01 Solara Manual Tranny Problems

[jobodizo]

Hey Everybody,

I've owned my 01 Solara, V6, 5spd for about 1.5yrs now and I can't seem to get rid of a persistent nagging problem:

Since I've owned the car, I've had problems with rough shifting. If I'm doing a rolling stop and shift into first, the car often fights me or clunks into place. The same goes for ALL gears if it's especially cold outside. More often than anything, I will get an occasional gear grind (light, more feel through the shifter than hear) going into 3rd or 4th gear.

All of this started shortly after I got the car. Initially it was a clutch pedal that was spongy near the floor. Bled the slave and travel seemed to equalize. I thought maybe the issues were wearing synchros, so I drained the gear box and filled it with ridiculously expensive Royal Purple. Unfortunately that seemed to help very little, but maybe a little.

Newest symptoms: never seems to do it when I'm driving aggressively. Never seems to do it when I kick the clutch pedal to the floor instead of pushing. I've checked the master and slave cylinders: no fluid on/around slave, maybe a drop under the master but the level is still filled to the brim and I haven't added anything for ~a year.

Any help would be appreciated...I'd HATE to have to pay somebody to "diagnose" it by replacing everything.

[fenixus]

what fluid the transmission was/is running on? how often was the oil changed?

[JohnGD]

So when you stomp on the pedal everything worked better?

I'd check the clutch hydraulic system first then. The brake fluid is at the max mark, not literally to the brim, right?

[Gothmog3VZ]

first gear clunking is because 1st is unsynchronized - I noticed the same thing, but I just rev-match when I need to engine brake.

As for the feel when it's cold outside, it's normal. Your synchros are a lot less "grippy" when cold, and the cables are much stiffer, so the feel will be odd. should go away once the car has properly warmed up (I noticed it yesterday going to the pump - car sat outside all day, it was -23*).

gear grind is usually related to a clutch that's not fully disengaged, so check the hydraulics, as stated

[JohnGD]

hehehe E153 should be fully synchronized. Yes, they do like to turn into non-synchronized transmissions later.

[jtex2717]

try Redline Shockproof Lightweight for tranny fluid. The MR2 guys swear by this stuff and it actually works. It should fix all of ur symptoms...

[jobodizo]

Thanks for all of the replies. To answer the questions above:

When I say to the brim, I mean to the max fill line. The cold is understandable, I'll start giving it more time to warm up in the morning. Might wait on the Shockproof...I'm in the midwest and the temp's not THAT bad. The Purple was 75-90 I think, whatever the manual specified in the back...before 1yr ago I can't say.

Is there a way to check the hydraulics individually before I start replacing? You guys'll have to forgive me, but I'm used to 40+ yo Fords w/ springs. Obviously the slave moving with the pedal I've got...anything beyond that?

I should also mention that back in the summer the buzzing seemed to get worse as I got closer to home in the afternoons (hotter in the day and just came off the interstate).

[JohnGD]

75W90 should be just fine. Or try Valvoline's SynPower fully synthetic 75W-90 gear oil.

If there is no air in the hydraulic system, and the piston cups aren't leaking, then I suspect improper clutch release being a reason for the gear clashes. This can be an adjustment problem or the clutch disc is wearing thin, causing the diaphragm spring to move out toward the slave piston. I don't know for sure, just guessing.

But since you said stomping on the pedal makes it work fine, it's like stomping on failing brakes trying to get some pressure. Just my 2 cents.

Originally Posted by jobodizo

Thanks for all of the replies. To answer the questions above:

When I say to the brim, I mean to the max fill line. The cold is understandable, I'll start giving it more time to warm up in the morning. Might wait on the Shockproof...I'm in the midwest and the temp's not THAT bad. The Purple was 75-90 I think, whatever the manual specified in the back...before 1yr ago I can't say.

Is there a way to check the hydraulics individually before I start replacing? You guys'll have to forgive me, but I'm used to 40+ yo Fords w/ springs. Obviously the slave moving with the pedal I've got...anything beyond that?

I should also mention that back in the summer the buzzing seemed to get worse as I got closer to home in the afternoons (hotter in the day and just came off the interstate).