Mr. Haynes was no help! I get more help from TN for free. Your advice for $20 on replacing the rear engine mount on my son's 2000 V6 Camry Solara was: similar to 4 cyl (NOT) and engine mounting bracket is a casting that cradles the insulator.
Keywords: Rear Engine Motor Mount, Severe Engine Vibration in gear, Press rear engine motor mount Insitu (in place)
The rear engine mount is pressed into the same bracket that holds the carrier bearing for the passenger side CV drive shaft. The advice I found online was to remove the drive shaft and the bracket on the back of the engine. Using a PRESS, press out old mount and press new one into bracket.
Usually the carrier bearing is sized in place from heat and rust. Removing the bracket in the back of the motor can be a PITA. If you strip the bolts going into the engine...your nightmare begins. I was able to remove and press the new motor mount in place without having to remove the drive shaft or rear bracket. I found this easier than tearing everything out.
Qty 2: 6" C clamps (you will probably break one or both)
Qty 2: 1/4" steel plates ~ 4" x 6"
Torch with MAP Gas (Acetylene is even better)
Piece of wood to protect oil pan
1 or 2 ft bar (longer is better) I used a 3/4 drive breaker bar.
Lots of metric sockets and wrenches (1/2 drive minimum).
I broke both made in China C clamps : (but got it pressed in)
Bar for tapping:
You can get by without the air tools but it will take much much longer.
Steel plates need to be large enoungh to cover the ~ 4" diameter motor mount. The bar is to pound on the plate to drive in the mount into the casting.
Remove Pass side strut. Remove CV drive shaft from steering knuckle only!. It is better to loosen CV nut while car is still on the ground. I had the inner and outer tie rods out because I was also replacing them along with the struts. Place board on oil pan and support motor with floor jack. Remove the 4 nuts from the mount's bracket and the center bolt from the bracket. Remove motor mount bracket.
The new Rear Motor Mount looks like this:
The center fell out when I removed the center bolt. No wonder the car was vibrating like hell while in drive. The was no mount left at 200K miles. Use air chisle to cut out old motor mount. Here is what is left.
Use die grinder to clean up the opening inside in the engine bracket you just beat the hell out of.
My new motor mount was painted. I filed the paint off and tapered one side to help it fit into the casted engine bracket. Take as much metal off as you can but not too much or the motor mount will not fit snuggly in the engine bracket. If not enough metal is removed and it can get stuck while pressing in. If this happens use a torch and heat up the motor bracket. Use a thin film of axle grease on the motor mount to help it slide into the engine bracket while pressing.
Old motor mount removed:
C clamps and plates:
Tighten C clamp..tap tap...tighten c clamp.. tap tap..etc. This can take a long time..... depending on how much metal you shaved off the new mount and how many c clamps you have to break.
New motor mount pressed in place without removing CV drive shaft from transmission and engine bracket from the back of the engine. After it is pressed in place, re-install motor mount bracket to cross member and through bolt. You may need to lower/raise jack to get center bolt back in. I also put the four bolts through the cross member and loosely tighten the nuts prior to installating the center bolt.. After all 5 are in...tighten them up. Adjust jack as needed. finally remove the jack. Bracket not shown in pictures below.
I hope this procedure helps.