Tie-Rods/Ball Joint/CV Boot- Napa or Toyota?

[pmesfun]

I'm leaning towards going with Napa stuff, as Mr. Perkins said he hasn't had any problems with aftermarket tie-rods. For everything, $202.78 from toyota and $134.14 from Napa.

What would you get?

[JohnGD]

NAPA used to carry a lot of Dana chassis products. Dana spun off Raybestos division to Affinia. So my guess you'll be getting Raybestos from NAPA. Check out Raybestos prices on rockauto.

How about Moog from rockauto? $46.79 inner tie rod end, $37.99 outer (for Avalon).

Inner (no pics for outer):
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=202561

Originally Posted by pmesfun

I'm leaning towards going with Napa stuff, as Mr. Perkins said he hasn't had any problems with aftermarket tie-rods. For everything, $202.78 from toyota and $134.14 from Napa.

What would you get?

[pmesfun]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

NAPA used to carry a lot of Dana chassis products. Dana spun off Raybestos division to Affinia. So my guess you'll be getting Raybestos from NAPA. Check out Raybestos prices on rockauto.

How about Moog from rockauto? $46.79 inner tie rod end, $37.99 outer (for Avalon).

Inner (no pics for outer):
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=202561

Opps, I meant outer tie-rod ends.

Moog is more expensive than Toyota, so that's not an option.

Raybestos on Rock Auto is more expensive than the NAPA one, since the NAPA one must be the service not professional grade.
Napa Outer Tie-Rod End:
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50070+2070001
Rock Auto Raybestos Pro. Grade
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1031304
Is there a difference between the two grades?

Napa Ball Joint:
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50070+2070001
1 year, 12k mile warranty on both from Napa.

[LynchburgCSI]

Have you tried contacting Gary for a price on Toyota stuff? He offers a good discount for TN members.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/219261-toyopartsman.html
http://www.toyotaofnewnan.com/Department-Parts.aspx

[pmesfun]

Yeah, but my local dealers are cheaper.

The only thing I might go Toyota is on the ball joints. If the NAPA fail prematurely it won't be as easy to replace as the tie-rods. I just comparing right now.

[JohnGD]

NAPA carries different grades too. One looks like the greasable Raybestos (NCP 2692843, your rockauto link) costs $49.49 at NAPA. However, both Raybestos pro/service grade pictures look the same to me on rockauto.

There are cheaper outer tie rods like the $19.49 (MRC ES3306, your NAPA link). I don't know about the $13.59 and the $11.62 ones, maybe those are disposable grade?

IMO, either Moog (limited lifetime warranty) or just get a Toyota OEM outer tie rod end.

Moog Warranty:
http://www.rockauto.com/lang/en/warranties.html#moog

Originally Posted by pmesfun

Opps, I meant outer tie-rod ends.

Moog is more expensive than Toyota, so that's not an option.

Raybestos on Rock Auto is more expensive than the NAPA one, since the NAPA one must be the service not professional grade.
Napa Outer Tie-Rod End:
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50070+2070001
Rock Auto Raybestos Pro. Grade
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1031304
Is there a difference between the two grades?

Napa Ball Joint:
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50070+2070001
1 year, 12k mile warranty on both from Napa.

[pmesfun]

Ok, thanks. I will get outer tie rods from Toyota. What about the ball joints? Toyota also?

[JohnGD]

Might as well. Toyota ones are non-greasable, and sometimes that's convenient. I personally spec Moog joints however, but every oil change or other oil change you have to check the grease by pumping some new grease in there. Can be a hassle.

Originally Posted by pmesfun

Ok, thanks. I will get outer tie rods from Toyota. What about the ball joints? Toyota also?

[pmesfun]

Ok, if this doesn't solve the suspension popping noises and the jerk in the steering wheel when going over lane markers and bumps. I give up.

[LynchburgCSI]

Originally Posted by pmesfun

Ok, if this doesn't solve the suspension popping noises and the jerk in the steering wheel when going over lane markers and bumps. I give up.

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/videos.php

Educate yourself.

[pmesfun]

Thanks, unfortunately the only video that wasn't working was the lower control arm bushing inspection.

[LynchburgCSI]

Watch EVERYTHING you can anyways. It's basically just a process of moving parts around and seeing where there's play.

[JohnGD]

If the LCA bushing is like what you showed in the picture of another thread then it may be time. Except the picture had welded sheet metal LCA, so it may get expensive having to replace the entire thing instead of bushings alone ($30-40 per side). So verify the source first before swapping parts.

Originally Posted by pmesfun

Ok, if this doesn't solve the suspension popping noises and the jerk in the steering wheel when going over lane markers and bumps. I give up.

[pmesfun]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

If the LCA bushing is like what you showed in the picture of another thread then it may be time. Except the picture had welded sheet metal LCA, so it may get expensive having to replace the entire thing instead of bushings alone ($30-40 per side). So verify the source first before swapping parts.

What other parts usually cause my problem. Ball joints? The struts/mounts and sway bar bushings are fairly new.
here is a link from ES parts for installation instructions(pdf). Doesn't look too bad.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sion/17397.pdf

[dudutzu]

Originally Posted by pmesfun

Thanks, unfortunately the only video that wasn't working was the lower control arm bushing inspection.

there is a little info about it in the "upper control arm", just watch to the end