3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I have a 4cyl 96 Camry that i inherited from my daughters mom that passed away a few months ago.
Problem is, when she initially parked the car she feared that the clutch was gone because there was no pickup in any gear including 1st. just by her description i agreed. So i just started to replace the clutch when i noticed that the fluid in the slave cylinder is "black" and very low. Im wondering if bad fluid will cause a car to appear to have a bad clutch. i also noticed that there is no "burning clutch" smell when moving the car, even for like 3-4 blocks?
If i can avoid this clutch job it really be great.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions?
Low fluid can cause appearances of a bad clutch, as can air in the lines, and dirty ineffective fluid.
If fluid was low enough, you got air in the lines. I would flush it (aka bleed it with new fluid until it comes out clear) and also make sure you have the clutch pedal adjusted correctly.
Yeah your Shift fork relies on the hydraulic pressure to push the fingers on the pressure plate to shift. If theres no hydraulic pressure, theres no release.
Question : When Pushing the clutch, can you move the shifter from Neutral to any gear without it moving?
Reason I am asking is because If it goes into gear with the clutch pushed in, but doesn't move .. thats an indication that the clutch is fried. It should grind when your trying to put it into any gear, and if it does go into gear it would Immediately shoot forward or backwards depending on what gear its in. If it doesn't do anything, I'de say that :
1.) Your clutch is gone
2.) Your fly-wheel is probably badly scored and will need replaced or resurfaced (If within the limits)
3.) Your Slave cylinder will need flushed / Bled ... OR ... Your slave cylinder is junk and needs replaced as well
As long as when you push the clutch in, it allows you to go into gear and move I would say to flush your clutch cylinder with new fluid
Low fluid can cause appearances of a bad clutch, as can air in the lines, and dirty ineffective fluid.
If fluid was low enough, you got air in the lines. I would flush it (aka bleed it with new fluid until it comes out clear) and also make sure you have the clutch pedal adjusted correctly.
i would love to think that all i need is to bleed the lines, if nothing else i def need to give it a go before tearing it down?
Yeah your Shift fork relies on the hydraulic pressure to push the fingers on the pressure plate to shift. If theres no hydraulic pressure, theres no release.
Question : When Pushing the clutch, can you move the shifter from Neutral to any gear without it moving?
Reason I am asking is because If it goes into gear with the clutch pushed in, but doesn't move .. thats an indication that the clutch is fried. It should grind when your trying to put it into any gear, and if it does go into gear it would Immediately shoot forward or backwards depending on what gear its in. If it doesn't do anything, I'de say that :
1.) Your clutch is gone
2.) Your fly-wheel is probably badly scored and will need replaced or resurfaced (If within the limits)
3.) Your Slave cylinder will need flushed / Bled ... OR ... Your slave cylinder is junk and needs replaced as well
As long as when you push the clutch in, it allows you to go into gear and move I would say to flush your clutch cylinder with new fluid
yes! i can move the shifter into any gear with the clutch depressed, whats throwing me off is the absence of the smell of a burning clutch? and it doesnt lurch forward under any circumstances right now.
your clutch cylinder probably has enough fluid in it to engage the shift fork. Try to bleed it first before anything. A burning clutch smell is caused by it slipping (making a thin layer of clutch on the flywheel). Usually this happens when you feather the clutch too much. Where is your clutch engaging?
1. All the way at the floor
2. Half way up
3. towards the top
Ok, imma run out and bleed it in a few and well know where im at from there i guess?
its hard to tell where the clutch actually engages, because it doesnt lurch or show any type of grabbing when accelerating? it just gradually takes off.
Ok, imma run out and bleed it in a few and well know where im at from there i guess?
its hard to tell where the clutch actually engages, because it doesnt lurch or show any type of grabbing when accelerating? it just gradually takes off.
Well, i did bleed the hell outta the system and of course it didnt make a noticeable enough difference to avoid the replacement.
Thanks guys lets just hope this replacement goes well!
lol sorry for all the !!!! but its important if you want it to engage right.
It will cost you $30-$50.00 to get it re-surfaced and it makes a world of difference. If you dont re-surface it, your car will skip erratically around when engaging into gear (Mostly 1st).
Make sure the OEM Clutch kit comes with a new throw-out bearing too and dont forget to grease it if it already isnt
Clutch changing is simple. Once you get into it you'll be done in no-time
I wonder if the air in the line can cause a partially applied clutch. Hopefully the pedal has not been misadjusted.
If you have a slipping clutch it won't show grabbing or lurching. Do you notice slipping on acceleration and shifting? That's the easiest way to tell if the clutch is slipping. Otherwise you can do a stall test in an empty parking lot with no one nearby.
If the brake fluid is low have you noticed any leaks in the hydraulic system? Make sure the cause of the slippage is identified and fixed. This may include rebuild/replace the master and slave cylinders.
So what clutch kit do you plan to use? Change the pilot bearing and resurface/replace the $45 flywheel.
The Following User Says Thank You to JohnGD For This Useful Post:
I wouldn't. I used two of Advance's store brands, both were defective garbage. Returned and spent LESS buying a Sach's clutch kit online, which came with a NACHI bearing.
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