3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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My father's 95 Nissan Quest does the same thing on at 211K miles. It will not shift into second when it's cold. Of course, reverse gear has gone out and three bottle of Lucas is in the pan. I think it's due to the valve body sticking due to age and that worn ATF loses it effectives and thicken more when cold. Once it warms up, it shifts almost fine...still no reverse.
Only when cold, car holds first gear up to 5k RPM before shifting. After a few minutes the car shifts just as it should.
Any thoughts? Thanks!
Jason
Are you certain that it's 1st gear, rather than 2nd or 3rd?
The software control of the transmission intentionally keeps the transmission in a lower gear until it warms slightly. Either let the engine warm up before hitting the highway, or accept the behavior.
Are you certain that it's 1st gear, rather than 2nd or 3rd?
Either let the engine warm up before hitting the highway, or accept the behavior.
This is a new behavior, not old. The car never went up to 5k RPM while warming up.
I guess I'll change the fluid/filter first and see if that makes a difference. It's time anyway. After that I'll start looking into valve bodies. Has anybody replaced the VB before?
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1997 Toyota 204k miles. Runs like a champ.
This is a new behavior, not old. The car never went up to 5k RPM while warming up.
I guess I'll change the fluid/filter first and see if that makes a difference. It's time anyway. After that I'll start looking into valve bodies. Has anybody replaced the VB before?
When it come to having to replace the valve body, might as well replace/rebuilt the transmission. Mixing new and old hard parts in an auto transmission never worked well. Also, if the transmission has never been serviced for that long (205k mi) changing the ATF can damage the transmission. Some say the bits and pieces floating in the ATF are what help worn out clutch pack engaging if the fluid have not regularly serviced. Others say that new fluid can dislodge bits and it can clog other parts of the valve body. Then some people never have problems. It’s a 50/50 shoot.
I would first check for leaks and the fluid level. If the ATF is low; then that can cause a delay in shifting. Warm up the vehicle and drive for a bit. Park on a level surface and keeps the engine running after shifting through all the gears and back to park. Find the transmission dipstick (between battery and exhaust manifold) and check the level. You might have to wipe it down to check. There should be four markings; a Low and High/full for Cold and a Low and High/Full for Hot (Maybe just Low and High/full). You want the fluid level just at High on Hot. If it’s low add Dexron 3 ATF through the dipstick tube. Check and repeat until it’s full and avoid overfilling. Do this with the engine running or it will give a incorrect reading. It will be hot so be careful.
If all else fails, you can take it to a local transmission shop. Most will perform free checks but be VERY careful. Many shops will BS the issue to get the job.
Well I changed the fluid and filter today. It was really dirty, but no metal shavings.
After fill up I took it for a drive and it seemed to shift a little better.
The thing now is that when I put it in reverse I heard a quick whining sound that goes away after a second or two. Has this happened to anybody before? Anybody have an idea what may be causing this sound?
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1997 Toyota 204k miles. Runs like a champ.
when engine is completely dead cold like in morning, then ECU (e.g. on 1mz-fe V6 engine) actually holds car in 1st gear up to like 3k rpm until it starts warming up (temp gauge needle starts moving up on dash) and then it shifts better, e.g. 2nd gear until 3k rpm (in city driving).
5s-fe 2.2L warms up quickly and it doesn't seem to have this "feature" programmed into ECU, at least it's hard to notice.
don't hit the highway with such cold engine or you risk damaging internal components at 5k rpm with completely cold oil (no proper lubrication) !! let it warm up for a minute or five at least depending how far the highway entry ramp is.
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
Well it gave up reverse today. Guess it's time for a rebuild. Ten years and 170k miles on her, with a total of 206k. I'll accept that. Now if I can just find a decent shop and a good price for a rebuild.
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1997 Toyota 204k miles. Runs like a champ.
I found a guy who will rebuilt it for 1k with a one yr unlimited warranty, sounds fair enough. I think I'm going that route rather than swapping it out with a used one. I can do that cheaper, but if it poops itself I'm SOL.
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1997 Toyota 204k miles. Runs like a champ.
I found a guy who will rebuilt it for 1k with a one yr unlimited warranty, sounds fair enough. I think I'm going that route rather than swapping it out with a used one. I can do that cheaper, but if it poops itself I'm SOL.
Thats not that bad of a deal. Mark your transmission (put a scratch or something noticeable in a good spot) to make sure he's just not swapping it.
Drive it hard the first few hundred miles to make sure its good.
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