is it a good idea to use 12-point 1/2'' sockets around engine?

[fenixus]

recently was looking for any cheap and working 1/2'' metric socket set and noticed that all I found (shallow, not deep wall) are 12-point sockets, so I picked up this from local HFT:

http://www.harborfreight.com/16-piec...set-67988.html



$29.99
Description of Pittsburgh 67988
High visibility markings for easier, faster socket selection. Comes with ratchet driver, 14" breaker bar and 5" extension.

• Triple chrome plated
• Rugged chrome vanadium construction
• ANSI certified

Sizes: 11mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 22mm, 23mm, 24mm, 25mm, 26mm, 27mm and 28mm Drive: 1/2" Points: 12
The brand is Pittsburgh Pro.

is it a good idea to use 12-point 1/2'' sockets around engine?

Last time I was doing 5s-fe timing job I could barely do that with 3/8'' socket set and with cascaded (daisy chained) combo wrenches. cannot imagine doing it again without 1/2'' ratchet (longer) and shallow sockets (also longer than 3/8'' ones).

thanks for opinions.

[LynchburgCSI]

I've always used 12-point sockets on engine work. 90% of my set are 12 point, just because. I'm curious to see if anyone says this is bad.

[71Corolla]

12 point sockets are fine for low torque/small bolts, but not good enough for the higher torque requirements of larger bolts. If I had a choice between a set of 12 point or 6 point, Id take the 6 point every time.

[fenixus]

Originally Posted by 71Corolla

12 point sockets are fine for low torque/small bolts, but not good enough for the higher torque requirements of larger bolts. If I had a choice between a set of 12 point or 6 point, Id take the 6 point every time.

thanks, exactly my point. I tried but couldn't find 6-points sockets in shallow version. only deep walls are 6-point. I prefer 6pt actually, no risk of rounding at higher torques, IMO.

anyways, seems I will be fine with 12pt set. I only need to buy a single 15mm one (Monroe strut mounts) and it should be good

hoping it fits the purpose around 5s-fe engine timing and power steering area.

[Mr.Nutcase]

I would stay away from the 12 pt sockets.
Only use them when need, ie headbolts on Tercels, Corolla, or the 12mm Ford driveshaft bolts, or like honda uses 12pt in their engines/clutches
more info in from http://www.garagejournal.com/
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=34696

Originally Posted by Adam McLaughlin

AGREED. Six point is the way to go. Use 6 point on a 6 point bolt, and a 12 point socket on a 12 point bolt.

Otherwise, you get a 12 point socket on a 6 point head and when you go to really put some torque on something, the socket slides off, you slip and smash your finger on something hard and get a blood blister under your nail, requiring you to drill the nail to let the pressure off, meanwhile screaming like a 6 year old girl....

( Don't ask! )

I think I can count on one hand the number of 12 point sockets that I have. 3/8" deep by 3/8" drive for the TH-400s center support bolt is just one of the few, and the only one that I can think of right now.

Adam

[fenixus]

Originally Posted by Mr.Nutcase

I would stay away from the 12 pt sockets.
Only use them when need, ie headbolts on Tercels, Corolla, or the 12mm Ford driveshaft bolts, or like honda uses 12pt in their engines/clutches
more info in from http://www.garagejournal.com/
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=34696

thanks for your opinion.

I will keep them anyways and see how it works for me.

for high torque stuff I have a set of 1/2'' metric deep wall impact sockets (6-point of course), but I need shallow sockets too and for some reason it's almost impossible to find an inexpensive (or actually any) 6-point socket set with shallow design.

Amazon

Amazon

[JohnGD]

That's a versatile set (I have an earlier version with rubber cushion breaker bar handle), but now comes with a slightly shorter 14" breaker bar. It's also missing a 21mm for the lug nuts. Just pick from HF's individual socket rack. I think it's $1.99 each for the standard size ones, $2.99 for deep sockets.

The 6-point is supposed to have more contact area and less of a chance to round the bolt head. The sides of the 6-point socket are actually not flat but curved to allow for higher torque application. But IME I prefer the 12-point because it's easier in tight places.

I use 1/2" more often than the 3/8" (only when I need more clearance). I'd say go for it. Wait for a sale or get a 20% off coupon that shows up in AAA or car magazines.

Originally Posted by fenixus

recently was looking for any cheap and working 1/2'' metric socket set and noticed that all I found (shallow, not deep wall) are 12-point sockets, so I picked up this from local HFT:

http://www.harborfreight.com/16-piec...set-67988.html



$29.99
Description of Pittsburgh 67988
High visibility markings for easier, faster socket selection. Comes with ratchet driver, 14" breaker bar and 5" extension.

