3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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Rear Valve Cover Gasket and the Cam Seal Bearing Cap. My teacher said Permatex isn't the best, hence why the gasket and cam seal cap is already leaking in 3 months.
Ahh, well...all I can say is in my experience, it didn't leak for me and I believe others have recommended this (at least the forums I read regarding sealing the oil pan).
You sure you went back and re-torqued all the nuts after a few days of driving?
What do you need it for? There are different permatex equivalents for different purposes. Ultra Grey Sensor Safe RTV for Oil Pan and valve cover IIRC.
__________________ 1995 Camry DX L4 178,6XX miles and counting each mile.... acquired 05/25/2007 at 129K miles
2004 Mazda6 I4 5-Speed Manual 115,500 miles acquired 01/21/2011 at 109,XXX miles
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Ahh, well...all I can say is in my experience, it didn't leak for me and I believe others have recommended this (at least the forums I read regarding sealing the oil pan).
You sure you went back and re-torqued all the nuts after a few days of driving?
I guess I put too much sealant and it created an uneven surface so it started leaking recently. I have the V6 so the bolts are tight, I made sure of that.
So I guessing the Ultra Blue isn't any good, but High Temp Red is?
Sorry if I'm being annoying, but I'm just tired of working on this car and repeating the same mistakes. I want to get it right this time.
I can't say whether blue or red is better. I think even if you put too much, it should even out. I don't know about a V6, but for the I4, the manual says to put them on the curves and cam seals; my point being not everywhere, just in those locations.
Tight doesn't necessarily mean good. I believe if you tighten it too much, you can crush the gasket and it will start leaking again. For the 1MZ-FE engine, I believe the bolts are supposed to be torqued to 8Nm. To do this, you might want to start tightening them starting with 4Nm, then going to 8Nm. Also, to get a uniform fit, you should start tightening the bolts that are CENTER to the cylinder head cover, then working your way out.
I can't say whether blue or red is better. I think even if you put too much, it should even out. I don't know about a V6, but for the I4, the manual says to put them on the curves and cam seals; my point being not everywhere, just in those locations.
Tight doesn't necessarily mean good. I believe if you tighten it too much, you can crush the gasket and it will start leaking again. For the 1MZ-FE engine, I believe the bolts are supposed to be torqued to 8Nm. To do this, you might want to start tightening them starting with 4Nm, then going to 8Nm. Also, to get a uniform fit, you should start tightening the bolts that are CENTER to the cylinder head cover, then working your way out.
If you need a copy of the manual, PM me.
I put a bead on the rear side facing the firewall hoping it will never leak again, but it started seeping recently. So yeah I over did it.
That is what I did on the front valve cover gasket, under the cam seal cap and specified places in the manual with FIPG. No leaks from there anymore. This was at school, so I don't have it at home.
Yeah I torqued them to specs last time, just started to seep now.
The ultra blue looks dry rotted on the gasket after time, while the red stuff I saw on fen's car looks like it just came out of the tube.
I guess I put too much sealant and it created an uneven surface so it started leaking recently. I have the V6 so the bolts are tight, I made sure of that.
So I guessing the Ultra Blue isn't any good, but High Temp Red is?
Sorry if I'm being annoying, but I'm just tired of working on this car and repeating the same mistakes. I want to get it right this time.
Thanks John and everyone else. I will get the Ultra Gray and a New Rear Valve Cover Gasket tomorrow. Also wondering if adding a washer to each rear bolt is a good idea like ajaikan did on his V6? I'm thinking it might crush the gasket by doing this.
Did you also re-torque the bolts after driving for awhile?
Yeah, so you might wanna try the red stuff? or grey stuff that peshwa suggested? or something else?
Do make sure to wipe the mating surfaces with alcohol and allow to dry. The RTV need to stick to the surfaces, so oily surfaces won't do.
The blue is not bad, I even used dabs of water pump RTV and that worked. But that's when I don't feel like opening up a new tube of Grey or Copper. The copper is smellier than the grey for some reason.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmesfun
I put a bead on the rear side facing the firewall hoping it will never leak again, but it started seeping recently. So yeah I over did it.
That is what I did on the front valve cover gasket, under the cam seal cap and specified places in the manual with FIPG. No leaks from there anymore. This was at school, so I don't have it at home.
Yeah I torqued them to specs last time, just started to seep now.
The ultra blue looks dry rotted on the gasket after time, while the red stuff I saw on fen's car looks like it just came out of the tube.
The original bolts have those wavy washers that wear out like weak springs. Yes, either new bolts or add washers or your new gaskets won't seal.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmesfun
Thanks John and everyone else. I will get the Ultra Gray and a New Rear Valve Cover Gasket tomorrow. Also wondering if adding a washer to each rear bolt is a good idea like ajaikan did on his V6? I'm thinking it might crush the gasket by doing this.
The High Temp red Permatex is NOT o2 sensor safe. It even says on the packaging to not use it in pre 1975ish engines. I have a good amount of this stuff and only use it on my small engine lawnmowers etc.
Permatex makes the best sealers, they have this stuff called "The Right Stuff", only thing I keep in the shop. It can be used everywhere except gasoline and its really worth the added money.
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