'98 Camry 2.2l Engine Damage - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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3rd & 4th Generation (19921996 & 19972001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 02-01-2011, 08:57 AM   #1 (permalink)
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'98 Camry 2.2l Engine Damage

Hello everyone,

I just signed up to the Forum; I have a '98 Camry 2.2L 4cyl. To get to the chase, last week the car over-heated and started making a "ticking" sound. I had it towed to a mechanic yesterday morning, they checked it out and told me that I have a bad bearing either in cyl 3 or 4. I do believe that this is the case because when I first crank up the engine, there is a screetching sound which then turns into a knocking sound.

The engine basically ran very low on oil and basically ruined it. I have no experience at all with Toyotas which leads me to my doezen questions:

- What is the best place to get a rebuilt or used engine?
- Would any engine from '96 to '02 work fine in a '98? Electrical, CPU, other differences?
- Is it possible to put the V6 instead of the 4 cyl?

I really appreciate the help and feedback if possible.

Mike
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Old 02-01-2011, 10:51 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Hello, Mike, and welcome to Toyota Nation!

I'll move your thread over to the Camry forum so the members there can help you out, but I also suggest you use that forum's search feature to locate any past threads discussing engine rebuilds, V6 versus 4-cylinder, etc. The other members will appreciate that. Thanks!
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Old 02-01-2011, 11:17 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Running low on oil usually makes the engine go boom. But luckily enough for you, you only ruined a bearing. The knocking sound more than likely IS the bearing. And they're pretty easy to replace. You just pull the oil pan, and balance shafts, and then you can see the offending parts.

Drain your oil and check for metal particles. Better so, I would pull the pan and look for larger chunks.

If you see this:

You're in trouble...
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Old 02-01-2011, 11:22 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Just stick with a 4cylinder. To rebuild it, with all of the machining, and rebuild kit, and labor your going to more than a used motor will cost. A used motor should run you $600-$700.00. to Rebuild it it will cost you about $1,200 - $1,500.00.

If your bearings are just bad and the crank isn't damaged, you can get away with getting new bearings. Worst case scenario is you'de have to pull the crankshaft and get it re-ground with oversize bearings which will run you around $350.00 for re-grind/polish/bearing kit.

If your crank is OK and you just need bearings, it should cost about $100.00 for a bearing kit. For both of these situations you might as well get a new Oil pan gasket.

All of these prices are not including labor also..

To swap the 4cylinder to a 6 cylinder you will need a V6 motor first of all, which they run $800-$1000.00 for it. You will need a V6 transmission which will be $500-$600.00, you will need an ECU, Complete wiring harness (Computers, under-dash harness, motor harness), Motor Mounts, Hydraulic Fans, Axles, (might as well swap the Spindle assemblies out too and get V6 rotors, calipers, etc..) The I4 > V6 is possible, but very expensive.

I would honestly try to see if you can just swap the bearings out first... should be 2-3 HR labor + $100-$125.00 in parts. If you need machining it will be a bit more labor because the transmission will need to be removed.

hope that helps
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Old 02-01-2011, 06:52 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks to all of you for your feedback and help; this helps out tremendously:thumbsu p:. From your comments, I'm going to drop the V6 idea...it'll just be creating more trouble than needed.

I believe I can do the work myself with some help from a mechanic friend; I had the car towed to the house this afternoon.

When I drop the pan, and remove the bearings, How do I check to make sure the crank is OK? Any reason to suspect that the pistons are bad?
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Old 02-01-2011, 07:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You'll be able to tell if the crank is whack. You'll see scoring and scratches on it. It should look relatively smooth and clean. I would even go the extra mile to rotate the crank with the bottom caps off to check all 360 degrees of the crank...

Pistons should be fine, usually the way they fail is just by exploding essentially.
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Old 02-01-2011, 07:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The biggest thing you have to worry about is when the motor gets very hot from lack of coolant or lack of oil. Everything gets really hot and expands... your pistons Swell. The pistons will expand and the piston will start to melt to the inside of the cylinder walls. If you can get to the cylinders (crankshaft may be in the way) You can put the piston towards the top of the cylinder and rub your fingernail gently side to side and up and down. If your piston did indeed start to melt, your nail will catch the material and you can feel it. There really wont be anything you can do to reverse this besides pull the entire motor and have the cylinders honed.