• Triple chrome plated
• Rugged chrome vanadium construction
• ANSI certified

Sizes: 11mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 22mm, 23mm, 24mm, 25mm, 26mm, 27mm and 28mm Drive: 1/2" Points: 12
The brand is Pittsburgh Pro.

is it a good idea to use 12-point 1/2'' sockets around engine?

Last time I was doing 5s-fe timing job I could barely do that with 3/8'' socket set and with cascaded (daisy chained) combo wrenches. cannot imagine doing it again without 1/2'' ratchet (longer) and shallow sockets (also longer than 3/8'' ones).

thanks for opinions.

[Mr.Nutcase]

Originally Posted by fenixus

thanks for your opinion.

I will keep them anyways and see how it works for me.

for high torque stuff I have a set of 1/2'' metric deep wall impact sockets (6-point of course), but I need shallow sockets too and for some reason it's almost impossible to find an inexpensive (or actually any) 6-point socket set with shallow design.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000256S5Y/ref=pe_54110_19229490_pe_vfe_t1

Gearwrench has some sets, I bought some a set at sears a few years ago on sale...
This is the set I have, I bought on sale, it wa 19.99, added a Ratchet that bought from swapmeet/flee market


http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...1&blockType=G1
I would wait for good deal...
oh since you are buying from HF, dont forget the 20% coupon......

I bought tools online, check Amazon, Tooltopia.com,

If I were to start 1/2 set, I would buy that set from HF, and buy a 6pt set of sockets
Dont forget a 1/2 to 3/8 socket adapter

[fenixus]

thanks JohnGD

I actually bought them already yesterday hehe
though I made a decision to pick it up while being there so I paid regular $29.99 price ... probably the only item I bought from them at full price haha

for lug nuts I use the deep wall socket from the other set I linked (I have those too since a long time).
since strut mounts have protruding studs (even longer in rears) I think I will just keep using the deep wall 15mm socket on those bolts. I was in need of having 1/2'' ratchet and shallow sockets for it.

planning to tighten the p/s belt on wife's 5s-fe this Sunday ... and not really eager to do that with daisy chained combo wrenches
maybe this time I will be able to tighten it at 100lbs finally instead of 60lbs

Originally Posted by JohnGD

That's a versatile set (I have an earlier version with rubber cushion breaker bar handle), but now comes with a slightly shorter 14" breaker bar. It's also missing a 21mm for the lug nuts. Just pick from HF's individual socket rack. I think it's $1.99 each for the standard size ones, $2.99 for deep sockets.

The 6-point is supposed to have more contact area and less of a chance to round the bolt head. The sides of the 6-point socket are actually not flat but curved to allow for higher torque application. But IME I prefer the 12-point because it's easier in tight places.

I use 1/2" more often than the 3/8" (only when I need more clearance). I'd say go for it. Wait for a sale or get a 20% off coupon that shows up in AAA or car magazines.

[BMR]

IMHO, it's not a huge diff. Like JohnGD said, the 12 pnt are nicer in tight places because they go onto the hex nut/bolt easier. On the other hand, the 6 pnt style are less apt to round off the hex on a stubborn fastener.

I have some of each in my toolbox, and I pay no attention at all to what I first grab. *IF* I start having trouble loosening a rusty stuck bolt, I switch to a 6 pointer if I've got one.

[fenixus]

had a chance to test them up to 32ft-lbs (14mm) on drain plug for oil pan and they work great, I like them. especially that ratchet is bigger than 3/8'' so it makes things easier.

[ajkalian]

I prefer using the 6 point sockets unless the swing space is limited. But the ratchet usually has many more "points" if you will. Some ratchets have up to 70 teeth, more common 50-60 so if space is tight, I put the socket on the nut and then turn the ratchet to engage the socket. But sometimes it is easier to get the 12 point socket in tight places. Which is why I have both 6 and 12 point socket sets.

I'm not sure why Harbor Freight doesn't have regular depth 6 point sockets, go figure.

[fenixus]

cool man, you seem to have every possible socket (among smaller sizes) out there

I realized today that I have no 15mm deep wall socket LOL
good thing I have an adapter so I can still use 3/8'' sockets from Duralast set (6-point) with 1/2'' ratchet

I wouldn't use 12-point socket on problematic bolts (e.g. differential fill plug), but for lower torque stuff it's all right, no harm what so ever.

[JohnGD]

Are the Monroe nuts SAE? I thought they were.

[fenixus]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

Are the Monroe nuts SAE? I thought they were.

I doubt it. they seem to fit metric socket perfectly, it's not like 14mm barely fits and 15mm is loose, no no.
only thing they are different than stock sizes, and they differ between models and even sides too!

i4:
a) front driver side mount nuts: 15mm nuts
b) front pass side mount nuts: 14mm nuts

v6:
both front sides are 15mm nuts on mounts.

not sure why they did it like that.


... what would be an SAE equivalent to 14 or 15mm? I may try them on and compare if they fit better than metric ones.