V6 1MZ-FE Rear Engine Motor Mount Insitu Replacement Procedure - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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#1 Old 02-12-2011, 10:13 PM
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V6 1MZ-FE Rear Engine Motor Mount Insitu Replacement Procedure

Mr. Haynes was no help! I get more help from TN for free. Your advice for $20 on replacing the rear engine mount on my son's 2000 V6 Camry Solara was: similar to 4 cyl (NOT) and engine mounting bracket is a casting that cradles the insulator.

Keywords: Rear Engine Motor Mount, Severe Engine Vibration in gear, Press rear engine motor mount Insitu (in place)

The rear engine mount is pressed into the same bracket that holds the carrier bearing for the passenger side CV drive shaft. The advice I found online was to remove the drive shaft and the bracket on the back of the engine. Using a PRESS, press out old mount and press new one into bracket.

Usually the carrier bearing is sized in place from heat and rust. Removing the bracket in the back of the motor can be a PITA. If you strip the bolts going into the engine...your nightmare begins. I was able to remove and press the new motor mount in place without having to remove the drive shaft or rear bracket. I found this easier than tearing everything out.

Tools Needed:

Air Chisel
Die Grinder
Qty 2: 6" C clamps (you will probably break one or both)
Qty 2: 1/4" steel plates ~ 4" x 6"
Torch with MAP Gas (Acetylene is even better)
floor jack
Piece of wood to protect oil pan
Hammer
1 or 2 ft bar (longer is better) I used a 3/4 drive breaker bar.
Lots of metric sockets and wrenches (1/2 drive minimum).

I broke both made in China C clamps : (but got it pressed in)


Bar for tapping:



You can get by without the air tools but it will take much much longer.
Steel plates need to be large enoungh to cover the ~ 4" diameter motor mount. The bar is to pound on the plate to drive in the mount into the casting.

Remove Pass side strut. Remove CV drive shaft from steering knuckle only!. It is better to loosen CV nut while car is still on the ground. I had the inner and outer tie rods out because I was also replacing them along with the struts. Place board on oil pan and support motor with floor jack. Remove the 4 nuts from the mount's bracket and the center bolt from the bracket. Remove motor mount bracket.

The new Rear Motor Mount looks like this:


The center fell out when I removed the center bolt. No wonder the car was vibrating like hell while in drive. The was no mount left at 200K miles. Use air chisle to cut out old motor mount. Here is what is left.



Use die grinder to clean up the opening inside in the engine bracket you just beat the hell out of.

My new motor mount was painted. I filed the paint off and tapered one side to help it fit into the casted engine bracket. Take as much metal off as you can but not too much or the motor mount will not fit snuggly in the engine bracket. If not enough metal is removed and it can get stuck while pressing in. If this happens use a torch and heat up the motor bracket. Use a thin film of axle grease on the motor mount to help it slide into the engine bracket while pressing.

Old motor mount removed:

C clamps and plates:


Tighten C clamp..tap tap...tighten c clamp.. tap tap..etc. This can take a long time..... depending on how much metal you shaved off the new mount and how many c clamps you have to break.


New motor mount pressed in place without removing CV drive shaft from transmission and engine bracket from the back of the engine. After it is pressed in place, re-install motor mount bracket to cross member and through bolt. You may need to lower/raise jack to get center bolt back in. I also put the four bolts through the cross member and loosely tighten the nuts prior to installating the center bolt.. After all 5 are in...tighten them up. Adjust jack as needed. finally remove the jack. Bracket not shown in pictures below.



I hope this procedure helps.

Last edited by ETCdude1; 02-16-2011 at 06:23 PM. Reason: You need 6" clamps. I had 12" Use 6" C clamps.
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#2 Old 02-12-2011, 11:12 PM
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Fixed most of your pics. You had some WEIRD Bb coding going on. One seems to have no uploaded to your hosting site though.



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#3 Old 02-12-2011, 11:31 PM
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Thanks. I fixed the links to all the pictures. I found it easier to copy and paste link directly into the text without using the pic insert icon.
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#4 Old 02-13-2011, 12:20 AM
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Thanks ETCdude1 !!!!

This is exactly what I need to do on my car as well.

I was about to take the car into the dealer but maybe just maybe I can do this as well.
I do have a few questions.

1. Was your mount an OEM part? Why the need for filing down if it was an OEM part?

2. How many hours do you think it took?

3. Do you need any special tools to remove the strut and spring? I'm scared to mess with compressed springs as it can really do damage if handled improperly.

4. Is getting a torch necessary to do this job? How about a heat gun?

5. On a scale of 1-10, how difficult would you say this job is?

Sorry for all the questions and thanks for the DIY. It will help me immensily.



This is what mine looks like at the moment.