Worst case scenario is that you will have rebuild the entire motor (Or buy a new/used)

Heres an example of a completely spun bearing:

( This is out of my 95 camry that I bought with a seized motor )

This picture is the connecting rod, with both bearings melted together:


Heres the Journal the connecting rod above was attached to (Notice the Large scratches in the crank)




Heres a good condition Crankshaft that I replaced the main and rod bearings on :

(The brown color on the journal is oil)
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Old 02-01-2011, 07:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
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97-01 TOYOTA 5SFE CAMRY SOLARA 2.2L USED LONG BLOCK ENGINE

WARRANTY:
6 MONTHS / UNLIMITED MILES

http://www.japanengine.com/products/...&search=&page=
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MY 1998 Toyota Camry LE
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=368035
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Old 02-01-2011, 07:13 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Or

http://www.shopjdmstar.com/product/5s-camry-97-01/
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MY 1998 Toyota Camry LE
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=368035
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Old 02-01-2011, 07:21 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98camryredchatt View Post
Thanks to all of you for your feedback and help; this helps out tremendously:thumbsu p:. From your comments, I'm going to drop the V6 idea...it'll just be creating more trouble than needed.

I believe I can do the work myself with some help from a mechanic friend; I had the car towed to the house this afternoon.

When I drop the pan, and remove the bearings, How do I check to make sure the crank is OK? Any reason to suspect that the pistons are bad?
If your going to do that I would pull the motor and go through it completely. Call Dan (if you can get him) at American Toyota and tell him you seen them on IH8MUD.COM (LandCruiser site) and you'll get good advice and price.
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Old 02-02-2011, 07:02 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Mister_Perkins, thanks for the pictures; that's crazy. I hope mine doesn't look like that!!!

ShawnTRD, thanks for the resource. I'll be calling him for advice and pricing.

From all this, I have to have a "lesson learned"...I'm still skeptical on what caused to car to run low on oil because it never smoked (as far as I could see) or leaked. All I know is the car was great for all these years until I switched to Synthetic oil during my last oil change.
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Old 02-02-2011, 08:58 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Don't go blaming the synthetic. I'll bet more than anything that you had leak from the oil pump which went unnoticed due to it being on the back half of the motor under the timing cover, but that being said these motors really don't need synthetic, they do just fine with dead dinos. My advice would be to swap in a used motor and rebuild the current one once it's out of the car, that way if anything happens you have a spare ready to go, or maybe you could pick up another Camry with a bad motor for cheap and swap it in. Either way it would be the perfect way to learn about the motor in your car so you will be able to save cash by doing your own work in the future.
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Old 02-02-2011, 09:45 AM   #13 (permalink)
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+1

Switching from conventional to Synthetic has no adverse effects in a motor. We had a huge discussion on this topic already. There is no problems with switching back and fourth what-so-ever.

Not having enough oil does.

What probably happened was you had a pre-existing leak already, but it was not noticeable because you were using conventional oil and the detergent breaks down and builds up kind of "Fixing the leak". You probably had a slight leak, but didn't notice it like Shawn said. When you switched to a synthetic, since its higher quality .. it doesn't break down like Conventional oil and washed the Broken down detergent from your conventional oil. Now your Built up leak was a bigger leak. You didn't notice your oil level went down because you didn't have any prior Oil problems that you knew of and probably didn't check the oil.

^^ Thats my theory

Not a huge deal, but don't blame synthetic oil
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Old 02-02-2011, 10:34 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I agree with both of you guys' theories...at the end of the day, the blame is on my dumbass for not checking the oil level; LESSON LEARNED!. There was a leak coming around the oil pump about 1 yr ago and replacing the gasket fixed the leak at the time.
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Old 02-02-2011, 12:04 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Hey it happens to everyone. Well, I guess not everyone blows an engine...but I sure did.

So make sure to check your oil at least weekly, folks! I check weekly/every time I get gas/before any highway trips. Only lost one engine so far...
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