should I be looking for if I pull it and check it?
The dealer suggested taking care of the P1705 Code or the transmission speed sensor first as it might be sending a bad "message" to the computer and may be the reason for the misfire or rough running problem.
That sounds like a long shot to me. Is it valid? Just don't want to get in to deep with spending money on the car might be better to move it along but if it is something that can be fixed I'm all for it.
I checked that link out and tested the Clutch Speed sensor. Did not notice any metal shaving on the sensor. The sensor itself seemed to check within normal limilts for the resistance and the voltage.
One question I had was the terminals to the EMC. Is the EMC the plug that connects to the sensor? I tested that and could not get the resistance that was in the range. I got nothing when touching the terminals on the 2000 setting on the meter.
Pulled the plugs on the #1 and #4 ( the front center ) I wanted to post a picture to get an opinion on them. Can I post the pics on the forum?
Well found out what the EMC is. But not sure if I was testing the resistance in the correct place. Was not sure in the NC2+ and NC2- terminals were located according to the diagram posted at the following link.
Posted some pictures of the #1 plug and #2 plug to the camry. Should beable to click on little camera under my profile to see them.
#1 looked a little different
#2 had some white deposit on it and #4 plug looked the same. Don't know if dealer cleaned off #1 when it was pulled to check. Any diagnostic info that can be gained.
I have some new double plat on the way but don't want to put them in if there is a larger underlying problem without fixing it.
Those plugs definitely look very worn. This would increase the gap and could be causing the miss, as the spark has a difficult time jumping the elongated gap. How long have they been in there? I believe the recommended change interval is 60,000 miles. Install the new plugs when you get them and let us know the results.
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