Gen4 battery tray bracket?

[vincentfox]

Does anyone have a photo of how the Gen4 battery tray bracket should be attached?

I have a 1997 Camry LE and it looks to have been refitted with some rubber covered red thing that I think is not factory original. This one uses long bolts down to a point below the battery tray.

I think the original bracket had some sort of arm that screwed onto the body near the grille. How did that work? A bolt from below with a wingnut above?

[adalex]

can u take a pic of how yours looks and circle which thing your talking about? I'd be happy to take a pic but I'm not sure if your talking about the tray underneath or the one on top

[vincentfox]

By "bracket" I am referring to the part on top which stabilizes position, not the lower tray which carries the weight.

The bracket I have on top now is corroded and ugly, and anyhow my preference is to return things to "factory" condition when I replace parts. Just tying to establish what exactly that looks like. I'll see about a photo later.

Thanks!

[adalex]

I'm looking at some pics and it looks like theres actually two types of the bracket on top assuming you don't need the rod and the nut that goes on it, in the back between the battery and the air box theres also a nut on the side behind the driver side headlight but theres a different part number depending on whether its a us built or Japan built, its us built if your vin starts with 4T and japan built if the vin starts with J

oh and on your sticker on the driver side door can you tell me what month your car was made? ie mine is 05/99
thanks

I'll go take a pic right now I'm kinda curious which type of bracket i have too now :P

[adalex]

Enjoy hope this helps apparently judging by it the types are dependent on whether you have daytime running lights since the bracket holds the drl fuse box


Back


Right side


Left side


Front (note metal arm for drl box)


Top


Behind back facing down


2 random pics I took since I was out there :P
(notice fancy dancy TRD Rad cap that I installed yesterday)


Fancy OEM Fogs that I installed last year let me know if your interested

[vincentfox]

OK a few quick pics of what I have now:



And the stub previous owner left jammed in there:



Is the Exide Select a pretty decent battery? May replace it sometime this year it's 5 years old now.

[pmesfun]

If it works, I would leave it like that. If not, remove the broken stud and pick up the correct hardware from the junkyard.

[adalex]

heres a pic of the parts involved, with 1 of the parts it matters if your car is us built or japan built and from what I can tell you don't have daytime running lights so I think you have Type A

IE if you look at the bolt on the top left it has 2 different p/ns and on the left it says NAP and JPP. NAP is Us built JPP is Japan built


Heres the site that goes with that pic
http://www.toyotapartszone.com/1997/...y-carrier.html

just match up the PNC #s on the left of the second link with the pic

Don't go on my word what you need call Gary Smith at Toyota of Newnan in Georgia #678-854-9601 and ask for Gary and tell him your from toyotanation he gives 30% and example of when your car was made

ie the battery tray for production date 1996.07-1997.08 not only is a different price but prolly also shaped differently than the one thats says 1997.08- so make sure you call gary and just say your from toyotanation and give him your vin and he should be able to figure out what you need assuming your want to get the clamp,bolt nuts etc if your still not sure and want me to help you just give me a call tomorrow after 1pm est (after I get off work). I pmed you my #

[vincentfox]

Originally Posted by pmesfun

If it works, I would leave it like that. If not, remove the broken stud and pick up the correct hardware from the junkyard.

Hah hah, it works OK, just looks ugly. Rubber covers are all split and leaks from previous owner battery corroded the metal under to hell. Maybe it's a little bit of OCD I want it back to factory.

Not sure how to remove the stub yet, tried vise grips but it's a short stub and the bolt remnant is slippery metal couldn't get a good pinch to turn it out. Will squirt lube in there, try again. Maybe with a small bit I could drill out the center without damaging the threads.

Unfortunately no junkyards here, I have to go a good 30 miles to Rancho Cordova. I go there for larger items but for small items it's easier for me to hit the dealership in town. They are actually reasonable for small stuff.

[adalex]

fox did my info help at all?

[vincentfox]

Originally Posted by adalex

fox did my info help at all?

Yes very much. Just picking through the problem slowly. Right now tinkering with removing the sheared bolt stub. Sprayed WD-40 hoping to loosen it I assume there's rust in the threads. I tried hacksawing a nice slot into the top so I could turn it off with a flathead, but the metal is so soft that on each side of the slot it starts to deform if I torque hard without giving me any movement. Hmmmm....

[adalex]

id still welcome a call if you'd like, i like meeting people on here and maybe i can help trouble shoot. my number is in your messages

[LynchburgCSI]

Originally Posted by vincentfox

Yes very much. Just picking through the problem slowly. Right now tinkering with removing the sheared bolt stub. Sprayed WD-40 hoping to loosen it I assume there's rust in the threads. I tried hacksawing a nice slot into the top so I could turn it off with a flathead, but the metal is so soft that on each side of the slot it starts to deform if I torque hard without giving me any movement. Hmmmm....

http://www.blastercorporation.com/

[vincentfox]

Thanks for all the help. I'm still learning, and gradually restoring this 1997 LE.

BTW none of the usual tricks worked, had to drill it out of there. The bolt is a standard 10mm bolt and the dealership gave me one for free. Anyways cleaned up the battery area and put it back right, here's a pic:

[pmesfun]

Looks good.