3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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What is the normal interval for replacing Front Rotors?
I seem to need new rotors every 50K miles or so and wanted to find out if that was about the average for these cars.
I have never turned them as mine seem to get warped and I've heard that warped rotors aren't really fixed by turning them.
As for my driving style, I am no speed demon.
I usually am gentle in my starts and stops but there is a large hill that I drive down everyday and I think that may have something to do with them getting warped.
+1
I would replace with Toyota Rotors or Brembo Blanks. As for me, I still have original rotors. I think my dad had them turned with new pads at around 67k.
I can't remember where but I bought them someplace online.
What are Brembo blanks and where can I get them?
How long should they last?
They are just regular rotors, that's just their "nickname".
Tire Rack has them: http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...8&autoModClar=
They should last as long as OEMs. I'm not completely sure because I've never had experience with them.
What brake pads are you using? Akebono ProAct ceramic?
You should also check the caliper anchor pins to see if they are sticking. When you push back the caliper pistons with a c-clamp do they move in very easily? Like with 2-finger easy pressure?
Quote:
Originally Posted by OceanView
I seem to need new rotors every 50K miles or so and wanted to find out if that was about the average for these cars.
I have never turned them as mine seem to get warped and I've heard that warped rotors aren't really fixed by turning them.
As for my driving style, I am no speed demon.
I usually am gentle in my starts and stops but there is a large hill that I drive down everyday and I think that may have something to do with them getting warped.
How many miles are you averaging between rotors?
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What brake pads are you using? Akebono ProAct ceramic?
You should also check the caliper anchor pins to see if they are sticking. When you push back the caliper pistons with a c-clamp do they move in very easily? Like with 2-finger easy pressure?
My Pads are Duralast from Autozone.
I don't remember the caliper anchor pins sticking but I will check next time I open her up.
Brembo is expensive stuff. One brembo rotor is nearly 3 times more expensive than the nearest "decent" rotors (raybestos $17/rotor)+shipping.
FWIW get a rotor ~20 bucks a piece. I am using Raybestos premium+ Duralast pads and nothing to complain here .
Unless you track your car or drive aggressively above combination should keep the brake job budget under $150.
That includes
pair of rotors ~40
brake pads fronts and rears ~60
brake fluid ~10
Rubber-safe grease for caliper sliding pins ~10
Labor cost would vary highly. Especially where I live a lot of them would rip you off with $80/hour labor rates.
__________________ 1995 Camry DX L4 178,6XX miles and counting each mile.... acquired 05/25/2007 at 129K miles
2004 Mazda6 I4 5-Speed Manual 115,500 miles acquired 01/21/2011 at 109,XXX miles
Last edited by peshwa; 02-07-2011 at 11:17 PM.
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Brembo is expensive stuff. One brembo rotor is nearly 3 times more expensive than the nearest "decent" rotors (raybestos $17/rotor)+shipping.
FWIW get a rotor ~20 bucks a piece. I am using Raybestos premium+ Duralast pads and nothing to complain here .
Unless you track your car or drive aggressively above combination should keep the brake job budget under $150.
That includes
pair of rotors ~40
brake pads fronts and rears ~60
brake fluid ~10
Rubber-safe grease for caliper sliding pins ~10
Labor cost would vary highly. Especially where I live a lot of them would rip you off with $80/hour labor rates.
OK, I found Brembo Rotors for $41.98 each and PBR rotors for $26.64 each.
How good are PBR?
Front brake job should not cost too much as the Duralast pads are lifetime replacements so I can just bring mine in and get a new set for free.
I recently replaced the brake fluid so worst case scenario is about $84 plus shipping.
Use Brembo. It's the gold standard. Don't know much about the PBR Axxis company. It's Australian.
When you check the anchor pins, you should be able to move them with two fingers' light pressure. If it even sticks on the first try then they need to be cleaned and relubed.
Don't use petroleum cleaner on rubber parts. Use alcohol to wipe them clean and allow to dry. Spray metal parts with brake cleaner. Take the rubber bushing off one of the pins before spraying and let completely dry before putting it back on. Personally, I'd even leave it off, even if I don't like to modify designs like that.
For these applications I think the newer Permatex ceramic extreme disc lube would be the better grease.
If it's not the caliper hardware then it may be the brake pads themselves. I don't think the main problem is with the rotors. I think the Centric C-tek or Raybestos PG should work. That's why I wonder if Akebonos pads will work better. If heat is an issue, then maybe Hawk pads may be an option.
Fenixus - how are the Hawks so far compared to Akebono SP?
Quote:
Originally Posted by OceanView
OK, I found Brembo Rotors for $41.98 each and PBR rotors for $26.64 each.
How good are PBR?
Front brake job should not cost too much as the Duralast pads are lifetime replacements so I can just bring mine in and get a new set for free.
I recently replaced the brake fluid so worst case scenario is about $84 plus shipping.
Last edited by JohnGD; 02-08-2011 at 12:24 AM.
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Fenixus - how are the Hawks so far compared to Akebono SP?
well, in my opinion Akebono Street Performance (when comparing to Hawk HPS) have firmer grip on rotor and can stop the car on slightly shorter distance, but then I have Akebonos SP on V6 setup (with rear discs with Akebono ProACT) while Hawks HPS are mounted in front of i4 (rear drums).
Akebonos are also super quiet, really can't hear them ever, even when the caliper was dragging haha! Hawks can produce a brief squeak from time to time especially when releasing brakes and moving off traffic lights.
Also there is a major difference in dusting, Akebono SP seem almost dust free to me or its color is hard to notice while Hawk HPS produce that ugly brown dust (almost rust color).
Not sure if Akebono SP is worth the extra money over regular Akebono ProACT, but unless the car is intended for track racing I would not take the Hawks HPS again because of their minor flaws.
Also both Akebono SP and Hawks HPS wear down minimally, they last and last, will have them for a few good years probably. All depends on driving habits, but me personally like to (or often need to) use brakes a lot, especially that I have lots of small hills around here, almost no flat roads in my area.
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
Last edited by fenixus; 02-08-2011 at 09:12 AM.
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