Hard Shifts when driving slow or cold

[fr00d]

Hi,

First post - forgive me if I miss anything...

Basically, I have noticed lately that there is a small jolt (no noises or anything) when shifting gears when the car is warming up, or at low speeds (such as in traffic). The jolt seems to be the worst going from 1st to 2nd, but is noticable at all gears. Also, it occurs intermittently after it has warmed up - about half the time it shifts perfectly. A little backround:

Car info - 2000 Camry LE 4 cylinder, ~125k miles, auto trannsmission
Transmission maintenence:
- previous owner claims they had the pan dropped around 40k.
- had it flushed at 112k with multi-vehicle fluid (maybe this caused problems)
- recently dropped the pan again (122k), which improved the jumpiness but didnt fix it. used Castrol import multi vehicle fluid

I verified that the fluid level is correct (is at the "cold" level after a cold start, shifting down and up through gears, then checking while car is in park. It is at "hot" level after 20 minute drive to work - let me know if this is not the correct level)

My questions basically are:
1. Is this something that indicates a major problem in the future that I should address now? I don't mind the hard shifts, i'm just worried that something is wrong mechanically.
2. Any ideas for things I could try to potentially fix this on my own?

I have found some similar threads, but none matched exactly what I was seeing, and most just said "drop the pan" or "check fluid level". Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[deadrx7conv]

Bad engine or transmission mount.

Toss in a bottle of Lubegard Red.

Flushing and multivehicle fluids don't cause problems.

Clean up your chassis and electrical grounds.

Engine state of tune can cause trans to shift weird.

Bad trans solenoid, TPS, or VSS can cause similar issues.

[jon1000]

Check your throttle valve cable adjustment. If it is too tight, it will make the shift quicker and more abrupt. Some would say hard.

[fr00d]

Thanks for the help!

I'll try the valve cable tomorrow (seems easy enough) and then grab a bottle of the lubegard. I'll keep you posted!

deadrx7conv - i recently replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs, and air filter - any other tuning items you would recommend?

Thanks!

[fenixus]

Originally Posted by fr00d

Thanks for the help!

I'll try the valve cable tomorrow (seems easy enough) and then grab a bottle of the lubegard. I'll keep you posted!

deadrx7conv - i recently replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs, and air filter - any other tuning items you would recommend?

Thanks!

you can replace a few of other less important things too (or less often going bad):

a) spark plug wires, e.g. NGK TE58 (~$30 at amazon)

b) PCV valve and grommet (get from dealer for best results)

c) drive belts (alternator/ac and power steering), Dayco, Mitsuboshi, Bando, Good Year are your friends

d) new fuel tank cap (get from dealer)

e) new radiator cap (get from dealer)

f) coolant drain, replace thermostat and gasket (get from dealer) and refill.

g) don't forget to drain and refill the differential (it IS separate on your 4cylinder car)

h) brake fluid flush, maybe new pads and rotors resurfacing?

[fr00d]

fenixus,

thanks for the suggestions! I was thiknig about doing the differential drain/refill - think that the could help with my problem? (I'll probably do it in either case but just curious).

[fenixus]

I doubt it will help hard shifting problem ... but do it anyways before it's too late. seems it wasn't done since 80k miles or if ever...

if you have black mud over there already then you may notice some improvement in car's rolling resistance or even some in shifting a little bit, but I wouldn't expect miracles from it

Castrol IMV is a very good fluid. synthetic blend.

try the transmission kick down cable adjustment per FSM first (basically make it so no rubber tip is sticking out).

Originally Posted by fr00d

fenixus,

thanks for the suggestions! I was thiknig about doing the differential drain/refill - think that the could help with my problem? (I'll probably do it in either case but just curious).

[Stillrunning]

I would try to determine if you're getting a shift lag, increase in RPMs, then hard shift as opposed to just a hard shift. Also see if it hard shifts in D and/or in manual shifting. Most hard shifting seems to point to pressure control in the valve body (on vehicle repair) such as regulator valve or throttle valve. You can get a pressure test done at an honest (hard to come by) trans shop. I'd first do what has already been suggested, complete trans fluid flush/replace and adjust the throttle cable. A bad engine mount (already mentioned) may appear to be a hard shift.

