3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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1992 Toyota Camry. A/C doesn't work. Compressor and lines are leaking R12. My mechanic told me to fix and convert to the new freon would be $900. I trust my mechanic, but that seems a bit excessive. I have heard that mechanics, when they don't really want the work, will quote an outrageous price so as to keep the work out of their shop but still keep you as a client. Input?
Yes, some do that higher price to scare you off but will laugh all the way to the bank if you bite type of crap.
If you need to get a new/rebuilt compressor and lines then that's probably not too bad. Ford owners with those POS cheesy garter spring connectors can spend about $2000.
Make sure he gets you a Denso rebuilt compressor. I don't care for Denso spark plugs, but their mechanical spinning stuff (alternators, starters, compressors) are decent.
A/C doesn't work. Compressor and lines are leaking R12.
Compressor is probably shaft seal, lines will be o-ring seals. There is a lot of labor getting at all the connections, especially under the dash at the evaporator. Once the seals are fixed you may find the evaporator or condenser also need repair. The $900 figure may be high because the mechanic can't know the final outcome.
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My mechanic told me to fix and convert to the new freon
What does he mean by "new" freon? If R134a then it may not be the best as your system was designed for R12. There are better replacements, Freeze12 and Enviro-Safe. I have no experience with Freeze12 but have used Enviro-Safe with excellent results and as cold as R12. But you need the tools and experience, so I'd pay a professional if you have the money.
Maybe it's time to look for a new car or roll the windows down.
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
I replaced my condenser, all the o-rings on the condenser lines, and the dryer myself. It was very easy and took about 2 hours. The o-rings cost about 10 cents a piece. Just do the work yourself and take it in the a shop to have them charge the system back up. My mechanic charged me around 40 dollars to oil and recharge the system. Works like a champ. Even replacing the compressor isn't that hard, but the part is going to be pricey. My advice is go to a junkyard and look for a reman or newer one there.
You can DIY very easily. The highest price item you will have to purchase is the Vacuum pump. Make sure if you do DIY, to evacuate the system properly before removing any lines with the vacuum pump! The AC System holds a lot of pressure and can blow oil and high pressure Freon which can harm you. It is also illegal to Evacuate Freon into the atmosphere.
Also if you DIY, I would recommend running Florescent dye in the AC system and use a black light if you don't replace any O-Rings in the lines themselves to make sure your not leaking any freon out the connections.
1992 Toyota Camry. A/C doesn't work. Compressor and lines are leaking R12. My mechanic told me to fix and convert to the new freon would be $900. I trust my mechanic, but that seems a bit excessive. I have heard that mechanics, when they don't really want the work, will quote an outrageous price so as to keep the work out of their shop but still keep you as a client. Input?
I rebuild my A/C system myself in March 2005. 1995 Camry LE 5Sfe 4 cyl. First time I ever did any type A/C work on a car. Local shop said evaporator and compressor was bad Total $1800. When home changed my underwear and started shopping. First find an A/C supply house that will sell you parts. - Example Compressor new w/ clutch new, from Advance auto Parts $518.00 from A/C Parts of Ocala both new 2 yr warrant $239.00 brand Denso. Big difference. Important per old A/C guy – when you vac. down the system – let it set for 24 hours – something a shop can’t or want do, check to see that it held vac. Then vac. down for 15 – 20 mins. again before adding the 134a. Use a T where the can line meets the vac. hose, and purge the line before fill this way you have given the system 24 hrs to boil off any moisture and you get no line air back into the system. The evaporator and expansion valve under dash are easy on the Camry – glove box dr. blower for clearance. Seat for working room -4 bolts, side console panel and there it is. Note: Flush all lines with A/C flush – Clean is of up most importance- all new o-rings lubed w/ A/C o-ring lube. I replaced with new –Evaporator, expansion valve, compressor and clutch, dryer all new o-ring at all fittings, flushed lines and flushed the original condenser at 130,000 miles. Car now has 225,000 and 6 years on the parts – still nice and cold and the system has never been opened since.
This was a very helpful site about A/C - ck the forum there. http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc?
Tool and Parts list - Note: this was March 2005 Tools re-useable
A/C Repair Manual
Haynes
My first set of gauges came from Advance Auto. Interdynamics brand, and was a POS. Been 6 years ago, but there was something about the hose ends that I didn’t like. Think I needed to buy ends or something. The CPS set was just a few dollars more and came with nice 90 degree brass snap on head on the hose ends with valves in them. Sight glass in the manifold too. Pump was a better quality too. More hp and cu ft of vac. 1/3 hp total enclosed motor w/ 3 cfm.
Today’s prices posted with pictures. - opps - guess no pictures allowed.
I'm just fortunate to be in Denver right now where I only need the heater for another few months. I've done A/C overhaul work twice=compressor and evaporator, only to have them go out again. 1 was a rebuild that seized 2 years later and the other was a new '4 seizens' (4 seasons) that wouldn't get cold.
My suggestion: Order a Denso a/c and try to find a BYOP shop and try to get them to offer a warranty....or have them order it. (I bought a compressor to a shop once and when it didn't work, they didn't want to refund me labor). Even if they don't, you'd probably still be better in the long run buying a quality Denso and risk it being defective (which most likely it won't)...in comparison to the cheap rebuild SHIT that most mechanics try and throw into older cars. They'd throw in some cheap SHIT in mine, thinking its a point A to B car....and the A/C decided to give 2 years later when I was 1,000 miles from home in the middle of summer.
