2000 Camry overheats at idle

[mcp]

Hello, I have a 2000 Camry LE 4 cyl. Recently my camry started to overheat in traffic jams. Long idling temp gage rises and air from the heater cools. If in neutral and give it gas the gage will drop to normal. Tonight I stopped in a parking lot with the gage slightly above normal and opened the hood. Both fans were running and as I reved the engine the radiator hose collapsed. I never seen that happen before. Any help will be appreciated.

[71Corolla]

How is your coolant level? How many miles? Maintenance history?

[JohnGD]

With the engine cold, check the coolant level in the radiator. Check the radiator cap, especially the vacuum return valve. It may be plugged up.

What type of coolant are you using? What's the change history? Do you use distilled water?

Originally Posted by mcp

Hello, I have a 2000 Camry LE 4 cyl. Recently my camry started to overheat in traffic jams. Long idling temp gage rises and air from the heater cools. If in neutral and give it gas the gage will drop to normal. Tonight I stopped in a parking lot with the gage slightly above normal and opened the hood. Both fans were running and as I reved the engine the radiator hose collapsed. I never seen that happen before. Any help will be appreciated.

[mcp]

Will check coolant level tomorrow. Engine is still warm and it is dark and snowing here. Sorry I should of checked earlier. This is my wife's car and I don't drive it that often.

It has over 200,000 but I replaced the engine about a year ago. I will have to search to find out what mileage it was changed.

About 4 months ago the water pump gave out on a state highway. Had to have the car towed. Garage changed t belt, water pump and thermostat.

Hope this helps

[mcp]

Will check coolant level tomorrow. Engine is still warm.

How do I check the vacuum return valve?

Use Toyota coolant with tap water. It was changed about 4 months ago.

[JohnGD]

If the thermostat is an aftermarket one without the jiggle valve, then you should swap it out with the OEM stat. Or at least get an OEM-style from Stant.

Another possible cause is a restricted radiator. But let's wait until you checked the coolant level tomorrow.

BTW, the upper or lower hose collapsed?

I'd recommend Toyota Red with distilled water. This cuts down on the minerals that can plug things.

[mcp]

I didn't change the t stat. A garage mech did, so I'm not sure what he put in there.

Radiator is aftermarket, I changed it when I replaced the engine.

Pretty sure both hoses collapsed. I know the top definitely did.

[JohnGD]

This is the typical aftermarket $5 thermostat that doesn't have a jiggle valve. It can trap air in the system. However, most places use cheap stats like this.
http://info.rockauto.com/Stant/Detail.html?13758.jpg

This is what you want, at $11.50+shipping. Notice a partially visible jiggle valve on the left of the brass shaft. It also has heavier duty heat motor and springs. The jiggle valve is installed near the top orientation. Also, the heat motor faces toward the block.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1145694

Look at the top picture of the cap. See the hanging valve by the number "25"? That's the vacuum return valve. A better cap uses a metal spring loaded valve. The valve should move freely and the hole it blocks should have no obstructions. However, it's a good ideal to periodically replace the cap.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1861386

If your rad is so new then we can just about rule out obstructions inside.

[mcp]

I see the difference in the t stat.

I actually have a new Toyota radiator cap. I will put that on tomorrow after I check the fluid level.

[mcp]

Thank you 71Corolla and JohnGD for the quick responses.

[JohnGD]

When the coolant level is fine and with the new rad cap you are still seeing the same problem, then I'd check the thermostat next.

If a garage did it then it's almost guaranteed that it's the cheap stat pictured.

Originally Posted by mcp

I see the difference in the t stat.

I actually have a new Toyota radiator cap. I will put that on tomorrow after I check the fluid level.

[mcp]

Coolant level was low. Filled and changed radiator cap. The old cap looked in good shape. Right now the temp gage is steady, didn't run into any traffic jams but stopped at a lot of stop lights and let idle in drive. The top hose does not collapse when engine is revved anymore.

[JohnGD]

An aftermarket thermostat can leave an air pocket that's hard to purge. That the reason only OEM thermostats with jiggle valves should be used.

Also, hot steam can cause the upper radiator plastic tank to become brittle sooner and develop a hairline crack. That's another reason I prefer spring loaded vacuum return valves (but can be hard to find).

Periodically check underhood fluid levels.

[mcp]

Thanks JohnGD. I didn't check the t stat yet. Now I got to find where the leak is. I didn't notice any leaks from the top. I need to get under the car and look.