skipping after replacing head gasket

[proftomda]

I have a 94 2.2 camry, 138,000 miles and blew head gasket last week. Sent head off to be machined and finished re-installation today. Engine hesitates and sputters or misses when gas pedal applied as it initially accelerates off idle RPM. It smoothes out over 1500 RPM or so. Havent driven it yet.

Here's how it transpired... I started engine and let it idle for 10 minutes and it sounded nice and smooth, then all of a sudden it began to stumble. I jumped into the car and revved it up and noticed the skip that I mentioned above. Temp gage in normal range, no check engine light so far.

Any ideas before I tear the whole thing apart again...

[fenixus]

any trouble codes yet? they may require 2 trip logic to pop up.

sound like a misfire at idle, check those:
a) major vacuum leak
b) bad compression
c) IAC stuck
d) ECT sensor reporting wrong temp
e) blockage in either air or fuel delivery

[Mister_Perkins]

hmm .. I would start by pulling and inspecting the spark plugs for a fouled plug.

Sounds like one of them may have fouled out. What does the exhaust smoke look like out the taillpipe? White? ... Black?

Edit:

I wouldn't remove the head now . If everything is torqued down, the head was resurfaced.. LEAVE IT. If you pull it apart, your going to have to get a new head gasket.

Did you put a Service Bolt in the camshaft before removing them?

[proftomda]

Thanks Fenixus and Mr. Perkins for the reply.

This morning, I pulled the spark plugs and performed a compression check. Spark plugs appeared normal and compression all cylinders 165 - 175 psi = normal.

Replaced plugs, installed front wheels and took for a drive down the street. Same problem as yesterday... I started car, engine was nice and smooth thru entire rpm band so I put it in gear and drove away. Car behaved absolutely normal until it warmed to mid way on temp gage, about 1 mile down the road. At that point, it magically began running rough and initial gas pedal application particularly rough until 1500 rpm or so and then smooths out. Once again, no check engine light yet but this is a 1994 so not sure if the CEL is that informative.

So, from todays attempt I think I can rule out head gasket and maybe even timing belt being off because like yesterday, it ran great for a while. It obviously seems temp related but not sure where to look next.

[Mister_Perkins]

I would check a couple things..

Check the Distributor Air Gap, resistance of the coil, and the resistance of the spark plug wires. What could be happening is as your car is warming up, the air gap on the distributor is getting larger, causing a random misfire. Could also be a good idea to check the condition of the distributor rotor as well.

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by proftomda

Car behaved absolutely normal until it warmed to mid way on temp gage, about 1 mile down the road. At that point, it magically began running rough and initial gas pedal application particularly rough until 1500 rpm or so and then smooths out.

As was suggested by fenixus test ECT sensor for proper resistance.

[proftomda]

Question, Is the ECT sensor the one located on the water outlet neck or the one located at bottom or radiator?

[Stillrunning]

water outlet

[proftomda]

Replaced ECT sensor, no help at all.

[Mister_Perkins]

Check the air gap with a feeler gauge and the resistance of the coil and resistance of the spark plug wires.

DIY: 5sfe Distributor Diagnosis

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by proftomda

Replaced ECT sensor, no help at all.

Why didn't you test it?

[proftomda]

I accidently broke the original ECT sensor when removing is the reason I replaced it. I'll check the distributor coil air gap and the spark plug wire resitance tomorrow as you advise.

The distributor was replaced with a factory neent done is check w one 4000 miles ago so I have my doubts about that being the problem. The wires are older though. No problems with the distributor or wires prior to the head gasket failing between cylinders 1 & 2.

Thinking ahead, if the timing belt is possibly off,, that would cause issues when the engine is stone cold as well as warm, right? One thing I havent done is check timing via timing light. If timing was not correct at 10 degrees BTDC, that would cause a problem when the engine was stone cold as well as warm, correct?

I used a paper clip and jumped the terminals in the diagnostic box and got DTC error code 14 and 22. Error code 22 refers to the ECT circuit but not sure what 14 refers to. I have a spare ignitor or coil box so I am going out now to swap them. Im running out of ideas so please help.

[Mister_Perkins]

10 Degrees BTDC is referring to using an inductive timing light and timing the distributor, not the belt itself.

as far as code 14, Check the wiring and connectors for the coil/ignitor and from ignitor to distributor.

If your timing was off you would definitely notice it all the time. It would feel really sluggish

[fenixus]

sounds like progress. reset ECU e.g. by disconnecting negative battery terminal for 2 minutes, put back, start the car, drive until warm and re-check codes.

14 is the fault in ignition signal to ECU. maybe bad igniter module, maybe loose plug or cracked insulation on wires.

[proftomda]

I accidently broke the original ECT sensor when removing is the reason I replaced it. I'll check the distributor coil air gap and the spark plug wire resitance tomorrow as you advise.

The distributor was replaced with a factory neent done is check w one 4000 miles ago so I have my doubts about that being the problem. The wires are older though. No problems with the distributor or wires prior to the head gasket failing between cylinders 1 & 2.

Thinking ahead, if the timing belt is possibly off,, that would cause issues when the engine is stone cold as well as warm, right? One thing I havent done is check timing via timing light. If timing was not correct at 10 degrees BTDC, that would cause a problem when the engine was stone cold as well as warm, correct?

I used a paper clip and jumped the terminals in the diagnostic box and got DTC error code 14 and 22. Error code 22 refers to the ECT circuit but not sure what 14 refers to. I have a spare ignitor or coil box so I am going out now to swap them. Im running out of ideas so please help.