I ordered from the above website a denso drier. Unfortunately I haven't gotten around to ordering the compressor, but the drier I got was definitively the real thing. NAPA also sells them, but its generally a special order and takes a week + 15$ shipping to get it to you.
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Last edited by 96ToyoCam164K; 01-23-2011 at 01:21 AM.
Another suggestion: If your compressor failed, may want to look into getting a A/C inline filter to prevent particles from damaging your new compressor.
I bought one before, but the mechanics kept convincing me its an orifice tube. It is NOT an orifice tube.
It seems kind of difficult to retrofit on...but its just a suggestion if you know someone who's savvy enough.
Make sure if you do DIY, to evacuate the system properly before removing any lines with the vacuum pump! The AC System holds a lot of pressure and can blow oil and high pressure Freon which can harm you. It is also illegal to Evacuate Freon into the atmosphere.
Unfortunently, refrigerant and freon gets released into the atmosphere every day by mechanic shops across the world
My first set of gauges came from Advance Auto. Interdynamics brand, and was a POS. Been 6 years ago, but there was something about the hose ends that I didn’t like. Think I needed to buy ends or something. The CPS set was just a few dollars more and came with nice 90 degree brass snap on head on the hose ends with valves in them. Sight glass in the manifold too. Pump was a better quality too. More hp and cu ft of vac. 1/3 hp total enclosed motor w/ 3 cfm.
Today’s prices posted with pictures. - opps - guess no pictures allowed.
dude, advance auto manifold gauges really aren't that crappy. Has a sight glass on it too. it also has 90 degree brass snap fittings. The valves for the High and low side are on the manifold themselves. 3 gauges, all with sight glasses. And its decently priced.
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Originally Posted by 96ToyoCam164K
Unfortunently, refrigerant and freon gets released into the atmosphere every day by mechanic shops across the world
The EPA is authorized to assess fines of up to $25,000 per day per violation of the Clean Air Act. If someone sees you and turns you in, it could be big bucks. The EPA can also award up to $10,000 to the person who notificed them of the violation if the person releasing the refrigerant is convicted.
1992 Toyota Camry. A/C doesn't work. Compressor and lines are leaking R12. My mechanic told me to fix and convert to the new freon would be $900. I trust my mechanic, but that seems a bit excessive. I have heard that mechanics, when they don't really want the work, will quote an outrageous price so as to keep the work out of their shop but still keep you as a client. Input?
Converting to R134 is a worthwhile expenditure if you plan to keep the car a while - the R12 variants are likely to be more and more difficult to find as the old cars go the the scrapyards. And 'just the broken parts' on a car coming up on 20 years old will keep you coming back on a regular basis - stuff does wear out and corrode. And 20 years is the lifespan of A/C parts.
To do the job 'right, converting to R134 should involve replacing the 'weak points' like condenser, evaporator, and hoses in an older vehicle, as R134 runs at higher pressures, and these pressures can make the older parts fail. Also, since R134 isn't as good at heat transfer, the components need to be 'up-sized' to maintain the original capacity; several manufacturers got into capacity issues by simply switching refrigerant without up-sizing the heat exchangers (a certain Brand H comes to mind). Since that series had several years of production with R134, it might be the best approach to switch to those newer parts to bring your car 'up to speed'.
So, if the price includes replacing condenser, evaporator, hoses, compressor, etc, it's not all that bad, as it includes the install labor. If you're super-handy, you could swap in with used parts, but that's a crap-shoot with cars of that age - corrosion never sleeps, and it's quite likely to be present in used evaporators and condensers.
dude, advance auto manifold gauges really aren't that crappy. Has a sight glass on it too. it also has 90 degree brass snap fittings. The valves for the High and low side are on the manifold themselves. 3 gauges, all with sight glasses. And its decently priced.
The EPA is authorized to assess fines of up to $25,000 per day per violation of the Clean Air Act. If someone sees you and turns you in, it could be big bucks. The EPA can also award up to $10,000 to the person who notificed them of the violation if the person releasing the refrigerant is convicted.
Mr. Perkins - My purchase was 6 years ago. Maybe be they have improved the quality after getting returns from quality demanding nuts like me. I left a post on your Gen 3 site under Tim. Very fine site and info - keep up he good work - young men like you will become the master mechanics of tomorrow. We need mechanics, not parts changers and guessers!
Mr. Perkins - My purchase was 6 years ago. Maybe be they have improved the quality after getting returns from quality demanding nuts like me. I left a post on your Gen 3 site under Tim. Very fine site and info - keep up he good work - young men like you will become the master mechanics of tomorrow. We need mechanics, not parts changers and guessers!
Tim, I appreciate that . Yeah they probably did change their carrier or something in the last 6 years I am guessing. I bought the manifold I was talking about from Advance just because it was the better value.
I'm glad that you find my information useful, and I agree. It annoys me a lot when people start throwing parts onto a vehicle instead of troubleshooting / narrowing down / replacing a part.
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95 Camry
AUTO to MANUAL Swap Guide (3rd Gen) - 
And 20 years is the lifespan of A/C parts.
. Yeah they probably did change their carrier or something in the last 6 years I am guessing. I bought the manifold I was talking about from Advance just because it was the better value.
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