3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
unless your paint job now is COMPLETELY beaten up and totally chipped, flaked, etc.. I'd say don't do it. I tried to do it to my trunk cause I got a spoiler and now I have an ugly black trunk, and its really ugly. idk if I did it right but I'd say do it on a junkyard panel for practice if you must insist on doing it. if you can't get it right on the panel, don't do it on your car.
I used paint thinner which wasn't mineral spirits brand. Ended up making the black look dark gray. Also after a few months it began peeling off in sheets and eventually I ripped the whole thing off but unfortunately I had spray bombed it and so now its just black spray paint.
Take a look at the Flat-Black Super Street car. They painted it flat black, and the guy said that it looked like crap, but with the lighting perfect and an excellent camera they made it look good.
Go the extra mile and purchase good Single Stage paint and paint it yourself. It will cost you around $300-$500.00 for all the supplies you need to paint it yourself.
Its your car though, so in the end its all your decision.
i spray painted mine and it came out pretty good. i didnt see the need to even wetsand. my only problem was finding the right color to use. well another problem that is starting to happen after about 5 months of being on the car, its starting to chip from road debris.
If you're only painting a panel or two, I would order a base/clear coat areosol sprays that matches the factory paint. Your results will be far superior to *any* rustoleum paint. I've done this on several projects and I have been very pleased with the results. My last project was a repaint of the front bumper cover and hood on my 97 Camry (White). You can't tell it wasn't professionally sprayed.
I order from R&E paint supply on line. The have a two part clear coat that allows you to add hardener right before you spray it. It's a much better quality than the duplicolor stuff. But, the duplicolor is cheaper. If you are working within a tight budget, this is still much better than rustoleum.
HTH
Tom
the most important thing will be to work in as clean a space as possible. try to make a paint booth if you can. keeping temp stable, no wind and particulate to a minimum will make it much better.
Its ridiculously time consuming. But if your WHOLE car is fugly beyond believe and you have the time to keep the car parked for at least 4-5 days go for it. The results this guy got are awesome. Dunno how this stuff holds up on plastic.
Oh yeah and he used a roller. (I read about this in a magazine a couple years back)
I painted my Cam's rear spoiler (originally red from a salvage yard), with a two stage color match system mixed up a a local paint shop and put into cans. The results were stunning, it maybe looked a little too good on the otherwise 17year-old car. This was a small surface, but I've done it on bumpers in a non-metalic finish and it also looked great. Good surface preparation and a clean environment are really important though. The base and clear were also about $20/ can, so if you are going to do a really big area, this could cost alot in paint.
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Domesticon Prime
93' LE V-6, 303K Km., fully optioned including Leather Interior. ES300 rear discs, twin piston front calipers, Depo Chromes with HID projectors, 17" OZ' summer's, 96 corner lights, MAF, timing, exhaust and intake mods, 2001 Toyota/JBL sound, + more and always more coming.
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