[fr00d]

Hi StillRunning,

the shifts seem to happen at the right time (around 2-2.5k when accelerating slowly, around 3.5k with heavy accelleration). I also have noticed that it is slow to decellerate.

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by fr00d

I also have noticed that it is slow to decellerate.

I'm no trans expert but that may indicate a modulator valve.

recently dropped the pan again (122k), which improved the jumpiness but didnt fix it

Did you do a complete flush or just what was in the pan? What color is the trans fluid? It may be possible to rebuild the valve body, but I'd get an expert opinion first. You can remove the valve body yourself to save some labor. If you're doing a complete flush it wouldn't hurt to remove the pan and inspect/clean the filter/screen to make sure dirt is not partially blocking it.

[carsrus]

Its completely normal. All cars have a tendency to not shift as smooth until they warm up. The "jolt" when your in stop and go traffic etc is the car wanting to go into second but there just enough speed so it shifts up hard.

All cars do this to a point. Nothing to freak up about.

[deadrx7conv]

Slow to decelerate is called coasting. Nothing wrong with that.
Slow to downshift is normal for every transmission. Thank the EPA for the MPG shift algorithm's.

Is this vehicle new to you? is this something that it has never done before? or has it always been like that?

Unless someone tampered with the shift cable, it usually doesn't need to be touched. I find that many will under or over adjust it. Since the issue is intermittent, I'd inspect it and lean toward leaving it alone. Typically, adjustment is mandatory after replacement of a component, like your engine, or trans, or if the cable breaks. I do worry that it is mentioned here too damn often.

With the mild improvement after the 122k pan drop, exercise the AT pan's drain plugs more frequently and switch to a higher quality fluid. But, nothing will rebuild a worn out transmission due to abuse and negligence. Highmileage ATFs(Castrol or Valvoline) tend to help. Full synthetics help transmissions perform much better when cold. None of my transmissions have shift shock. And the differential has its own drain/fill plugs and is definitely overdue if never serviced(commonly forgotten).

When checking the ATF level, the vehicle needs to be running and on a level surface. 20 minute ride should bring you to the top of the hot area which is good. Cold level means NOTHING and is for damage prevention reference only. Hot level is correct and critical.

Drive more gently until you sort out the issue. My 4cyl '99 with more miles shifts perfectly. This is a great generation of a vehicle, very reliable and cheap to run. The only thing I fear is that the ATF maintenance in 12 years was overly negligent.

Add a bottle of quality FI cleaner to your next gas fill up. Don't forget to bleed the brakes, change the coolant, and PSF. Don't forget the timing belt too. If it breaks on the 2.2L, you can toss in a new belt. So your only inconvenienced for a tow and rental for the day.

[fr00d]

Originally Posted by Stillrunning

Did you do a complete flush or just what was in the pan? What color is the trans fluid?

I replaced the filter and gasket - I did not flush it because it had been flushed at 112k. The color was deep red - didint notice any metal in it or annything.

I tried adjusting the throttle valve a little to match the image above - it seemed to help a little but it didn't completely fix it. I'll probably try the lubegard before getting a shop involved.

Thanks for all the help so far!

[fr00d]

Is this vehicle new to you? is this something that it has never done before? or has it always been like that?

I have had the car since about 50k - I didnt really notice anything with the shifting until recently (within the last 10k miles). I don't remember when exactly it started, but it definately didn't always do it

[fr00d]

an update - I added the lubegard red and things seem better now, but I can still feel it jump a little from 1 to 2 (moreso when cold). Do you think this is something that needs attention or it will get worse, or can I just let it be? I don't really mind it as it is, its not harsh at all.

fenixus - i tried to do the diff flush today but the filler bolt will not come off. probably will have it done in the next couple weeks.

Thanks again for all the suggestions!