1MZ-FE - 341,xxx Miles

Last edited by OceanView; 02-13-2011 at 12:21 AM.
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#5 Old 02-13-2011, 12:31 AM
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wedge something sharp between the mount and mount bracket. keep hammering the sharp object all the way through, and use an air chisel and the old mount cylinder will just pop out.
my suggestion is to actually have the mount removed and pressed in. it only takes about 5 mins to be pressed in. or you can spend hours doing it yourself.

btw, goodjob OP.

Charley
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#6 Old 02-13-2011, 11:52 AM
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Rear Motor Mount Replacement

OceanView,

I cheaped out by not buying a factory service manual. I threw $20 at Mr Haynes for one worthless sentence. I believe conventional way to replace the rear motor mount is to rip out the CV drive shaft and rear engine mount casting (bracket mounted to engine). With casting in hand the pressing in and out of the motor mount is easy with a Press. My CV drive shaft was siezed in and the engine bracket looked like a real PITA to get out + engine bracket bolts were beat to hell (not by me). Here are the answers to your questions.

1. Was your mount an OEM part? Why the need for filing down if it was an OEM part?

I bought the rear motor mount at rockauto. Anchor is a good name and I don't beleive it's the China made crap. Presses are rated in tons. C clamps probably a few hundred pounds. Removing some metal on the motor mount hopely will get you in the few hundred pound range.

2. How many hours do you think it took?

It took a 2-3 hours. Wheel off to wheel back on. I started to do it the conventioal way (remove CV drive shaft and casted engine mounted bracket) 1/2 hr spent with my son and friends beating on the carrier bearing area with a slide hammer with a special "C" attachment for removing drive shafts. (Yes.. retaining clip and carrier bearing rataining bolt were removed). It can purchased at autozone (special order) for $20 or rent it there for free. MAP gas was insufficent heat. Also, I did not want to ruin the CV drive shaft (yes I could have got it out, but it would have been beat to hell)...and spend more money to get a new one (or rebuilt one).

3. Do you need any special tools to remove the strut and spring? I'm scared to mess with compressed springs as it can really do damage if handled improperly.

Strut removal was easy. 3 bolts top and 2 bolts bottom + a 10mm bolt that holds the brake line and ABS sensor wire. You don't need to take the strut apart. Just remove it. You only need to be concerned about the spring launching the strut mount and taking your head off when you are taking the strut apart to rebuild it. The center nut in the top strut mount should not be removed since this is what is under spring tension.

Working on a car can be dangerous. Your strut question is a concern, since strut removal was rountine when I did the motor mount replacement. I recommend that this procedure on motor mount replacement be done only by experienced mechanics. I recommend everyone take their car to a local local garage to have the work done. This procedure shows how I replaced the motor mount insitu. This procedure may or may not help an experienced mechanic. All mechanics should be knowageable of and observe all safety procedures. Please, everyone be safe.............


4. Is getting a torch necessary to do this job? How about a heat gun?

A heat gun (~1500W) won't be hot enough. MAP gas is barely hot enough. Acetylene ideal.

5. On a scale of 1-10, how difficult would you say this job is?

With 1 being an oil change and 10 being a motor swap, I would give it a 5.

I work on cars (35 years) as a hobby and to save money. If you lived in PA you could pull your car in my garage and we could make the repairs safely. I work for free. Your lack of tools and your strut question is a concern. I was young once. I have been there....,but had a professional mechanic (Uncle) to guide me and keep me safe. Please, everyone put safety first.
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#7 Old 02-13-2011, 01:32 PM
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Your post shows a good picture of the Rear Motor Mount bracket that is bolted into the frame's cross member and its center through bolt.. The whole area and back of engine should be degreased before a torch is used. When using a torch, a fire extinguisher should be close by.

Last edited by ETCdude1; 02-13-2011 at 01:33 PM.
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#8 Old 02-13-2011, 01:41 PM
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I've done this job on a 93 (3VZ) and also a 95 (1MZ). I opted for taking the mount out of the car. If I recall it was about 4 hours to do the job. I had to take the mount bracket to a machine shop to have the old mount pressed out and the new one pressed in (cost $35). Since I am used to this method, to me it looks more difficult to do this in the car. Pretty impressive that you found a way to do it in the car.
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#9 Old 02-13-2011, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ETCdude1 View Post
Your post shows a good picture of the Rear Motor Mount bracket that is bolted into the frame's cross member and its center through bolt.. The whole area and back of engine should be degreased before a torch is used. When using a torch, a fire extinguisher should be close by.
Thanks for the info.
I'm undecided if I want to invest in the tools needed to do this job as it seems it may be beyond my skill level.
Will decide this week if I will pursue it or just take the car to the dealer.

Again, thanks

1MZ-FE - 341,xxx Miles
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#10 Old 02-16-2011, 06:40 PM
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A local mechanic should be able to do it at 1/2 the price of the dealership. If you show up with part in hand you can save more since the shops mark up the price of parts. Let them know you were going to do it but decided not to. If they give you crap about part in hand then find a better shop.

Harbor Freight is a good source to get tools. China stuff will probably last the weekend mechanic a long time, but last a prof mechanic a few months if that.
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