Engine Oil Flush Treatements-Safe?

[Silent Runner]

I recently did a valve cover gasket replacement on both banks of my 93' Camry's 3VZ-FE. This engine has 283K. Km., or about 160k m. and stills runs like new, but it is stained dark, and has way to much in the way of sludge and deposits. I'm wondering if it would even be safe to run a really high detergent engine flush treatements through the engine for a couple of oil changes, over a short period of time? Would it possibly cause any problems like plugging up the oil pump screen, or causing deposits to break loose and plug up drain passages?

[fenixus]

doesn't look bad to me. If you look through the oil filter opening, do you see any shiny parts?

a few years back, I could see only black darkness through oil filter opening on my 5s-fe. didn't pull the valve cover to check, but I decided to do sea foam treatment (all 3 points of entry). after that and a year of running on fully synthetic oils (instead of cheap dino from local shop cheapest oil change deals i was using for 3 years) this is how under my valve cover looks like (4 cylinder sludge-maker gen4):



Also the oil filter opening is finally cleaner and I can actually see metal shiny parts through there

This how my bottom side of valve cover still looks like, you can still see dark streaks that are a left over after some minor/moderate sludging from past:



Safest route is to start using either Castrol GTX HM oil if you prefer dino oils or go the full synthetic route using e.g. Mobil1 Full Synthetic HM or Penzoil Platinum (it has strong cleaners in it) and start using best oil filters you can get.

Another option is sea foam, it's fairly short process, can be completed in 1 day if you are willing to change oil & filter in morning, then travel ca. 100 miles and then change oil again.

I would personally do sea foam on your engine. get a pair of the best oil filters you can, a jug of dino oil (any decent brand will do, even SuperTech from walmart is OK) and another jug of fully synthetic oil for later

drain old oil, remove filter, install new filter (e.g. PureOne long version for your engine, or Mobil1 filter or WIX or long version OEM), pour the new dino oil, add 1/3 can of sea foam into oil, another 1/3 of can into the gas tank and last 1/3 you have to suck into engine (idling) via the brake booster port on intake manifold, do it slowly or it will shut down (just restart it if it happens).

once all has been sucked up into engine shut it down for 15 minutes and restart. take it for a drive (might wanna check for any leaks before you drive away).

after 100 miles / 160Km change the oil and filter again using the best oil you can get (and prefer) and it will be shiny clean soon.

just my 2 cents.

EDIT:
also start running shorter OCI, e.g. 1,500 miles for any dino or 2,500-3,000 miles for any reputable full synthetic.
most dino oils loose their properties and start becoming black and dirty after 1,200 miles or so (not my conclusion, based on 73sport posts).
I would assume in those engine synthetics do the same in double miles (after 2,500 miles or so).

the key to success is using the high end oil filters. don't worry, it will go away over time (or very quickly with sea foam).

[peshwa]

This is how my baby's head looked like when I opened for resealing at 175K or so. Thats the first time I opened it and was pleasantly surprised to find very little sludge deposits. I admit I had neglected it until I found TN
A pre-oil change 1/2 can of seafoam will certainly help IMHO. Just dont run the car for more than 10 miles or so with it. I one month oil changes in quick succession with Pennzoil HM 10W-30+Purolator/WIX filters. Before I opened up the VC while I was running Mobil 1 HM 10W30. It leaked like no tomorrow from all sides....M1 seems to have very certainly helped too.

[fenixus]

that red color is amazing I almost like it

seems both you and me did similar things to our engines to clean 'em up a bit

Originally Posted by peshwa

This is how my baby's head looked like when I opened for resealing at 175K or so. Thats the first time I opened it and was pleasantly surprised to find very little sludge deposits. I admit I had neglected it until I found TN
A pre-oil change 1/2 can of seafoam will certainly help IMHO. Just dont run the car for more than 10 miles or so with it. I one month oil changes in quick succession with Pennzoil HM 10W-30+Purolator/WIX filters. Before I opened up the VC while I was running Mobil 1 HM 10W30. It leaked like no tomorrow from all sides....M1 seems to have very certainly helped too.

[71Corolla]

I'd say fenixus has it covered.

Seeing those pics reminds me why I don't use dino oil. Not all engines that use conventional oil end up with sludge and varnish like that. But the climate here amplifies the problem, large temperature swings, combine that with short trips and you have an engine that doesn't get warn enough to burn off the moisture and gases, and it turns into a toxic soup that sticks to everything. And of course if dino oil gets too hot, it turns to mostly carbon and makes a big mess of the engine.

The safest way is to just switch to a full synthetic going forward, it will slowly clean the engine. I like Seafoam myself had very good luck with it. I personally leave it in there for 1-2 tank fulls, it blackens up the oil pretty good which means it did its job.

[pmesfun]

Yeah, do what they said. Castrol GTX HM cleans up really well, or quick OCIs with Synthetic will clean up even faster. Seafoam will help clean those intake runners and your valvetrain. Just don't leave it in there for too long like I did.

[Silent Runner]

Thank guys, I'm going to go the seafoam route and do a couple a couple of maybe one or two tank oil changes to get things started. I was surprised at the varnish and sludge, since my dad has regularly done a couple of oil changes a year, with Mobil 1, since the dealer finished servicing it through the warrantee period. It was originally his company lease vehicle, so it got every service schedule up to that point. I guess all those 5km trips to the mall and back, and lots of other short city trips in our climate might require a more rigorous oil change program.

Incidently, I did take the opportunity to use a couple of cans of throttle body cleaner to wash and scrub amazing amounts of gunk out of the plenum and associated parts, and make them nice and silver.

[fenixus]

remember about using the best oil filters you can get, to be on safe side, change them (and oil) before and right after sea foam treatment is done. also make sure to shorten whatever oil you running OCI to half time & distance, at least for a year or so ... and keep using the best filters you can get

consider switching to fully synthetic (HM preferably) oils
... or at least synthetic blends. either of them will provide better stability and durability at any given time than regular/conventional dino oil.

your car will love you for that

Originally Posted by Silent Runner

Thank guys, I'm going to go the seafoam route and do a couple a couple of maybe one or two tank oil changes to get things started. I was surprised at the varnish and sludge, since my dad has regularly done a couple of oil changes a year, with Mobil 1, since the dealer finished servicing it through the warrantee period. It was originally his company lease vehicle, so it got every service schedule up to that point. I guess all those 5km trips to the mall and back, and lots of other short city trips in our climate might require a more rigorous oil change program.

Incidently, I did take the opportunity to use a couple of cans of throttle body cleaner to wash and scrub amazing amounts of gunk out of the plenum and associated parts, and make them nice and silver.

[Silent Runner]

Interesting thing is, I've had the car for just over two years now and have done three oil changes a year with Mobil 1, 10w-30. If it's still this dirty, how bad must it have been before..

That it, I'm going to check it in to the recommended recovery program, monitor it closely, and hope it does better than Charly Sheen.

[fenixus]

LMAO on Charlie Sheen, yeah we don't wanna follow his path LOL!

change oil to HM version as they carry seal/gasket conditioners and cleaning package, M1 also makes HM versions (both dino or FS) or try Castrol GTX HM (dino).
Penzoil Platinum (FS) also has strong cleaning package, it all helps to clean the thing thing additionally over time. sea foam should clear the path for coming "recovery program"

good luck with your patient

[pmesfun]

Hey, there is nothing wrong with "WINNING".