3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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My #1 cylinder spark plug tube (97 5sfe) is pooling oil on top of the plug, to the point where the tip of the wire is completely submerged in oil.
Now, the only possible thing I can see causing this is the tube is not fully seated in the head and not glued in like it should be. So I want to take it off, install a new one using adhesive.
In the FSM, they show the cylinder head being disassembled, completely, but do not show removal of the spark plug tubes. They do, however, show installation of the tubes.
I guess my question in this long winded post is how do I remove the spark plug tubes? I've heard pipe wrenches but that's a terrible idea.
I used a pipe wrench a couple years ago to remove and tighten the spark plug tubes. I also cover the valve train with rags to prevent any bits of flacks that can fall onto the cams. It was an easy job and I reseal all four tubes.
I don't know, I tried channel locks once and that just didn't budge it at all. Next time I'm working at SECW I'll see if those guys have any ideas/tools on how to fix it.
There is a special tool used to removed the spark plug tubes. It grips the tubes from the inside using the top bolt and removed by a wrench. Part number: ASSTOY150
A pipe wrench is still the best substitute to remove the tubes. Some say they are a pain to remove (mine wasn't) but a long pipe wrench will give you the leverage needed to unscrew them.
This is something I'm looking at doing when I get around to rebuilding my distributor.
I went to the depot today and looked at the Strap wrenches and the Huskie one's were going for $8.xx. Beats paying $60 for an asstoy lol
I tried a pipe wrench too whenever I did the valve cover gasket change a year ago and none of the tubes moved at all.
^ I can't really foresee a strap wrench being able to grip a smooth metal cylinder enough to loosen the glue + I think 34 ft. lbs. it's torqued to.
But maybe I'll try that before I ruin the tubes...
I tried a pipe wrench (only a foot long though...) on the spare head's tubes and nothing, but maybe these fresh tubes with only 9k miles will be easier to pull off....
^ I can't really foresee a strap wrench being able to grip a smooth metal cylinder enough to loosen the glue + I think 34 ft. lbs. it's torqued to.
But maybe I'll try that before I ruin the tubes...
I tried a pipe wrench (only a foot long though...) on the spare head's tubes and nothing, but maybe these fresh tubes with only 9k miles will be easier to pull off....
You might try a 3/4" or 1" wooden dowel. You can get them at Home Depot. Get one that's a bit smaller diameter than the tube, and then wrap it with ordinary letterhead paper until it just slips into the tube. Then you can grab it with a pipe wrench and not collapse the tube. Don't use masking tape, since it can be compressed easily. The paper can be wrapped tightly and won't compress much. You could also use popsicle sticks wedged between the dowel and the walls of the tube if you can find the right combination of thickness. Good excuse to eat a couple of Dilly Bars.
You might try retorquing the spark plug tube nuts first. Torque them to 17 ft. lbs in 3 passes of 6, 12, and then 17 foot lbs., switching from cylinder 2, then 4, then 1 and finally 3. Many times this solves the problem of oil pooling down in the base of the tubes. Many people have found the nuts to only be finger tight after years of compressing the seals and from all the vibration. This takes less than 5 minutes and may solve your problem. Clean up the oil inside the spark plug tube first.
Mike
PS: A long white plastic wire tie makes a good dipstick for checking to see if there is still oil pooling down in the bottom of those tubes.
take off the valve cover. Take one of the nuts for the spark plug tubes and screw it on upside-down, take another one of the nuts and screw it on right-side up and get it really tight against the upside down nut using two 30mm or two adjustable wrenches. You should then be able to unscrew the tube with a wrench on the bottom nut. If it doesn't work try with three nuts.
Edit: I once again agree with mike though, try just re torquing them first, that worked for mine. The same nut trick should work for tightening them as well.
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