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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 03-08-2011, 09:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Code #p0446

Need some help. Went to a Toyota specalist. The check engine light was on. Pulled the P0446 code. Replaced a non Toyota fuel cap. Light went off. Went to get it tested(California) and the light went on with the same code. Passed the 15 and 25 mph test. Can someone comment on what is going on. I am going to take it back in and see what they say. What else is there that can cause this code. I am having nightmares that I will continue replacing parts and still having problems. Would it be better to take it to a Toyota Dealership?
Thanks/Diane
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Old 03-08-2011, 11:57 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It may be the VSV sticking a bit and if the metal tabs don't break can probably use a cleaning:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=817604
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Old 03-09-2011, 12:28 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Here's a DIY for the P0446 problem which I had before. The vacuum switching valve can stick/fail and lead to this code. I tried to buy just the VSV itself but Toyota only sales it with the charcoal canister for $150+. I just when to the local pick & pull and got another VSV. Replaced and fixed; haven't come back on. Before this, I replaced the fuel cap with no luck too.

P0446 VSV DIY: DIY : P0446 Charcoal canister VSV replacement
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Last edited by Yuko; 03-10-2011 at 06:08 PM. Reason: wrong link corrected
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Old 03-10-2011, 05:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Update

Went back for a "smoke test" and they said the charcoal canister needs to be replaced and almost had a heart attack when they gave me the price. My husband is pretty handy and I was wondering if there are any DIY posts for us to look at and where can I buy the parts at a low cost. Thank you for the previous replys/help. The car is a 1999 Camey 4cyl.
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Old 03-10-2011, 06:16 PM   #5 (permalink)
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you can try junk yard charcoal canister, but chances are it will be bad as well ...

try PM'ing member TOYOPARTSMAN (Toyota dealer from Newnan, GA) for a quote on brand new OEM one with TN 30% off MSRP discount. he's got also reasonable shipping charges on single item orders. include car's VIN# in message.

you can check your part number here (give it car's VIN):
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts

I also believe there was a TSB on faulty charcoal canister design failing prematurely in camry i4 97-99, but I can remember wrong, maybe someone else remembers it better.

anyways, VSV is worth checking ahead of spending any serious money on replacement parts.
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Old 03-10-2011, 06:17 PM   #6 (permalink)
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^Sorry, I posted the wrong link earlier. I corrected it.

The most common cause of damaging the charcoal canister is overfilling the gas tank. I have done that a few time but it haven’t cause it to fail. The VSV on the other hand is underneath the car exposed to the weather and can easily fail; tried replacing that first. The VSV can be tested easily by jumping 12V into the plug; if it clicks, it’s good. If not, get a used one from the salvage yard before spending on a new canister.
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Old 03-10-2011, 07:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Toyota started the then new canister design with Gen 4. It had a lot of problems back then. It can disintegrated on the inside and send carbon dust all over the evap system (but you will usually get multiple codes for this, which I don't think is the case yet).

However, I'd remove and test the VSV first. These things can stick over time. The same with the EVAP VSV on the air filter housing. The metal tabs can be carefully bent back and the little piston cleaned.

Begin with the simple things first.
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Old 03-10-2011, 10:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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No mention of year or engine. . . just a CA car. . .
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Old 03-11-2011, 11:48 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Update

First once again thank you to everyone for the responses and help. My husband got under the car and the vsv has a part number of 9091012271. The garage said it was a valve inside the charcoal canister that was the problem so at this point I am a little confused. He was able to disconnect all the rubber tubing(and inspect it) but stopped at the electrical because he said got the black strain relief off, unlatched two caps holding the two wires and did not want to go any farther because he was not sure exactly how to disconnect the wires and did not want to start pulling on them. As mentioned earlier can the vsv valve be cleaned to make it operation again(9v battery and see if it clicks) or is it best just to replace the valve. I also found a DIY on youtube that showed the replacement.
Once again thanks/Diane
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