[gen3] Grinding noise from A/T (car won't go).

[pmx007PL]

I have big problem with my 1994 5S-FE automatic.

Today it started to click/grind a bit when I was turning wheels (parking maneuvers) from left to right (only at max. angle) and drive slow. When car was not moving, it was (and still is) OK.
So I ignored it (I thought that it's just probably worn CV joints - and I have some time, to buy new and replace them in next few weeks).
I went to trip (about 100 miles long), and it started to grind more and more (even without turning), and finally car was unable to move (it's only grinding noise when you put it on L, 2, D or R position).

What do you think (what's your experience), it's only CV joints (nothing to worry about), or differential (maybe with whole A/T) blown away (so Camry = R.I.P.)?

Car is now far from home (I left her in some mechanic workshop), so I can't check it myself, look under car (I can only tell, that ATF in A/T and diff is new - about 2 k miles, and yesterday there was absolutely no noises, etc).

[Mister_Perkins]

Sounds like your Axles, but it could be something else.

Hop under the car and move the axles around with your hand. If its bad, it will have a lot of Up and Down play (Side to side is normal). Look for ripped boots, etc.. also indicating that the axle is bad

Worst case situation is your Differential Bearings are shot and will need replaced.

[pmx007PL]

Village mechanics where I left car, refused repair, because they don't know what is exactly wrong ("something's wrong with transmission"). Most car mechanics in Europe are not familiar with automatic transmissions.

Now I'm looking for another workshop (near home) and used A/T to replace...

[fenixus]

Originally Posted by pmx007PL

Village mechanics where I left car, refused repair, because they don't know what is exactly wrong ("something's wrong with transmission"). Most car mechanics in Europe are not familiar with automatic transmissions.

Now I'm looking for another workshop (near home) and used A/T to replace...

yeah, such mechanics never have a clue what they are working on. they are only good for fixing VW and Fiat cars

sounds like transmission is toast.

would be helpful if you have a friendly scavenger bringing junk yard parts to Poland on request.

I would also try searching for a used A140E transmission in some junk yards outside of Poland (not sure if that automatic trans model was in sales in Poland at all), maybe Germany, Holland, Italy or Belgium?

also check ebay in those countries. you never know what you may find over there

as I mentioned in other thread, a manual swap might be another option (more labor intensive of course).

anyways, good luck!

[pmx007PL]

It's the worst option.
I removed axles and both are OK (CV joints and tripods).
Cavitys/sockets (I don't know correct name in english for place where you put tripods into differential) have big play in all directions (up/down, left/right, in/out).

You can put car into D (or R) gear and stop rotation of this elements with one small finger (sometimes when you push it into diff., it engage and make few revolutions). This elements itself are also OK.

Inside differential at this moment I can't see anything (grinded gears/bearings). There was no oil leak when I removed this parts (seals worn or proper level is somewhere under?).


Is there possibility, to dismantle differential without removing tranny from car?

[Mister_Perkins]

Sounds like your Differential Bearings are wore out. You can remove the differential Casing to access the differential, but I am not sure if you can completely remove it. You need to Remove the carrier cover (Back side where the fill plug is) ... There are 11 or 12 bolts holding it in place. After removing that, you remove the Bearing Retainer bolts and the Differential will be fully exposed. There is a C Clip in there as well.

Like I said, i'm not positive if you can remove the differential to pull the bearings off and put new ones on.

In the first picture you posted with the axle inserted into the Differential, if you look to the Right of the axle, where the fins are .. That is the Carrier Cover. The Bearing Retainer is the bolts that are around the outside of where the input shaft goes into the differential, also in the first picture

[pmx007PL]

Today I removed bearing retainer and it's also OK (but inside of sealing lips, there was some metal mud).

Cone rolling bearing is fine too...

Excessive play is deep inside differential mechanism (probably planetary gears/satellites).

If something new occurs I will post it here (but it's not easy to repair A/T in winter with snow ).

[Mister_Perkins]

In the middle of the differential, It will always have play until the axles are inserted. The thing you want to check is where the rollers are on the bearing (Pictured in last picture) Check the Rollers for deep scratches. If they are scratched, they are whooped out. They should be very smooth (no scratches).

But yeah, if you put your finger inside where the spline is and push up or down it will move. Thats normal. double check the rollers, and check the outer race thats inside the bearing retainer for scratches too.

Edit:

You can see the outer race pictured in the first one you posted, with the O-Ring next to it.

[pmx007PL]

Diff-cover dropped (there was 13 bolts). Almost no oil inside (probably cause of failure - riding with dry differential). Some metal pieces inside found.
BTW, what's this bolt on top of the cover (on pic it's on bottom), filler or vent?

Differential gear (on driver's side axle) has crushed teeth (and abnormal play in all directions)...

Another view...

Next question: how to remove passenger side axle (half that is supported by bearing in rear engine mount)? Best way will be just unscrew engine mount? Any ideas, "ghetto tool" recommendations?

[71Corolla]

Originally Posted by pmx007PL

Next question: how to remove passenger side axle (half that is supported by bearing in rear engine mount)? Best way will be just unscrew engine mount? Any ideas, "ghetto tool" recommendations?

I just remove the whole mount, but you will need to raise the engine a few inches to do it. Some people like to get out the torch and the slide hammer and a bunch of other brute force tools, but having tried that I just pull the mount and put the thing on the bench where I can work on it properly.

[pmx007PL]

It wasn't so easy (need to unscrew rear, front and dog bone engine mount to lift it up enough), but passenger axle is finally removed. On this pic parts from diff are also present (speed sensor, passenger side diff gear bearing supports).


Unfortunately differential can not be removed now. Engine subframe and power steering rack resists...

[pmx007PL]

Finally, after jacking up engine, transmission, unscrewing steering rack (and also inside car, steering column) and sway bar + some brutal savage force, I was able to push diff out.


Closer look at damaged teeth.


One spacer/washer under one of gears is missing (completely grinded) and this cause abnormal play mentioned in previous posts.


So take care of your differentials (condition and level of oil), because it will end up like this...

[pmx007PL]

Differential disassembled (one of the satellites broke during dismantling).


And the good news is: I bought used A/T (not complete, but containing differential), replaced diff and it's working (first test drive today was OK).



BTW: worst thing in this entire repair was to remove and put back passenger side axle (half with bearing in rear engine mount).

[fenixus]

sounds good!

yes, the pass side axle is the nightmare for most ... glad you have it back on road again!

[ghettosled]

good job tackling this job. thanks for all of the photos - it was certainly interesting see the guts of the differential.